My Personal Paint Thread
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Hi Bird,
I'm still watching too.
A whole lot of WORK showing in your pictures. This all should turn out REALLY well.
It's interesting to see what can go into a paint job once you get beyond the "I'll put Rust-o-lium on with a roller" school of thought.
I enjoy your pictures!
Regards,
Alan
I'm still watching too.
A whole lot of WORK showing in your pictures. This all should turn out REALLY well.
It's interesting to see what can go into a paint job once you get beyond the "I'll put Rust-o-lium on with a roller" school of thought.
I enjoy your pictures!
Regards,
Alan
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Yesterday I emptied the garage, put the Corvette in the middle of it,
Seam sealed the door hinges and jambs,
Jacked it up, removed the wheels, and commenced masking for 4 hours,
And piled about a 1/2 gallon of primer onto it...
...all at age 54, in 95 degree, 70% humidity weather, with thunder and spitting rain outside. I must have downed a gallon of water and sweated it all out. BUT the WHOLE car is now in primer, ready for final sanding (320). All that's left to purchase is some reducer and clearcoat; I picked up 3 quarts of Donnybrooke Green basecoat last week so we're getting close now...
Cheers!!
Seam sealed the door hinges and jambs,
Jacked it up, removed the wheels, and commenced masking for 4 hours,
And piled about a 1/2 gallon of primer onto it...
...all at age 54, in 95 degree, 70% humidity weather, with thunder and spitting rain outside. I must have downed a gallon of water and sweated it all out. BUT the WHOLE car is now in primer, ready for final sanding (320). All that's left to purchase is some reducer and clearcoat; I picked up 3 quarts of Donnybrooke Green basecoat last week so we're getting close now...
Cheers!!
1) Paint jambs and inner doors and then permanently secure them to the body; paint car (with doors secured); clear car and open doors during clear stage to hit the jambs and inner door... Issue: don't get clear on all the base near the hinges... You could get around this be shooting a little clear in the hinge area and inner door before bolting them back on...
2) Secure doors off the vehicle and ensure they are hanging like they would on the car... Paint/clear all pieces, and the "carefully" put back together...
Pros and cons to both... Plenty of opportunities for cuss words to fly with either method... I think you're adding a level of complexity that will cause you issues... Maybe not, but I know from installing/pulling the doors many, many times, one extra time of install/pull is asking for trouble...
Just MHO... I'm guessing the DBG is a metallic and you don't want the doors to look differently than the quarters/fenders??? Here's a picture from Dub's paint shop of him painting a DBG... He hangs the doors, and I've heard his work is top notch (and he's in the business)...
I know it will be hard to talk you out of doing it your way, just trying to save a step or two...
Your work is looking fantastic...
Rogman
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Actually Roger I am ALL EARS at this point; Ignatz also suggested the same method as you and I like that a lot. My biggest question is whether or not I can get even color shooting that metallic green. I've only shot one metallic car before (my son's 240SX) and I had a lot more issues with that than I'd be willing to tolerate with my Vette, so I want to have whatever process down before I start shooting color.
The last time I painted the Corvette I shot everything separate but it was a solid color...whatever pointers as far as gun settings, reduction, air pressure, etc. that anybody is willing to offer up would be very much welcome at this stage in the game. I plan to start laying color/clear in about three weeks.
The BIGGEST issue that I've had thus far shooting BC/CC systems is getting solvent pops and runs in the clear, and I would like to get four good coats of clear on this car.
Thanks Rog and anybody else who's willing to chime in, I definitely appreciate your advice!
The last time I painted the Corvette I shot everything separate but it was a solid color...whatever pointers as far as gun settings, reduction, air pressure, etc. that anybody is willing to offer up would be very much welcome at this stage in the game. I plan to start laying color/clear in about three weeks.
The BIGGEST issue that I've had thus far shooting BC/CC systems is getting solvent pops and runs in the clear, and I would like to get four good coats of clear on this car.
Thanks Rog and anybody else who's willing to chime in, I definitely appreciate your advice!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Summer's Over!!(??)
