I think I might be replacing my roller cam (and maybe upgrading it) since I wiped out the fuel pump lobe. Im looking to keep this as low-buck as possible, but Im not opposed to buying quality parts. Unfortunately that means no solid roller upgrades.

Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.

I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.

Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel

Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out

Thanks
-Chris

 

Interested in the recommendations that you get.

 

We had an engine a while back where the customer used the GM hot cam as that really seem to work pretty good and it wasn't much money.

You need a fuel pump push rod with bronze tip and Comp Cams has them!!

 

If you're happy with how it ran and you want to keep it low buck you could just switch to an electric fuel pump.

 

Carter electric pumps work great for this, Under $100. Remove mechanical pump, install cover plate. Fab new bracket, install new electric in Mechanical place. I recommend picking up a relay kit also. $30. I have installed many of these as booster pumps for some EFI engines. Heck some OEM marine engines comes with these also. Al

 

i agree with alswagg, carter electric is the way to go.i installed a carter p4389 internally bypassed marine grade electric pump on my rear bumper support and it is very quiet compared to the holly that was there before.good luck.

 

So I wouldnt need a regulator or anything with the electric pump?
Are they reliable? Any problems with them? Part numbers?
Thanks guys

 

No regulator at all, buy the 7 psi version. These have been an OEM application on Many marine engines since the 90's. I generally paint the pumps black though. Pumps are better pushers than pullers. Locating at the rear of the car is good idea, also much cooler Al

 

I have a carter 72 gph but not very happy.noisy and i replaced it recently because the old one failed ( installed by PO ) : lost internal regulation and started making a ciclic noise.

I don't think it's a good solution for a car that is driven often slowly because the pump works always at full speed even if the engine doesn't require that amount of gas.I think that elect pumps require the rpm regulation , but xpensive.

Now my question : is the bronze tip pushrod required for roller cams only? what about flat tappet cams running hi ZDDP oils?
i want to go for a mech pump : already bought an Edelbrock 110gph and this pushrod
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-135-8701/
is this pushrod ok for flat tappet cam?

i don't want to risk to flatten the cam

 

About change your camshaft:
I have a ZZ430 clone engine so i use a LT4 HOT cam kit (camshaft and roller rocker 1.6 ratio) + GMPP fast burn heads.
My idle is (too) soft !!! but the engine push hard when you need !!! a perfect sleeper !!!

About solid roller:
I would love to have this !! but as i understand it's for race engine because they dosen't like to run at idle (lubrification problems) ! Is it right ???

 

Your compression is pretty high if your figures are correct. If you have not had any issues with detonation and want to bump compression a little with a thinner gasket to get better quench I would look at this cam. Your AFR heads have a great Intake/Exhaust ratio and you probably don't need a dual pattern cam. This bumps your intake duration and opening point a little to allow more compression and leaves your exhaust where it is. It also gives you more lift= more flow. I would grind it on a 112 LSA to gain a little more bottom end and wider torque band. I would also upgrade to Beehive springs as they will allow more lift, rpm and a little more HP. Your springs have run with this cam their entire life. Increasing lift when these have been a set lift for their lifetime could result in spring fatigue or failure.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ory_Code=RFHRM

 

This is a bigger capacity than stock fuel pump. Capacity increase adds pressure to the lobe. I would use a roller tip pushrod. Expensive but worth it. No risks on this motor!

 

do you mean this ?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4609/

i found just this but for small block. or ok for big block too ?

i suppose there's something that doesn't allow the pushrod to rotate ( keeping the roller tip always in correct relation with the cam lobe).
so does this pushrod requires some machining of the block? if so the job is not that easy if the engine is already in the car...

 

this should work well for your set up and compression

crane cam 119611
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,500-5,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift 204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 270
Advertised Duration 260 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.429 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.452 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.429 int./0.452 exh.
Lobe Separation 112

 

Eeh... that's a truck cam...

 

Thanks for the info guys
I think Im going to try out the electric fuel pump. It would be over $200 cheaper compared to buying a new cam and springs. I already killed my budget on this motor rebuild

 

I have the Comp roller tip pushrod in mine, if you can put a roller on it I got it

 

Sorry Small block and big block use the same size pushrod. I have the roller tip also.The comp roller tip pushrod says not for use in big block. You have a standard cam core so the correct pushrod is the factory material not the bronze tip. There is a lightweight version available. The roller pushrod uses a slot with a pin that rides in it that threads through the hole you use to hold it in to assemble, Here is a link with a picture. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp-...mZ390289620380

 

That cam would detonate the pistons right out the bottom of the block with 10.9 to 1 compression. I am suprised the original cam didn't have some detonation issues. My recommendation was based on there being no detonation problems now.

 

good call Mako. i got my 6 and 1 mixed up ( was going on memory with the cam number) .....i meant to write 119661 and not 119611.

so here it is

http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24188