1974 - Nervous Head Light Door
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
1974 - Nervous Head Light Door
When driving with the headlights on the driver's side door is noticeably nervous/twitchy. Just a twitch, not a great deal of up-down movement. There is obviously some rubber bushing or similar that requires replacement; probably one of those $10.00 parts that costs $50.00 with handling, shipping, brokerage fees to Canada, and taxes.
Be that as it may, does anyone know the offending part? And going back some time here on the Forum I seem to recall that there was a Bubba toilet seat rubber washer solution: split the washer and push it on. Does anyone recall that?
Be that as it may, does anyone know the offending part? And going back some time here on the Forum I seem to recall that there was a Bubba toilet seat rubber washer solution: split the washer and push it on. Does anyone recall that?
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
I don't recall the thread but it would seem that solution would work. There's a bolt with a locknut on it that you can adjust to take up the slack in the headlight movement; the head of the bold contacts the framework to limit the travel. It's a real bugger to get at, I would assume the rubber washer would be placed on the head of the bolt. Mine doesn't have any cushion at all on it.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Paul,
I believe the #10 in Pete's diagram is the stop for the CLOSED position.
The stop for the OPEN position is a bolt mounted on the 6"-8" long flat arm that bolts to the side of the headlight door framework.
In my 71 AIM it's UPC 12, Sheet A3, Headlight Support and Housing Installation. Items #5, #6, and #7. 1 Sheet after Pete's.
I bet you can find a hardware rubber bumper to fit the flat head of the bolt and then snug it up.
Regards,
Alan
I believe the #10 in Pete's diagram is the stop for the CLOSED position.
The stop for the OPEN position is a bolt mounted on the 6"-8" long flat arm that bolts to the side of the headlight door framework.
In my 71 AIM it's UPC 12, Sheet A3, Headlight Support and Housing Installation. Items #5, #6, and #7. 1 Sheet after Pete's.
I bet you can find a hardware rubber bumper to fit the flat head of the bolt and then snug it up.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
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From: Ontario
Thanks for the help everyone. This is on my "to-do" list for April and your suggestions will be very helpful.
Between a new computer and printer I have not sorted out the 1974 AIM CD view and print so I can't come back with an illustration. Things used to work but with a Windows 7 64-bit operating system and new bells-and-whistles there sure are things to sort out. But I am almost there....exit stage right for a beer.
Between a new computer and printer I have not sorted out the 1974 AIM CD view and print so I can't come back with an illustration. Things used to work but with a Windows 7 64-bit operating system and new bells-and-whistles there sure are things to sort out. But I am almost there....exit stage right for a beer.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Pete,
I had to go and lay on the floor of the garage and take a look to be sure. That's not getting any easier either.
I've pretty much given up on just trying to remember things.
Regards,
Alan
I had to go and lay on the floor of the garage and take a look to be sure. That's not getting any easier either.
I've pretty much given up on just trying to remember things.
Regards,
Alan
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
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From: Ontario
I can see that screw from underneath with the doors closed - just the lock nut, not the head. How do I get at it to adjust it? If this is a case of pulling the whole door out I will leave well enough alone. The doors fit very nicely with no paint scrapes. I do not drive very often at night and if I do it will be Bubba style: just jam a piece of rubber between the door and fender to keep that one twitchy side steady for the evening.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hoi Paul,
I'd think you can get some kind of access. I CERTAINLY agree to not take the whole door out.
You HAVE to be able to get to it because you can't make the adjustment till the door's in place.
On chrome cars you can reach up from below through the breathing holes in the front valance or take the grill out (4 screws) and reach through the hole.
Regards,
Alan
PS: 86 f today!!!!!
I'd think you can get some kind of access. I CERTAINLY agree to not take the whole door out.
You HAVE to be able to get to it because you can't make the adjustment till the door's in place.
On chrome cars you can reach up from below through the breathing holes in the front valance or take the grill out (4 screws) and reach through the hole.
Regards,
Alan
PS: 86 f today!!!!!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Hoi Paul,
I'd think you can get some kind of access. I CERTAINLY agree to not take the whole door out.
