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Points Eliminator keeps failing

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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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From: Eudora KS
Default Points Eliminator keeps failing

Hello,
I'm at a loss? I have a 68 with a 1970 350. The engine has a bigger cam. and a holley 750... My question is: The optical Accell Points Eliminator Kit keeps failing. I'm on the second one in 3 months...I have power to the coil but when I pull a spark plug there is no spark. Some thing happened before and it was the Points Eliminator Kit......Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you!!
Alan

Last edited by opata; Feb 12, 2011 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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Have you removed the ballast resistor from the power line going to the Accel module? That resistor is to limit current to the points distributor. If you go to a 'pointless' [no pun intended] ignition system, that ballast resistor will probably prevent the new system from working right....or at all.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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From: Eudora KS
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Hello,
I believe it has no resistor...I see nothing on the wire. The P.O. Installed the optical eliminator. It ran great for the 2years I have owned it. 3 months ago it pooped out and was getting no spark. I replace the Points Eliminator Kit and it ran fin until today. Now I have no spark...which is the same thing as before. Thank you for the reply!!!
Alan
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Could be a bad coil that is causing your problems....
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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From: Eudora KS
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Hello,
Could that be blowing out the optical Points Eliminator? I have a MSD Blaster coil which I put on when I got the car two yrs ago. I checked the voltage to the Points Eliminator and It is 9.6v...I presume that is correct?
Thanks again!
Alan
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 05:05 PM
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Most of the aftermarket points eliminator units can be damaged by electronic spikes from things such as a bad spark plug wire, a bad diode in the alternator, the spikes from a battery charger or leaving the key on with the engine not running.

I hope this helps Henry @ olescarb
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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Hello,
Thanks for the info I ordered a HEI distributer and hopfully this will take care of any issues I'm having.
Thanks again!
Alan
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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I just purchased an accell kit (found out later i don't need) and the directions said to leave the ballast resistor wire in place unless you use the accell coil. This contradicts most points elimanater kits I have heard of and for an HEI, but it is what it is!
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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The Accel setup is the same as the Mallory unilite. You should be running the factory resistor wire AND a ballast resistor for the module. With the ing switched on but engine not running, you want to see a minimum of 6 volts. With the engine running, the voltage will increase with RPM. You want to be sure voltage to the module stays below 10 even at higher RPM.

I'm running the blasterII coil with mine. The coil should get reduced voltage from the original resistor wire only (no ballast resistor).

Also, make sure the brown ground wire from the module goes to a good ground. I run my ground to one of the rear bolt holes on the cylinder head.
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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Thanks for the replies! Ive been wanting to go with an HEI for a while and this pushed me to buying one. When I install the HEI does the above apply? Do I need a resistor? Is this what you mean when you say ballast resistor?
Thanks! Alan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-M...Q5fAccessories
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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I was surprised that Accel was offering a point eliminator kit that was exactly like the old Mallory Unilite system. Back in the late 70's early 80's when the Unilite was first offered it was a complete POS and quickly gained a reputation of bad reliability.

I myself won't trust an optical triggering system and stick with Hall effect systems like the Pertronix Ignitor.

Use an Ignitor II or III system and you won't have to worry about ballast resistors and other components that may also be failing. I don't think you can beat an Ignitor III system with a 0.32ohm coil, the spark is hot and the rev limiter is built in and easily adjustable.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by opata
Thanks for the replies! Ive been wanting to go with an HEI for a while and this pushed me to buying one. When I install the HEI does the above apply? Do I need a resistor? Is this what you mean when you say ballast resistor?
Thanks! Alan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-MSD-Ballast-Resistor-PN-8214-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5182c611ddQQ itemZ350086369757QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
When you go to the HEI, you will want 12V going to the coil. The best way is to put a terminal end on a wire and plug it into the IGN post on your fuse block. Run that wire out through the firewall and put a terminal on the other end to plug into the HEI.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 08:45 AM
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From: Eudora KS
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Great!
Thank you for the replies!
I should have the HEI in the mail by the end of the week. I'll let everyone know if it works Thanks again for the help!
Alan
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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I have another question? My current distributor does not have a vacuum advance? The PO didn't put on on?? Will I need one on the new HEI?
Thanks!
Alan
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:20 AM
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Street driven cars need vacuum advance.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by opata
Thanks for the replies! Ive been wanting to go with an HEI for a while and this pushed me to buying one. When I install the HEI does the above apply? Do I need a resistor? Is this what you mean when you say ballast resistor?
Thanks! Alan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-M...Q5fAccessories
opata, I noticed no-one has answered your question; the wire IS the ballast resistor. Notice this wire looks different to the others with a woven casing/insulator and has a striped indicator on it. If you measure with a multimeter you'll get less than 12V from this wire. Another post eludes to running direct to the fusebox and that works fine, or unwrap the wire loom and replace direct back to the firewall connector as I did then rewrap. The MSD instructions indicate to replace this wire if running the MSD pointless dizzy (as I am).
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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From: Eudora KS
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Hello,
Thanks for the info I looked and couldn't find a wire ballast resistor??? Do they sell them at auto stores I wonder? No biggie since I'm going with an HEI. Thank for the reply! I'll probably wire it the way you suggested and I think one of the wires for the optical unit is from the ing. switch (pink wire) Hope this takes care of the problem...since I'm nervous about driving it.....
Thanks!
Alan
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To Points Eliminator keeps failing

Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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The '68 C3 did have a rectangular ballast resistor mounted to the firewall. GM went to the 'built in resistance wire' in '69. If you have original wiring harness in your '68 car, it does NOT have a resistance wire built into it.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
I was surprised that Accel was offering a point eliminator kit that was exactly like the old Mallory Unilite system. Back in the late 70's early 80's when the Unilite was first offered it was a complete POS and quickly gained a reputation of bad reliability.

I myself won't trust an optical triggering system and stick with Hall effect systems like the Pertronix Ignitor.

Use an Ignitor II or III system and you won't have to worry about ballast resistors and other components that may also be failing. I don't think you can beat an Ignitor III system with a 0.32ohm coil, the spark is hot and the rev limiter is built in and easily adjustable.
Wow you almost talked me into getting rid of my points..if I would this system looks the best..thanks for the info..
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
The '68 C3 did have a rectangular ballast resistor mounted to the firewall. GM went to the 'built in resistance wire' in '69. If you have original wiring harness in your '68 car, it does NOT have a resistance wire built into it.
aha! And that's why it is necessary to pay attention to the model year...

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