How do you know when to replace the distributor?

 

what symptoms are you experiencing?

 

Unless there is some major damage to the main body, there is no reason to scrap a distributor. All the parts are replaceable...from main shaft bushings to advance weights/springs. So you just need to disassemble it, determine was is worn beyond reuse, and buy replacement parts for the rebuild.

 

Usually after reading too many Hot Rod magazines that convince you that everything that GM installed was cr*p.

 

... and, sadly, happens all too often ... "60 bazillion volts coursing across unobtainium-tipped electrodes"

 

I guess the specific answer to the question you asked is that you "work on" your distributor when you know that the ignition system on the engine is not getting the job done. What does that mean? Well, when the spark signals are not getting to the spark plugs at the right time, or when they are not getting there at all, or when the spark is intermittant such that the 'feel' of the engine is hesitant or jerky as it accelerates.

Most often, when those are the kinds of symptoms seen, the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor cap/coil, the rotor, and the electronic ignition module inside the distributor (all expendible items with a finite life) are the usual items to go bad. If those items have been changed without success and the distributor is 30 years old and has never been refurbished, it is probably a good idea to remove it, disassemble it, and inspect the parts for excessive wear or gummed-up components.

Note: Many poor performance symptoms can be confusing and could be due to either bad ignition or air/fuel induction problems. There is some diagnostic work that may need to be done to determine the exact source(s) of poor performance. The usual "weekend warrior" approach [usually, anyway] is to replace all the expendible "stuff" that has some age on it until the problem goes away. Sometimes, however, an actual 'mechanic' is needed who can perform diagnotic testing to isolate the fault(s).

 

When you decide that replacing the small parts is no longer worth your time and the low cost of a replacement seems like the better option.

Really about all there is to it, it's a pretty simple ignition system.

 

I am getting a code 42 ESC. Have replaced the ignition module twice and still get it. Every so often, it goes away and then comes back.

 

I don't know what Code 42 is, but have you tried removing the connectors and ground wires from the computer, cleaning them all up, and reconnecting and trying again? Those contacts tarnish up with long periods of time...and the ground connections get rusty/corroded making power connections weak.

 

Hello
I found this infornmaiton about your code 42 on a different website. i cant vouch for its validity but it looks like good information.
kdf


CODE 42
Trouble Code 42 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) system.
During cranking, the timing is controlled by the ignition module while the ECM monitors the engine speed. When the engine speed exceeds 400 RPM, the ECM sends a BYPASS signal to the ignition module which switches the timing to ECM control. The ECM calculates what the timing should be then "tells" the ignition module via the EST circuit.
An open or ground in the EST circuit will stall the engine and set a Code 42. The engine can be re-started but it will run on ignition module timing.
The conditions for setting this code are:
• System in BYPASS mode but the ignition module is still controlling timing
- or -
• Engine speed > 600 RPM with no EST pulses (ECM controlled timing) going to the ignition module for 200 milliseconds.
Typical causes for this code include:
1) BYPASS line is open or grounded
2) EST line is open or grounded
3) PROM or CALPACK not seated properly in the ECM
4) Poor connections between ignition module and ECM
5) Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise)
6) Faulty or incorrect ignition module
7) Faulty ECM