You HAVE to be able to get to it because you can't make the adjustment till the door's in place.
On chrome cars you can reach up from below through the breathing holes in the front valance or take the grill out (4 screws) and reach through the hole.
Regards,
Alan
PS: 86 f today!!!!!
I'd think you can get some kind of access. I CERTAINLY agree to not take the whole door out.
You HAVE to be able to get to it because you can't make the adjustment till the door's in place.
On chrome cars you can reach up from below through the breathing holes in the front valance or take the grill out (4 screws) and reach through the hole.
Regards,
Alan
PS: 86 f today!!!!!
. And more rain for the next four days.I'll have a good look at that adjustment screw in the coming days. I plan to try to get the differential plug off tomorrow but I hurt/sliced my hand yesterday replacing all the fan belts and my enthusiasm is muted. The Wife is laying down the law about the blood in the kitchen sink. I must keep band-aids in the garage from now on. And as a new hobby she enrolled me in a stamp-collecting club....? Square dancing may be next?
On the positive side the car is just shy of ready-to-roll for its 2011 debut in May. I have set the dwell and timing and it purrs as a SBC with points should.
Team Owner
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From: Massillon,Ohio USA
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
....my Orange '74 coupe has been doing this for years, but I rarely, rarely drive it at night so I never did anything about it.:bb
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
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From: Ontario
That pretty much echoes my sentiments but I have this urge "to get things right." It usually gets me in trouble: if it works fix it.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 25
From: Buena Vista Colorado
I can see that screw from underneath with the doors closed - just the lock nut, not the head. How do I get at it to adjust it?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
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From: Ontario
Did this on my '78 with the twitchy problem last week. Had to go in through the hood opening outboard of the the actuators with an open end wrench. 7/16" I think. Doors in the up position. Worked entirely by feel. Very little corrosion, but still had to use PB Blaster on the bolts as it's very hard to get any leverage. Removed the griil/turn signal assemblies and shot the Blaster using a red tube from a WD-40 can so it wouldn't go everywhere. Very tight area. Scraped knuckles a bit on some sharp edges.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
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From: Ontario
OK, I wimped out today and verged on a Bubba but perhaps not an exemplary version of his work. I was putting in some GE H5006 halogen sealed beams to replace some old Westinghouse units that were pitiful in lighting the night. That went fairly well with some persuasion (little, non-damaging) to get the various screws out but they are now in with anti-seize.
But before finishing I had a look at that #5 adjusting screw with locknut. It is almost impossible to reach and adjust (get wrenches on) but I could feel the slack/looseness to the plate it contacts and it was minor. But of course enough to give that head lamp door the jitters. Hmmmm. I cut two 1" square shims out of a margarine lid, doubled them up, and jammed them in under the #5 bolt end with black Goop adhesive/sealant. The door was now tight. I let the Goop set for three hours. The headlight doors move up and down freely and the loose one is now as tight as a ..... won't go there. Bubba I guess but it was a 25-cent solution and no one can see it.
BTW, the H5006 sealed beams are just fine. I have used them before and they are more-than-adequate for most drivers. No relays, problems with headlight switch, and inexpensive.
But before finishing I had a look at that #5 adjusting screw with locknut. It is almost impossible to reach and adjust (get wrenches on) but I could feel the slack/looseness to the plate it contacts and it was minor. But of course enough to give that head lamp door the jitters. Hmmmm. I cut two 1" square shims out of a margarine lid, doubled them up, and jammed them in under the #5 bolt end with black Goop adhesive/sealant. The door was now tight. I let the Goop set for three hours. The headlight doors move up and down freely and the loose one is now as tight as a ..... won't go there. Bubba I guess but it was a 25-cent solution and no one can see it.
BTW, the H5006 sealed beams are just fine. I have used them before and they are more-than-adequate for most drivers. No relays, problems with headlight switch, and inexpensive.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 25
From: Buena Vista Colorado
...H5006 sealed beams are just fine.
I like your bubba - especially the price - to get rid of the nervousness. Hey, better is the enemy of good enough!