Got home from work today and for the first time since...maybe July it was below 90 degrees whan I arrived. I spent last Sunday afternoon sanding all the small parts, starting with the gas door, little grilles, etc., and working my way up to the doors and hood. Damn near killed myself again in the heat (95+). I ran out of steam about 10 minutes into sanding the hood, but got back at it this afternoon...
For the small parts I just went right at them with 320 dry paper, but for the doors and hood I started with 220 then went to 320 once I got the surface 'flat'. This Polyprimer is definitely NOT like the stuff you see on "Overhaulin'" where big piles of it just fall off as you run the block over it- it takes real WORK to block it down. It smells like bondo coming out of the paint gun, and it sands like it too. No big long boards, just a 6" long foam block. I did manage to sand all the way through the primer in a few spots, so I will go back and put a thin coat over those using primer thinned wayyyy down with acetone so it flows nice and smooth...
Needless to say, I've got red sanding dust EVERYWHERE now, so another major garage cleanup is in order once I get done with all the priming/sanding.
At this point, I'm also seriously considering painting/ clearcoating the wiper door, side grilles, rear valance, vent grilles, etc. BEFORE I do the rest of the car, just to get them out of the way and to lessen the workload once painting the main body/doors/hood begins...
Thoughts/comments? Don't be bashful...
For the small parts I just went right at them with 320 dry paper, but for the doors and hood I started with 220 then went to 320 once I got the surface 'flat'. This Polyprimer is definitely NOT like the stuff you see on "Overhaulin'" where big piles of it just fall off as you run the block over it- it takes real WORK to block it down. It smells like bondo coming out of the paint gun, and it sands like it too. No big long boards, just a 6" long foam block. I did manage to sand all the way through the primer in a few spots, so I will go back and put a thin coat over those using primer thinned wayyyy down with acetone so it flows nice and smooth...
Needless to say, I've got red sanding dust EVERYWHERE now, so another major garage cleanup is in order once I get done with all the priming/sanding.
At this point, I'm also seriously considering painting/ clearcoating the wiper door, side grilles, rear valance, vent grilles, etc. BEFORE I do the rest of the car, just to get them out of the way and to lessen the workload once painting the main body/doors/hood begins...
Thoughts/comments? Don't be bashful...
Last edited by birdsmith; Sep 25, 2012 at 11:11 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,345
Likes: 1,575
From: los altos hills california
It's just a hell of a lot of work. Sand, sand, sand. I am finishing up color sanding right now and things are looking great. It will be worth it.
I want to make a comment about plastic sheeting as I see you are using some. I strung it around my garage to keep overspray off. And I found that paint does not really adhere to it very well. So if you blast it with a spray gun little flakes come off and settle somewhere. Don't know what stuff you are using but you might want to be careful and check that any overspray is well attached. Paper is probably better.
And the weather up here in the bay area is way better. too bad about the heat.
I want to make a comment about plastic sheeting as I see you are using some. I strung it around my garage to keep overspray off. And I found that paint does not really adhere to it very well. So if you blast it with a spray gun little flakes come off and settle somewhere. Don't know what stuff you are using but you might want to be careful and check that any overspray is well attached. Paper is probably better.
And the weather up here in the bay area is way better. too bad about the heat.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 353
Likes: 3
From: cincinnati oh
Howdy all...those of you who have frequented this forum for awhile are by now familiar with me, but nobody's really seen my car because I pretty much hate screwing around with things like photobucket. Today after months of ruminating I finally decided to bite the proverbial bullet and start prepping my faithful ol' 1970 C3 for a long-overdue repaint. When I bought the car in 1997 from a little ol' lady it was Ontario Orange or a close facsimile thereof, and while it did catch my attention sitting in its owner's driveway with a "For Sale" sign in the window it wasn't exactly the color that I would have preferred.Therefore, after owning it for about three years and getting the major mechanical issues straightened out, I scuffed it down real good and squirted about six coats of yellow lacquer onto it. The previous orange color was a base/clear job whose clearcoat had begun to burn off by then so I figured it was due, and while the end result wasn't exactly show quality it was a huge improvement over what I had...it was a neat-looking color and it was shiny. Not long after that my job took me overseas for a couple years and the Vette wound up parked outside due to no garage space, which didn't do the fragile and brittle lacquer paint any favors, so while the car still photographed well and was a decent-looking 10-footer it had a number of nagging problems that needed to be corrected. Since lacquer is now all but illegal in the great state of California the only real option at this point is a complete repaint, and this time I really want to take my time and do the job right. Since it is a complete, numbers-matching car (with the exception of the 4-speed that I swapped in four years ago) I have decided that the only really correct way to go is back to the original color which was Donnybrooke Green. I normally work 10-hour days at my job but today I decided to come home after just eight hours. Having an extra two hours of energy left, I decided to strip the right-side roof panel...
