New roller cam recomendations?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Trust the name that's been around longer than most.
http://www.crower.com/products/camsh...rcle-4127.html
Eddie
http://www.crower.com/products/camsh...rcle-4127.html
Eddie
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 133
Likes: 5
I think I might be replacing my roller cam (and maybe upgrading it) since I wiped out the fuel pump lobe. Im looking to keep this as low-buck as possible, but Im not opposed to buying quality parts. Unfortunately that means no solid roller upgrades. 
Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.
I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.
Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel
Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out
Thanks
-Chris
Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.
I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.
Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel
Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out
Thanks
-Chris
i know this is a old thread so sorry about typing in it but I want to run that exact cam 12-423-8 in my new 383 stroker engine 10.5:1 compression and I was wondering if you got enough vaccum from the cam to comfortably use your power breaks and headlights?? I’m worried it’s too big of a cam and my headlights and power breaks won’t work well
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
They make composite fuel pump pushrods made by a few mfrs.
Youd hold it and think "this light cheap thing is supposed to be good?"
Not a trace of wear on the end, billet steel cam core.
It would be pretty tough to make the springs in the pump float with that.
I may have a std hi perf rod and a bronze tip..if I can find em they are yours for the asking .
Youd hold it and think "this light cheap thing is supposed to be good?"
Not a trace of wear on the end, billet steel cam core.
It would be pretty tough to make the springs in the pump float with that.
I may have a std hi perf rod and a bronze tip..if I can find em they are yours for the asking .
Last edited by cv67; May 25, 2022 at 10:27 PM.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
i know this is a old thread so sorry about typing in it but I want to run that exact cam 12-423-8 in my new 383 stroker engine 10.5:1 compression and I was wondering if you got enough vaccum from the cam to comfortably use your power breaks and headlights?? I’m worried it’s too big of a cam and my headlights and power breaks won’t work well
Jebby
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 133
Likes: 5
Pro
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 505
Likes: 230
The cam works great in my setup, 388 with 11.3:1 compression, brodix ik 180 heads with a little clean up and a valve job, doug's 1-7/8 side pipes, 1.6 roller rockers, and a couple of Edelbrock 500's on top. I'm running a 700r4 with a 3k stall and 3.70 gears. It's really fun to drive. I'm not sure on the HP, I'd guess close to 450 at the crank on an engine dyno, desktop dyno says 477 with pretty accurate head flow numbers. I don't have enough head flow to make power above ~5500 RPM, so with more head flow it would make more power.
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Verdad Gallardo
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 133
Likes: 5
The cam works great in my setup, 388 with 11.3:1 compression, brodix ik 180 heads with a little clean up and a valve job, doug's 1-7/8 side pipes, 1.6 roller rockers, and a couple of Edelbrock 500's on top. I'm running a 700r4 with a 3k stall and 3.70 gears. It's really fun to drive. I'm not sure on the HP, I'd guess close to 450 at the crank on an engine dyno, desktop dyno says 477 with pretty accurate head flow numbers. I don't have enough head flow to make power above ~5500 RPM, so with more head flow it would make more power.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 505
Likes: 230
-that’s a sweet set up, I would only have 10.1:1 compression ratio in my 383 that’s why I’m worried if that cam will give me enough vaccum to run power break’s and have my headlights still come up. But I want to go with that big of a cam because I want to be up in the 450hp range. Any idea if you think I’ll get enough vaccum?
I'm at 3500' elevation and with a edelbrock dual plane I was getting 14"->15" of vacuum at idle and the brakes were fine. That's probably as big of a cam I would run on a street only car with a 383. It has a decent enough idle and low end it's not too crazy to cruise around.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,079
Likes: 4,431
From: Marlton NJ
That's 230 degree duration, on the xr282, at .050" lift on a hydraulic. That is the generally accepted max intake duration for a respectable street cam, that still has some vacuum, still idles OK, and still pulls to 6500 rpm. On a solid you can add 10 degree duration "number" because of the valve lash, and then you get 240 degree duration, which is basically both the LT-1 SBC cam and the L71/72/LS6 BBC cam, all of which are very respectable street cams. They should all make around 13-15" vacuum, good enough for vette stuff. More cam duration quickly kills the vac level to problem levels. And makes the idle rougher. You can tweak it a little bit one way or another with idle rpm, advance/retard and lobe center.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 571
Likes: 101
From: Texas
I think I might be replacing my roller cam (and maybe upgrading it) since I wiped out the fuel pump lobe. Im looking to keep this as low-buck as possible, but Im not opposed to buying quality parts. Unfortunately that means no solid roller upgrades.
Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.
I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.
Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel
Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out
Thanks
-Chris
Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.
I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.
Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel
Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out
Thanks
-Chris
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Machine shops, mfrs sometimes have sets of good pieces laying around. Maybe an unpaid for item, returned etc. Same with good blocks heads etc. THey usually dont keep junk laying around.
Edit:Heres some from Summit racing for $390 probably someone elses sold under their name. Steel cores are ideal you wont burn up a FP lobe. I paid Isky 350 for a SR on a good core. Specify the cam gear, you dont want a bronze or billet one for sure!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...BoCC9EQAvD_BwE
Google search turned up Jegs selling Lunati brand for $396
Thats not bad really?! Not bad at all , the "real good" brands run 1000 plus all day
Cam is a few hundred, spring pkg arent too much for decent ones I think its doable if youre comparing it to cost of Hydraulic stuff. Burn up your visa eat ramen for a month and go for it!!!
