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I pulled my steering cylinder and steering control valve last week to clean it up and replace the hoses and a couple of bushings. The hoses were all bad and it had been leaking. Put it all back on and now I see where the control valve is leaking. Right on top by the ball joint. I haven't tested the steering yet so I am sure I need to purge it some how to get all the air out. Once I do that, will it stop leaking there or do I need to replace the seals (if there is one up there). It looks like I have to pull the "steel strap" that goes around the control valve, it this correct? Don't really want to spen the money to buy a new one, I would rather over haul it.
....I see where the control valve is leaking. Right on top by the ball joint.....will it stop leaking there or do I need to replace the seals....Don't really want to spen the money to buy a new one, I would rather over haul it.
That was me too. Then one day I had a garage floor full of power steering fluid and an impossible-to-turn steering wheel. I had previously tried to just replace the seal for the ball stud. Obviously that didn't work out so well.
I ended up replacing the control valve (spent $70) and do not yet have any power steering leaks.
There is a $15 rebuild kit and you don't even have to remove the whole valve. You are not going to stop that leak any other way. Either rebuild or get a new (rebuilt) valve.
Thankyou. I will use that document. If the overhaul does not work out, I guess I will get to buy a new one from ZIP. I already bought the overhaul parts awhile ago from them.
That's a good paper, but you don't have to get into it that far just to stop a leak. Simply remove the lines, the adjuster nut, and the two bolts holding the valve half together. Remove the valve, leaving the rest on the car, and kit it. The other stuff requires very little service and has no relationship to the leak. The simple valve kit is available at parts stores. You might have to order it.
If you know that your existing control valve has worked (even though it leaked), I would recommend that you rebuild the one you have. It is a fairly easy process if you are handy, at all. New seals to prevent leakage and a new ballstud gasket. Since you have already cleaned up your control valve, it's a pretty simple job, once you have it out. $20 for the kit and use the available documentation (also see Jim_Shea's steering system papers) from Willcox, etc. and you should be in business. I'm not against giving business to CF vendors, but why risk getting a 'bumb' rebuild unit when you know that yours already works.
I pulled my steering cylinder and steering control valve last week to clean it up and replace the hoses and a couple of bushings. The hoses were all bad and it had been leaking. Put it all back on and now I see where the control valve is leaking. Right on top by the ball joint. I haven't tested the steering yet so I am sure I need to purge it some how to get all the air out. Once I do that, will it stop leaking there or do I need to replace the seals (if there is one up there). It looks like I have to pull the "steel strap" that goes around the control valve, it this correct? Don't really want to spen the money to buy a new one, I would rather over haul it.
Hey dgood since your in Virginia Beach and I'm in Falls Church, VA. Why don't you drive up this weekend and I'll give you my old system -steering box just to get it out of my way. I converted to Steeroids and don't have any use for it. Fairly new steering cylinder and control valve they didn't leak anyway. Just a thought?
SGM,
I will be up that way for christmas, could you save it till then and I will pick it up? My e-mail is daniel.good@navy.mil. I could use a new cylinder to, it is getting pretty pitted.
SGM,
I will be up that way for christmas, could you save it till then and I will pick it up? My e-mail is daniel.good@navy.mil. I could use a new cylinder to, it is getting pretty pitted.
dgood sure I'll save it for you. I'll send you a e-mail address where I'm at My pleasure.
If you know that your existing control valve has worked (even though it leaked), I would recommend that you rebuild the one you have. It is a fairly easy process if you are handy, at all. New seals to prevent leakage and a new ballstud gasket. Since you have already cleaned up your control valve, it's a pretty simple job, once you have it out. $20 for the kit and use the available documentation (also see Jim_Shea's steering system papers) from Willcox, etc. and you should be in business. I'm not against giving business to CF vendors, but why risk getting a 'bumb' rebuild unit when you know that yours already works.
I am with you either rebuild your existing valve or buy a NEW one-Zip and other vendors sell NEW valves and rebuilt valves. Just want to clear up the misconception that the only valves available from vendors are rebuilt-you can buy a brand NEW valve.
All you have to do to get it out of the Pittman arm is to drive some kind of 'wedge' in between the bolt flanges (to spread them a bit) after removing the retaining bolt. Then you can unscrew it easily by hand.
rebuilt the control valve and the directions speedreed8 posted worked correctly. the last step of the directions and the service manual said disconnect the cylinder so you can balance the valve before trying to steer. started to car after finishing all the work on it (1 month of work) and forgot to disconnect the cylinder. car started and the steering went all the way to the left and fluid shot out from the control valve onto the floor. Guess I will get another rebuild kit and start over. this time I will follow all the directions. shazaam
Speedreed8, on step 35, do i tighten it a lot (beat it) or just real tight?
before i started the car i filled the pump up with power steering fluid and it did not leak like it did before. thought I did everything right.....car runs good though, just cant steer. I am really getting used to spending my weekends on my back under my car. No leaks yet!