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Going to time the car this weekend, using the sticky above, I am unable to locate or read the tag that tells me what my initial timing should be.
It is a stock 1978 L-48, auto matic, federal car.
From Chiltons, 1978 L-82 is 12deg. btdc, L-48 6deg. btdc, and california is 8 deg. btdc.
Chiltons info is correct to the engine tag on my 77,however my initial timing is set to 14deg. so i can get 36 all in by 3000rpm.
Regards,
Sean
Initial timing does not mean crap. Find out what the total timing is and work from there. The stocks specs are for the birds. The car will run much better with the distributer curved for performance and the total timing about 34 to 36 degrees depending on the engine. On a stock motor 12 to 14 initial with a total of 36 all in by 2500 to 3000 rpm works the best. You will notice a difference in performance if the timing is setup correctly.
Initial timing does not mean crap. Find out what the total timing is and work from there. The stocks specs are for the birds. The car will run much better with the distributer curved for performance and the total timing about 34 to 36 degrees depending on the engine. On a stock motor 12 to 14 initial with a total of 36 all in by 2500 to 3000 rpm works the best. You will notice a difference in performance if the timing is setup correctly.
If you take no other advice from this Forum...
Just curious, if you are going to advance the timing according to the sticky, why do you need the stock spec?
You will need the factory spec when it comes time for smog.
Thats is the main reason, I need to smog it soon, and to have some sort of baseline and once I have the distreibutor curved I can always teak the initial timing.
If you need to pass emissions testing, you want to retard the spark as much as possible without causing the engine to stall, lean the idle jets as much as possible and reduce the idle RPM so that the engine just continues to run when in drive range (if an auto tranny). Don't leave those settings on the engine very long....just long enough to pass the smog tests.
When undergoing emissions testing (in neutral), my emission readings were lowest when the idle was set to the highest permissable (just under 1100 rpm) with the spark advance dialed back to ~ 4 or 6 degrees, and with stoichiometric A/F ratio.
The last time I smogged my 68 I had to set the initial at 4* BTDC, or he woulda failed me. I passed the sniffer and visual, but he was gonna fail me! Ha! He lent me a 9/16ths and his timing light when the boss wasn't looking.
More rpm means more exhaust. And, with hydrocarbons being a percentage of the exhaust, that means more of them, too. I find it hard to believe that a higher idle speed made less hydrocarbons. Now, if the equipment actually measures in ppm (a rate of hydrocarbon production), it might be possible that a higher rpm would generate a lower hydrocarbon rate. But, I think many of the states use devices performing 'gross' hydrocarbon detection. Thus, the fewer you produce, the better. If that's true (as I believe), lower idle rpm would be better.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 11, 2011 at 10:17 PM.
No matter if doing something with timing might improve emmissions, in California they will usually confirm that you are at factory spec before doing the test.The tech will also make sure all hoses are connected properly, including those that go to the air cleaner.