dizzy (literally) install, did I do this right?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
If you set the oil pump correctly and advance the rotor just slightly as 78 silver 78 says, you'll just drop the distributor in and don't have to mess with bumping the starter while pushing down on dist assembly.
I'm sure that a million other people can probably do this bump-the-starter method without issue, but with my luck I'd shred the dist gear or the cam and I'd rather not do that.
I also know that it's obvious whether or not you engaged the oil pump correctly.
When you pull the distributor, nine times out of ten, you screw up the alignment of the oil pump and when you stab the distributor again, you'll end up off a tooth or more. That's why you have to re-align the pump.
I'm sure that a million other people can probably do this bump-the-starter method without issue, but with my luck I'd shred the dist gear or the cam and I'd rather not do that.
I also know that it's obvious whether or not you engaged the oil pump correctly.
When you pull the distributor, nine times out of ten, you screw up the alignment of the oil pump and when you stab the distributor again, you'll end up off a tooth or more. That's why you have to re-align the pump.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
If you set the oil pump correctly and advance the rotor just slightly as 78 silver 78 says, you'll just drop the distributor in and don't have to mess with bumping the starter while pushing down on dist assembly.
I'm sure that a million other people can probably do this bump-the-starter method without issue, but with my luck I'd shred the dist gear or the cam and I'd rather not do that.
I'm sure that a million other people can probably do this bump-the-starter method without issue, but with my luck I'd shred the dist gear or the cam and I'd rather not do that.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Well in the immortal words of Hank Hill
I used the 7 o'clock post for #1 instead of the 5 o'clock and now it's damn near straight. It was my understanding that this was the non-HEI orientation, but I guess this distributor is setup that way anywho?
Oh well, I know it was just an aesthetic thing, but I sure feel better now.
thanks everyone
Originally Posted by Hank Hill
Damnit Damnit Damnit
I used the 7 o'clock post for #1 instead of the 5 o'clock and now it's damn near straight. It was my understanding that this was the non-HEI orientation, but I guess this distributor is setup that way anywho?
Oh well, I know it was just an aesthetic thing, but I sure feel better now.
thanks everyone
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 688
Likes: 1
From: Stevens Point WI
Sometimes seeing is better then typing it, hope this helps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHX1y...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHX1y...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7...eature=related
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
I'm not trying to be a smart azz but, there have been a few times here where someone has posted a similar statement and the answer was to install the rotor!
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
Not that this thread keeps going and going..........
BUT.....I just wanted to add what no one has stated:
The distributer gear is spiraled. Therefore, when everyone says to line up the rotor to #1. In reality, you need to line it up even further to make up for the spiral effect.(The distributor rotates as it goes in)
When you remove the distributor, as it goes up, it is spiralling the pump shaft ever so slightly. This is why most people are scratching their heads when they go to put it back in.
BUT.....I just wanted to add what no one has stated:
The distributer gear is spiraled. Therefore, when everyone says to line up the rotor to #1. In reality, you need to line it up even further to make up for the spiral effect.(The distributor rotates as it goes in)
When you remove the distributor, as it goes up, it is spiralling the pump shaft ever so slightly. This is why most people are scratching their heads when they go to put it back in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
Likes: 1
From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
I don't want to seem ungrateful for any advice given, but the thing about the oil pump is it's incredibly obvious when you haven't engaged it correctly. As I mentioned, the dizzy flange will stand off the surface of the manifold by about 3/8" if it's not engaged correctly. There's really no way for the oil pump to skew the rotor position because you either engage it or not.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Bottom line is simply do not let the oil pump shaft position dictate where you stab the dizzy.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
I still think I'm gonna use the screwdriver method. Maybe I'll try the other one when I'm feeling a bit more adventurous...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 1
From: Greensboro NC
Yup, I got a ton of retard...
At least that's what the wife says.....
Checked the timing after everything was buttoned up, adjusted the timing "by ear", lo and behold I was amazed to find I was close to perfection.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
Likes: 1
From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Sorry to disagree, but the rotor orientation should be determined by the cam gear not the oil pump. I can certainly understand how someone might stab and stab and stab the rotor in different orientations trying to line it up with the oil pump, but that's really putting the cart before the horse. The way I did it was to mark the #1 post position on the distributor body and then make another mark 2.25" CCW from that position. Align the rotor with the second mark, then stab it in. Chances are you won't be lined up with the oil pump, BUT you are already meshed with the cam gear so the rotor alignment has been established. At this point just turn over the engine and at some point the dizzy will drop the rest of the way down. Now just reset yourself to 0-12* BTDC and theoretically you will be pointing at post #1.
Bottom line is simply do not let the oil pump shaft position dictate where you stab the dizzy.
Bottom line is simply do not let the oil pump shaft position dictate where you stab the dizzy.
I generally set TDC before removing the distributor, make my marks, then pull it. If the pump twisted on me a bit, I use a long screwdriver to get it right and drop the distributer. Most of the time, my timing is damn close before fine tuning. I just prefer not to turn it over with stuff capable of flopping around.
Bottom line is both methods work.