intake gaskets AGAIN? geesh... how?
now ive followed directions carefully with "the right stuff" in front and back china walls as well as light smear top and bottom of gasket at the water areas. i also used permatex white paste thread sealant on all the bolts. and tourqued them at 30 lbs in the order they were supposed to be.
1st time i didnt research or follow the directions well i guess (my bad) but ive been using the basic blue felpro gaskets (ms903142) from napa both times and to no avail. should i switch over to the 1256 gaskets instead? what out of all my reading am i missing and what happend to the embossed aluminum original inatke gaskets that came on these cars to begin with can i still get those at my local gm dealer? what am i missing here..... 3 times a charm?
If this is the case, your best solution is to dry fit the parts with new gaskets in place but without being bolted. Carefully use some feeler stock to check the amount of any gaps at the valley ends or on either side at the intake runners. If significant gaps are present, you need thicker (or thinner) gaskets, as necessary, to resolve that problem. Most folks just throw silicone sealant at it. Silicone sealant and hot motor oil are not the best of "friends". Gaskets are much better at sealing those areas. Good gaskets can absorb some amount of difference in clearances, but I'm thinking less than a .010" gap on dry-fit setup.
i've heard of guys using the rtv along the lower edge of the gaskets also to avoid the mid bolt oil leaks. if there is a next time i will try the dry method with possible a high powered light through the dist. hole to see if any light shows gaps. thoughts on the 1256 gaskets anyone?











