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New engine valve lash setting

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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:36 PM
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Default New engine valve lash setting

Just finished building a new 350 engine and will soon be doing initial start up so I wanted to make sure I adjusted the valves correctly before I fire it up. It has a flat tappet hydraulic cam. I tighted the rockers down to zero lash or until each push rod was barley tight and did a 1/2 turn more. Is this the correct procedure. I have had conflicting suggestions like tightening one full turn after reaching zero lash.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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Default Good to go

You are good to go. I roll the pushrod between my thumb and forefinger as I tighten the adjusting nut untill it stops rolling and put it down 1/4 turn . After I have done all of them I tighten them all another 1/4 turn . Just my way !
Bill
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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You have to develop a feel for these things. You may have it wrong, I lash the valvetrain with the intake manifold off and look at lifter movement while spinning the pushrod, some brands of lifters have very little resistance some have more. What you are really trying to do is to minimize the plunger collapse into the lifter body for a high performance motor. If you have compressed the plunger too far into the lifter body the motor may not run at all or backfire from lash problems keeping the intake valve off the seat during combustion.
You have to remeber the oil pump pressurizes the lifter and it raises the pushrod up while running.
Here is a link to Lunati cams for adjusting the valvetrian: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...al/INST150.pdf
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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Thanks guys !!! That's what I did. The Lunati link verified everything also. It always pays to get more than one doctor's opinion.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 03:30 AM
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Instead of 'spinning', shake the pushrod up and down. You can feel the 'slack' in the valve train. As soon as that slack disappears, THAT is the zero lash point. Then turn it CW 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set the lifter in the center of travel.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BillyTz06
...I have had conflicting suggestions like tightening one full turn after reaching zero lash...
One full turn is likely to be too tight. I like 1/4 turn for start up, then tweak a little if I need to.

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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
You have to develop a feel for these things. You may have it wrong, I lash the valvetrain with the intake manifold off and look at lifter movement while spinning the pushrod, some brands of lifters have very little resistance some have more. What you are really trying to do is to minimize the plunger collapse into the lifter body for a high performance motor. If you have compressed the plunger too far into the lifter body the motor may not run at all or backfire from lash problems keeping the intake valve off the seat during combustion.
You have to remeber the oil pump pressurizes the lifter and it raises the pushrod up while running.
Here is a link to Lunati cams for adjusting the valvetrian: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...al/INST150.pdf
For a high performance application I think you would be running solid lifters !
Bill
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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When I did my Retro roller cam, I did the exact measurements, took my time... and found that it equaled out to 3/4 turn past 0 lash. Baby runs like a bat out of :-)
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Instead of 'spinning', shake the pushrod up and down. You can feel the 'slack' in the valve train. As soon as that slack disappears, THAT is the zero lash point. Then turn it CW 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set the lifter in the center of travel.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Instead of 'spinning', shake the pushrod up and down. You can feel the 'slack' in the valve train. As soon as that slack disappears, THAT is the zero lash point. Then turn it CW 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set the lifter in the center of travel.
Bingo!

I've seen situations where the pushrod ball fits so perfectly into the rocker cup that it would spin with the lifter plunger fully depressed. The rattle method is much more reliable, I actually go back and forth, looser and tighter with it until I'm absolutely sure I'm at zero, then tighten 1/2 turn. I think there are probably more burned valves in new engines from folks incorrectly adjusting using the spinning method than any other cause.
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