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I have a '74 and she sat for almost a year while I was working on other projects. The steering wheel was almost impossible to turn while pushing her back into the garage. It had a P/S fluid leak so I assumed all the P/S fluid leaked out. So, I Installed a new battery added some fluid and got her started. While idling I touched the steering wheel and it started turning lock to lock VIOLENTLY!! Until I turned off the engine.
I had the front up on jack stands, so I lowered the car, and tried it again. Same thing happened. I researched forums and found the bleed procedure, which I followed. With it back on jack stands, I "Removed the belt - turned the pump pulley backwards a few times. Turned the steering wheel lock to lock about 20 times (engine off). Then I started the engine and this time, I turned the ignition off, just before I touched the wheel. Same result.
I read in this forum about the steering turning to lock - in one direction or the other. but nothing about a poltergiest living inside my steering !!!
This thing appears possessed !! Anyone know what could be making this go violently from full lock on one side to full lock on the other side? It is so violent that I fear something will be damaged. I also read that you should have an assistant "hold the wheel tightly." No way.
Well, the 'correct' way to bleed the system is to have the front wheels in the air and the steering cylinder rod disconnected before trying the lock-to-lock turning (engine off, then engine on). Also, at each step, the fluid is supposed to be topped-off, since it will be lowering when air is burped out. Now, if all of that is unfamiliar to you, perhaps you should give it another try.
Sounds like the controll valve is buggerd up. When you turn the wheel the linkage moves this left and right directing the flow left or right. If frozen off center or the spool inside is rusted and wont self center you could have what you are talking about.
Well, the 'correct' way to bleed the system is to have the front wheels in the air and the steering cylinder rod disconnected before trying the lock-to-lock turning (engine off, then engine on). Also, at each step, the fluid is supposed to be topped-off, since it will be lowering when air is burped out. Now, if all of that is unfamiliar to you, perhaps you should give it another try.
Actually, you need the cylinder connected so you're moving it too, air can be in the cylinder as well as other parts of the system.
The system can be bled with the rod connected or disconnected from the reaction bracket. But, it needs to be disconnected for 'balancing' the control valve, anyway.
The system can be bled with the rod connected or disconnected from the reaction bracket. But, it needs to be disconnected for 'balancing' the control valve, anyway.
Your absolutley right on the balancing part!! On the other part, I'd agree you could bleed the system with the cylinder disconnected, but without it moving, couldn't air be trapped in it?
You only need to disconnect the assist cylinder from the frame when you are balancing the control valve.
From your description it sounds as if you have the hoses from the control valve to the assist cylinder installed backwards.
Note how the tubing from the hose assemblies criss-cross as they attach to the control valve. So it is quite easy to install the hose assemblies incorrectly.
Thanks everyone. I will check the lines first. If they are crossed...er not crossed..(Thanks for the picture Jim) well..correct, then I will probably need to replace or rebuild the control valve. It is probably the cause of the leak anyway, and since it sat outside (although the car was covered) it might be seized or have some rust.