Having read numerous posts in the past about scraping old paint off with razor blades, I decided to test that theory with a finely-sharpened putty knife. Now please, before all you razor blade advocates come out of the woodwork and scold me for not using the approved razor blades, understand that as an aircraft metal mechanic with 36 years' experience (I'm 53) I have honed my putty knife-sharpening skills to a literal razor's edge...suffice to say that after about an hour of diligently scraping away I had removed about a square foot of the top layer of paint. This clearly wasn't going quickly enough, so I loaded up my Milwaukee orbital disc sander with 100 grit and got to it. After about an hour I had gone through the topcoat, through the primer, the previous orange, through what appeared like another layer of red oxide primer, then a layer of silver(?) and finally one more layer of grey primer before I arrived at the glass underneath it all. I never did notice any Donnybrooke Green, so I'm now guessing that at least the right side roof panel was not native to this car...
Now, while I have painted a few cars in my by-now rather lengthy life, they have all been with either lacquer or the old DuPont Centari enamel which is no longer available either, using cheapo Harbor freight guns, etc.- your typical driveway jobs. Just last year I did do a respray of my son's Nissan 240SX in our garage, and while the end result WAS a vast improvement over the existing paint job there were a number of problems associated with the cheap equipment I was using and my very limited knowledge of modern base/clear paint systems. Making those sorts of mistakes on my cherished C3 would not be at all acceptable, so I have humbly come before the body and paint experts here on this forum in the hope of:
(1) Getting as many pointers as possible about safely removing ALL the previous layers of paint from the entire car without detroying or damaging anything, at minimum expense.
(2) Getting some useful advice on the best paint gun/guns that I can get my hands on for the most economical price. Understand I'm on a budget- I'm ALWAYS on a budget, and with a kid leaving for college in the fall that won't soon change
(3) Having obtained the requisite proper equipment, getting advice on the correct materials and every possible detail about their proper use, i.e., types and amounts of reducers to use, gun/line pressures, etc., etc.
(4) Obtainig ANY other useful advice that would help me in this process.
Please understand that the last thing I would like to see is for this thread to descend into an endless pi$$ing contest over who-knows- more-than-who, and also please understand that I am committed to doing this thing myself so if you're gonna come on here to try and discourage me from doing it or going any further because I made some mistake, don't bother. I am old and creaky but these kinds of projects are what keeps me alive, so I will value all the useful advice that any of you may provide. Attached are (2) before and (1) after pic of my stripped RH roof panel... I will try and keep posting pictures as the whole job progresses, mistakes included, so that hopefully anybody else willing to try it will learn...here goes!
Having read numerous posts in the past about scraping old paint off with razor blades, I decided to test that theory with a finely-sharpened putty knife. Now please, before all you razor blade advocates come out of the woodwork and scold me for not using the approved razor blades, understand that as an aircraft metal mechanic with 36 years' experience (I'm 53) I have honed my putty knife-sharpening skills to a literal razor's edge...suffice to say that after about an hour of diligently scraping away I had removed about a square foot of the top layer of paint. This clearly wasn't going quickly enough, so I loaded up my Milwaukee orbital disc sander with 100 grit and got to it. After about an hour I had gone through the topcoat, through the primer, the previous orange, through what appeared like another layer of red oxide primer, then a layer of silver(?) and finally one more layer of grey primer before I arrived at the glass underneath it all. I never did notice any Donnybrooke Green, so I'm now guessing that at least the right side roof panel was not native to this car...
