I did a search and got some good info but I am looking for a little more advice.

69 vette

1) Door would frequently get locked and key was unable to unlock. If I got in passenger side and giggled door lock **** back an forth it would eventually unlock.

2) I have the door panel off and noticed the unlock / lock know doesn't seem to rotate as far as the passenger side and the lock / unlock doesn't feel crisp.

3) Now the key cylinder on the door just has the key turning without out moving anything.

From my reading, I need to pull the door lock mechanism degrease and re lube, but does the key cylinder sound hooped now as well?

If I have to install a new key cylinder, is it possible to continue using the same key? My ignition key works the door locks as well.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Hello
Once you have the lock cylinder out look at the end part that pivots at the bottom. There is a tab, and I think a groove that will stop the travel. On my 72 the end piece( call it lever) was worn so much that it would go past the point where it was supposed to stop. So it could not unlock the door because the tab did not stop the lever, and the key would keep turning in the cylinder barrel.

Once you have the door cylinder lock out you will see this part to check if it is worn. I bought new cylinders from NAPA for under $25. They do use a different key from the ignition, but that is ok with me.

kdf

 

If the outside door handle is hanging down the lock won't work well.

 

I have a very similar problem with my 71, except it happens when I intentionally lock the door. Then I can't unlock it with either the key or the inside ****. I have to do the same thing you do. I'm planning on taking it apart.

 

I will take photos, notes and any bs (likely) I encounter so you can learn from mistakes.

 

i had the same thing happen last week, and this is one of my next projects. Keep us posted

 

i sent you a PM with this. Hope it helps.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-not-open.html

 

I had a helluv a time with my 82. The rods that move the lock, cylinder and latch all have to be clipped in correctly clocked the right way and even then you still need to bend and tweek to get everything to work right
My advice is pull the door panel and get a few small lights and take your time seeing how everything works together.

 

I took my door apart and discover what the cause of my unlocking problem.

The handle lever pivot was bone dry and sticking partly open. It was holding the handle rod and release lever down.



This doesn't allow the release lever on the latch to return to the correct position. If it's pushing against the next lever, it won't unlock. I tested it on the bench and it's repeatable. Also, the handle rod was bent and missing the clip. This just added to the binding. I ordered a new handle rod and it should be here next week.

 

Hi K,
You asked about using the same key.
If you need to buy a new cylinder you can take it (before you install it) and your original key to a locksmith; he can re-key the new cylinder it to use your original key.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Clean everything then put white lithium grease (WLG) at every moving/wearing surface. Also, remove and clean the interior linkage rods. Those rubber 'anti-rattle' gizmos get gummed up and won't let the rods move through them easily. If you clean them with lacquer thinner, Scotch-Brite them a bit, then wipe the rod surface with WLG, the rods will easily move through those rubber cushions.

I just changed my door lock cylinders [both doors] on Tuesday. What a PITA. The worst part is trying to get the retainer clip off and then BACK ONTO the cylinders. Geez, there is no way to leverage anything to get any force onto that retainer without damaging the window glass!!! I finally put a 2-1/2" metal (or wood) block against the side of the vertical window guide, then used a crowbar leveraged against it to force the retainer back in place. Worst part of the whole process.

I feel (or, felt) your pain!!! just the other day. Good luck with it.

P.S. The cylinder retainers and outer door gaskets that come with the new cylinders are garbage. (Or, at least they were with mine.) Be careful when you remove things so you can clean, save, and reuse the originals...unless they are totally toast. Clear plastic cylinder gaskets when the originals were black rubber???? What's up with that?

 

I am having the very same problem on my 73. Big problem is how do I get the door panel off with the door locked shut?

 

Call a locksmith?

 

you see this part right here, the door lock pawl...well this pawl can lean over for 2 reasons and they are if your door lock barrell is not being held firm with the retainer or over time the 30 degree angle that it was when it was new has increased just from use.

you see the top hole(the elongated oval) this is where the problem is...lets say for example when looked at straight on this hole is 1/4 wide. ok now the more you lean it over the hole size decreases and the shaft that sits in this hole binds and will not allow the door lock mechanism to function.

to test my theory remove this part and i bet your door lock will engage and disengage all day long .

 

go through the other door, remove your seat put your window down and get at it..it still comes off.