Good quality pushrods are a must btw
Edit:Heres some from Summit racing for $390 probably someone elses sold under their name. Steel cores are ideal you wont burn up a FP lobe. I paid Isky 350 for a SR on a good core. Specify the cam gear, you dont want a bronze or billet one for sure!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...BoCC9EQAvD_BwE
Google search turned up Jegs selling Lunati brand for $396
Thats not bad really?! Not bad at all , the "real good" brands run 1000 plus all day
Cam is a few hundred, spring pkg arent too much for decent ones I think its doable if youre comparing it to cost of Hydraulic stuff. Burn up your visa eat ramen for a month and go for it!!!
Good quality pushrods are a must btw
Last edited by cv67; May 28, 2022 at 02:32 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,025
Likes: 1,120
From: North tonawanda NY
Machine shops, mfrs sometimes have sets of good pieces laying around. Maybe an unpaid for item, returned etc. Same with good blocks heads etc. THey usually dont keep junk laying around.
Edit:Heres some from Summit racing for $390 probably someone elses sold under their name. Steel cores are ideal you wont burn up a FP lobe. I paid Isky 350 for a SR on a good core. Specify the cam gear, you dont want a bronze or billet one for sure!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...BoCC9EQAvD_BwE
Google search turned up Jegs selling Lunati brand for $396
Thats not bad really?! Not bad at all , the "real good" brands run 1000 plus all day
Cam is a few hundred, spring pkg arent too much for decent ones I think its doable if youre comparing it to cost of Hydraulic stuff. Burn up your visa eat ramen for a month and go for it!!!
Good quality pushrods are a must btw
Edit:Heres some from Summit racing for $390 probably someone elses sold under their name. Steel cores are ideal you wont burn up a FP lobe. I paid Isky 350 for a SR on a good core. Specify the cam gear, you dont want a bronze or billet one for sure!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...BoCC9EQAvD_BwE
Google search turned up Jegs selling Lunati brand for $396
Thats not bad really?! Not bad at all , the "real good" brands run 1000 plus all day
Cam is a few hundred, spring pkg arent too much for decent ones I think its doable if youre comparing it to cost of Hydraulic stuff. Burn up your visa eat ramen for a month and go for it!!!
Good quality pushrods are a must btw
OP, what transmission and rear gears do you have? if an auto do you have a high rpm stall converter installed? all things to consider before going with a cam that will give you high rpm hp at the cost of HP and torque at lower rpms.. I upgraded to a xe270hr last year and almost went with the 276 but was worried it would be a dog on the street with the 3.08 gears and factory th400 stall... now that im swapping in a 2004r with a lower first gear and 3.55 gears i kinda wish I went with the bigger 276 cam. Since you have the 383 the 276 would behave more like the 270 I have in my 10:1, 355 and would be what id go with regardless.
I used these (now backordered) retro lifters myself since I was on a tight budget... $130 for all the lifters with shipping. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/en...ve+lifter,5548 I bought the cam new on ebay for $285 as well as the howards 7.144" rods I needed, cam button as well as the bronze tipped fuel rod... Its only been a year but I have the heads and intake off now to swap heads and the lifters have held up fine.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 29, 2022 at 09:19 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Bronze tipped fuel pump rods are made for racing using billet steel cams. The tips don't last very long and mushroom making them very difficult to remove. You should take it out and throw it away if you still can.
Howards Cams 94475 Ultra Lite Polymer Fuel Pump Pushrod (speedwaymotors.com)
Howards Cams 94475 Ultra Lite Polymer Fuel Pump Pushrod (speedwaymotors.com)
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,025
Likes: 1,120
From: North tonawanda NY
Bronze tipped fuel pump rods are made for racing using billet steel cams. The tips don't last very long and mushroom making them very difficult to remove. You should take it out and throw it away if you still can.
Howards Cams 94475 Ultra Lite Polymer Fuel Pump Pushrod (speedwaymotors.com)
Howards Cams 94475 Ultra Lite Polymer Fuel Pump Pushrod (speedwaymotors.com)
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I had the motor with the bronze tip fuel pump rod out of the car because of refresh time maybe 5000 miles. I couldn't even pull out the fuel pump rod with vise grips. I was actually worried about what to do. Then I remembered the front of the block pump rod holder bolt where you install a shorter one for driving. I used a small width chisel to remove the smeared bronze overhang and managed to pull it out. I was pissed for ever using bronze in the first place. Some place was selling roller tipped rods and I came across the polymer as a better solution and have been using them for the past 25 years on all my builds
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
I got lucky on mine. The fuel pump failed very shortly after putting in a roller cam with a bronze tipped pump rod. It was already damaged after maybe 500 miles. Figured that was not going to last and discovered the polymer pump rod also. Recently had the pump out after over 12,000 miles and the rod still looks new.
The roller tipped pump rod looks heavy, prone to failure with moving parts, and float if you rev high enough. Also very expensive.
The roller tipped pump rod looks heavy, prone to failure with moving parts, and float if you rev high enough. Also very expensive.
