I'm going to finally tear into the driver's side door and fix my power door locks on the 82. I have a few questions.

1. Are there actuators on both sides (pass & driver)? The passenger side will lock and unlock without resistance manually and with the key. It will not lock/unlock using the switch. The switch has power.

2. Is the actuator usually the culprit? Here is what the driver's side does. The lock will not move manually by pushing or pulling the lock button. I can lock/unlock from the outside with the key. The switch has power and will activate the alarm but will not lock/unlock.

3. I'm going to use the tech article from Zip Products for troubleshooting. If the actuator tests good, where else should I look for the problem?

Thanks for any and all help.

 

Cleaning and freeing up the mechanism , checking the ground on the passenger door and replacing both switches works most of the time for me.

 

Other times the connector that mounts to the switch fall apart. You may need to purchase new switch connectors, just splice into factory harness and your good to go.

Just get your hands dirty and you'll find the problem very quickly.

Good Luck

 

You can take the actuator out of the door then reconnect the harness to it and see if it moves when you hit the switch. If it moves it works! If it moves slow replace it or check your wires. If it moves really fast like it should then try taking the door lock out and cleaning/greasing it. My locks would work occasionally, and if i hit the switch 5 or 6 times the door would lock/unlock. I cleaned the lock out and greased it up good and everything works great now. Then again I haven't been able to fix the locks on my 80 in 5 years. Good Luck!!

 

Hey Tally

I may summarize what others have contibuted but a power lock mechanism is an electromechanical device with linkage (mechanical) and switches (electrical) so you have three systems of sorts you're troubleshooting. Could be mechanical (linkage hung up); could be electrical (wiring, frayed wires) or the actuator. When I redid my 78, switch wire was frayed and hanging on by a single strand.

The actuator has a plunger that operates the linkage. The rubber boot is now about 30 years old and subject to the elements if it was a well driven vehicle. Boots dry out, moisture penetrates the plunger and it doesn't respond to the electrical impulse. And yes...actuator on each side that operates the linkage.

Could be either the plunger end of the actuator or the wiring that connects switch to the actuator. The linkage sounds like it is performing its mechanical function.



The driver's side sounds like linkage has gummed up. Once you've removed the panel, use brake cleaner fluid and the straw to target the linkage joints and clean them up. Afterward, get some silicone dielectric grease to relube the linkage. But this could also be an actuator and you can't tell until you're into the panel. As someone described, once you get the panel off, you can see the plunger operate by applying power (switch) and seeing if the plunger works. Don't forget to unhook it from the linkage to isolate plunger from linkage.

Its a good Corvette project and quite satisfying once you see those door locks "pop" after a repair. When I did mine, I ended up replacing two actuators, one switch and one wire repair. I also cleaned both linkage sets and relubed. If the Vette isn't a daily driver, you can let it sit once you're into the door panels to determine if you'll need actuators. But if one side is bad, I would do both while you're in there to avoid a revisit a year from now. The link below is to an article from Corvette Enthusiast on power door lock repair and has some nice pictures to help illustrate what I described above. Keep us posted on your progress.

Power Door Lock Repair

 

Thanks everyone for the tips and answers. My plan is to tear into this weekend. It's not a daily driver so I have the luxury of time to get in there and work it as well as waiting for parts if need be. I'll keep everyone posted on progress. Thanks again.

 

I just went through mine last month. same problems. i changed the actuators (weak) the switches and the plug pigtails. cleaned and lubed the linkage and door latches. also installed a keyless entry. everything works great now.
DAve

 

Sounds like two separate problems. The power lock system is in series. If one of the switches do not work neither power lock will work via switch.

The fact that you can not push or pull the door lock button....I assume you mean the round manual push/pull one....it some what suggests another problem maybe.

You could start with a new switch. It maybe one or the other or both. Or it could be the connection to one or the other. I don't know how much you are prepared to spend. Buying one and trying it on both sides.


Jim

 

The passenger side will push/pull just fine. The driver's side won't budge. The wiring to the switch and the pigtail on the passenger side looks good. I've had that panel off to adjust the window. I have not had the driver's side off yet. I do know I can activate the alarm if I set the driver's side lock switch to the lock position even though the door does not lock.