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Can some one tell me howe to change a head light switch on an 80. I have removed the driver side AC vent to het a better look at it but I still can not figure it out.
Can some one tell me howe to change a head light switch on an 80. I have removed the driver side AC vent to het a better look at it but I still can not figure it out.
Thanks Joe.
Ostensibly there is a small (1/4") silver release button on the bottom of the headlight switch under the dash. There is a small spring on the shaft that keeps the button out. If you depress the silver button and pull out the headlight switch the headlight switch (**** and triangular shaft) is supposed to come out. This will allow you to unscrew the headlamp switch and remove it.
I say "supposed" because I have to "fiddle" with my switch to get it to release the shaft.
Page 8B-11 of the 1980 Shop Manual has a section on removing the switch.
Ostensibly there is a small (1/4") silver release button on the bottom of the headlight switch under the dash. There is a small spring on the shaft that keeps the button out. If you depress the silver button and pull out the headlight switch the headlight switch (**** and triangular shaft) is supposed to come out. This will allow you to unscrew the headlamp switch and remove it.
I say "supposed" because I have to "fiddle" with my switch to get it to release the shaft.
Page 8B-11 of the 1980 Shop Manual has a section on removing the switch.
Thank you for that info. I have the shop manual and the instructions say to remove the instrument cluster,disconect speedometer cableand electrical conecter. Remove the 2 IP door pillar screws. Is all that needed to get at the switch?
Mapman is bang on. No need to take the whole car apart, just the AC duct that goes under the colum, I think the switch has to be turn on before you push the small spring loaded button. Then just unscrew the nut on the inside of the car on the dash. Don't disconnect the wires till the switch is out,Ron
Ron, I hope that it is the switch, I blow the 7.5 fuse when I turn the **** for the dash lights. I have looked in the parts catalogs and they show a switch with a restate I think that the restat is the dash lights. Let me know if I am wrong. !!!
Nope you are right , when you get yours out have a look at the "spring" it must be broken, and have a look at the wire connection make sure none are burnt, when I did mine the spring was broken and the interior lights would not work and the dash lights flickered. Is that all that you have having issues with, are all the gauges OK . Ron
Ron, thanks for the info. All my gauges are working with the exception of the fuel guage. Wen I fill it up tit only goes to half full, I think it has something to do with the sender in the tank. Some day I'll pull it out and replace it. All other electrical works good.
I have never had a car that it so hard to work on. By the way how do you post a photo with your car.
"Some" parts of the car are quite simple....some other not so much !
Use a photo hosting site (I use photobucket) and then you use the link they provide for each picture and paste that link into your post and it shows up....
I just finished it myself, after I disassembled the old switch you can see that the switch needs to be fully pulled out BEFORE you push the little silver button. It will come right out if you do. I took the instrument cluster out -- PIA but the switch is pretty easy to get to when you do
I have had mine out a few times. You need to do it once to get good at it. For your first time I would remove the lense over the tach/speedo cluster. Loosen off the left side of the interior panel. Remove the screws that hold the interior panel in the door area. Gives you enough pry room to reach the harness a vaccim lines. I see you already dropped the vent....The button to release the shaft in easiest to reach from below.
Ron, thanks for the info. All my gauges are working with the exception of the fuel guage. Wen I fill it up tit only goes to half full, I think it has something to do with the sender in the tank. Some day I'll pull it out and replace it. All other electrical works good.
Easy to check with an ohm-meter to see if the sender is giving the correct readings...mind you, as long as the last half of the gauge works (the important half!) why bother replacing it? I say this, yet I replaced mine, and probably doubled my fuel flow due to a 40YO filthy strain sock on the pickup.
I usually remove the widnshield trim, and then loosen and lift up the dash pad. The switch sits right under the dash pad. I can then get to everything needed to change it out.
I usually remove the widnshield trim, and then loosen and lift up the dash pad. The switch sits right under the dash pad. I can then get to everything needed to change it out.
I never thought of that. Great idea....may even be easier.
Make sure you hook up the vaccum lines the right way cause your headlights won't go up, or if you start you car and hear a hissss the lines are off.Ron
I have another question, the switch is out. The coil looks good but the ceramic that houses the coil is cracked, would that be the cause for no dash lihkts ????
I usually remove the widnshield trim, and then loosen and lift up the dash pad. The switch sits right under the dash pad. I can then get to everything needed to change it out.
I have another question, the switch is out. The coil looks good but the ceramic that houses the coil is cracked, would that be the cause for no dash lihkts ????
Good question. I would say yes. The power supply to the coil goes throught the ceramic. If its breaks the supply of power i would say yes. But is it just your speedo tach lights not working or the center cluster too? It should be all if there is no power supply. Lastly if you turn the *** all the way does the dome light go on?
Plug in a new one and see.
Or with the old one plugged in see if there is power to the coil