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Removing pitman arm from control valve

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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 06:29 PM
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Default Removing pitman arm from control valve

Hello everybody,

My mission today was to get the steering box out, I started at 1pm so you see how it's going.

Anyhow, I need to save my control valve so I don't want to use a fork, a search mentioned people using a puller but unfortunately the posts were old enough where the pictures of the puller did not show.
Plus - it doesn't look like there is room to get a puller in there, I have the wheel all the way to the right but it still looks tight. Even if I wanted to try a fork it seem too tight for that as well.

Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Frank
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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Get something like this.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uller/_/N-2654

The one that I have has 2 arms but it looks like this one might be better. You can probably rent one for free. You should be able to pop the control valve stud off without damaging the boot.



Rick B.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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Hello Frank. I got mine off with a small pitman arm puller but it was tight. Also, I had it off before so it was not stuck. I am referring to the pitman arm to control valve connection. The puller I used came from Harbor Freight and is not big enough to remove pitman arm from the steering box. When I first removed it I used a fork. It scarred up the valve a little but I was able to smooth it out when I rebuilt the valve. mike...

Last edited by mds3013; Jan 30, 2011 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Thanks for the replies,

After looking again, the autozone puller might work, BUT the stud is under the frame so it will be really tight I think.

I have a good control valve that I replaced already a couple years ago so I'm worried about messing up the taper with the fork. I wasn't planning on taking it out if I can avoid it.

Tomorrow I will try and get a puller like is shown above, I think that's the only chance a puller will work. I'm giving up for today.

Thanks,
Frank
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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I hang a weight on the end of the control valve,then with a long flat punch I strike the side of the pitman arm(deforms the taper momentarily)-just like removing a tie rod end.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by myoriginal77
Thanks for the replies,

After looking again, the autozone puller might work, BUT the stud is under the frame so it will be really tight I think.

I have a good control valve that I replaced already a couple years ago so I'm worried about messing up the taper with the fork. I wasn't planning on taking it out if I can avoid it.

Tomorrow I will try and get a puller like is shown above, I think that's the only chance a puller will work. I'm giving up for today.

Thanks,
Frank
Hey Frank, I went through this same deal a couple weeks ago with my 69. Bought a pickle, thought I was about to break something, then bought the Autozone puller and it worked like a charm. It was a little awkward getting it in there, but it did the trick. Good luck.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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If I remember correctly, you can disconnect the relay rod, then tap on it and wiggle to cause the control valve to drop out of the pitman arm.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
I hang a weight on the end of the control valve,then with a long flat punch I strike the side of the pitman arm(deforms the taper momentarily)-just like removing a tie rod end.
Thanks Roger - Interesting, I never heard of that technique, I will have to give it a try.

It's just one of these things that make the job interesting ....

Frank

http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/...VPitmanArm.jpg


Last edited by myoriginal77; Jan 31, 2011 at 12:12 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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OK,
I am back on this, we'll see what happens,

Frank
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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So far no luck,

Roger, I tried hanging about 10 pounds on the control valve with no luck. I can see how this should work but so far it has not budged. I'm thinking maybe my flat punch may not be wide enough so I'm looking for another one after lunch.

I did also get the u-shaped puller but the head of the stud is under the frame rail and I can't get the puller bolt over the top.

If I wasn't trying to save the control valve I'd try the fork but for now I'll wait and try Roger's idea.

Frank
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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The pickle fork won't hurt the valve, but will likely tear up the boot and strap that holds the boot in place. You buy just those parts though, and they're cheap. I'm not sure if you can get them from a local parts store, but the vendors here have them.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by myoriginal77
So far no luck,

Roger, I tried hanging about 10 pounds on the control valve with no luck. I can see how this should work but so far it has not budged. I'm thinking maybe my flat punch may not be wide enough so I'm looking for another one after lunch.

I did also get the u-shaped puller but the head of the stud is under the frame rail and I can't get the puller bolt over the top.

If I wasn't trying to save the control valve I'd try the fork but for now I'll wait and try Roger's idea.

Frank
When I used the puller to remove mine, the valve was not under the frame. Try turning the wheel to the right some to move the valve to a spot with a little more clearance above the stud.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mlub
When I used the puller to remove mine, the valve was not under the frame. Try turning the wheel to the right some to move the valve to a spot with a little more clearance above the stud.
Thanks, I have the wheel as far as it will go to the right and the stud is still under the frame rail.

When I get back out there I will check and see if there is a stop I can remove, unless someone knows here. I need about 2 inches.

I'm still going to try Roger's method but I'm looking for a wider flat punch.

Thanks,
Frank
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by myoriginal77
Thanks, I have the wheel as far as it will go to the right and the stud is still under the frame rail.

When I get back out there I will check and see if there is a stop I can remove, unless someone knows here. I need about 2 inches.

I'm still going to try Roger's method but I'm looking for a wider flat punch.

Thanks,
Frank
Oh, in the picture you posted above it looks like the wheel is all the way to the left
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mlub
Oh, in the picture you posted above it looks like the wheel is all the way to the left
No unfortunately it's to the right and as far as it can go. Going to the left places it under the frame brace so that doesn't help either.

I'll give it a go again tomorrow,

Thanks for the replies,

Frank
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 12:26 AM
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Default Another approach....

Hi,

You might want to try removing the pitman arm from the steering box, Then removing the relay rod with control valve still attached. At that point you can work on the control valve / pitman arm on the bench.


Joe
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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Nope - nothing - nada, will not budge,

I'm done for today, will rethink the plan for tuesday,

Wake today, funeral Monday;

We had a sudden death in the family - my wife's cousin, 54 years old, recently retired high school PE teacher, active - fit and all that. Autopsy revealed plaque (sp?) broke lose, blocked the heart, no chance of revival, his wife found him after the family dog alerted her (really) she 911'd and CPR'd immediately - Paramedics had no luck.

Get one of those heart scans, worth the $300, I did it last year,

Stuck pitman arm's aren't that important,

Frank
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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Frank,

Very sorry to hear of your loss. Certainly helps put things in perspective.

When you get back at it, seriously, the pickle fork and good sized hammer is the way to do it. You might spray a bit of PB Blaster or other rust penetrant on it and let is soak for a bit. It won't harm the control valve, but will tear the boot. You can replace that easily.
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