Now, while I have painted a few cars in my by-now rather lengthy life, they have all been with either lacquer or the old DuPont Centari enamel which is no longer available either, using cheapo Harbor freight guns, etc.- your typical driveway jobs. Just last year I did do a respray of my son's Nissan 240SX in our garage, and while the end result WAS a vast improvement over the existing paint job there were a number of problems associated with the cheap equipment I was using and my very limited knowledge of modern base/clear paint systems. Making those sorts of mistakes on my cherished C3 would not be at all acceptable, so I have humbly come before the body and paint experts here on this forum in the hope of:
(1) Getting as many pointers as possible about safely removing ALL the previous layers of paint from the entire car without detroying or damaging anything, at minimum expense.
(2) Getting some useful advice on the best paint gun/guns that I can get my hands on for the most economical price. Understand I'm on a budget- I'm ALWAYS on a budget, and with a kid leaving for college in the fall that won't soon change
(3) Having obtained the requisite proper equipment, getting advice on the correct materials and every possible detail about their proper use, i.e., types and amounts of reducers to use, gun/line pressures, etc., etc.
(4) Obtainig ANY other useful advice that would help me in this process.
Please understand that the last thing I would like to see is for this thread to descend into an endless pi$$ing contest over who-knows- more-than-who, and also please understand that I am committed to doing this thing myself so if you're gonna come on here to try and discourage me from doing it or going any further because I made some mistake, don't bother. I am old and creaky but these kinds of projects are what keeps me alive, so I will value all the useful advice that any of you may provide. Attached are (2) before and (1) after pic of my stripped RH roof panel... I will try and keep posting pictures as the whole job progresses, mistakes included, so that hopefully anybody else willing to try it will learn...here goes!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
there is a new stripping system out there that uses crushed recycled bottles to strip paint. i saw it at a filming at my classic cars. they offer a special size to be used on fibreglass bodies, i asked. you might see if they can supply the advertisers name and see if you can find a local outlet or someone using his methods.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Finished With Sanding...Time to Paint!
Spent the last two days sanding the body, first the back half and the the front on Sunday...
Not very good pictures, I know, but it was late in the day and the shadows were getting long. After initially attempting to cut this primer with 320 grit paper I wound up going with 220 for starters and finishing with 320. I did manage to expose a few lumps and minor waves around the car, and went through the primer in a few spots which I touched up with some U-Pol red oxide primer (my paint guy assured me that it would be compatible with the Omni basecoat that I'm using).
As it was, when I shot the primer a couple weeks ago I reduced it about 15-20% with acetone, and in hindsight I should have gone about 50% (no kidding). I managed to get it on the car OK but there was just massive orange peel everywhere except in a few spots where I more or less cleaned the gun against the side of the car by shooting an acetone 'wash' through the gun onto the not-yet-cured primer. This seemed to level out the orange peel some. On the rest of the car, I nearly had to sand completely through the primer to get it 'flat' because the stuff was so thick coming out of the gun that it just kinda 'splattered' onto the car.(I used a 1.8mm tip) I would guess about 70% of it wound up on the floor...
Obviously, before I go and shoot the base/clear on the rest of the car another thorough garage cleaning will be in order!! There is red primer dust absolutely EVERYWHERE....
I've got today off as well, so I'm going to lay out a bunch of the small details (Wiper door, cowl vent grille, gas door, side grilles, headlight surrounds, rear vent grilles, and door jamb trim) and start laying some of the green paint. If anybody feels kind enough to chime in NOW would be the time!!
Thanks for watching!
Not very good pictures, I know, but it was late in the day and the shadows were getting long. After initially attempting to cut this primer with 320 grit paper I wound up going with 220 for starters and finishing with 320. I did manage to expose a few lumps and minor waves around the car, and went through the primer in a few spots which I touched up with some U-Pol red oxide primer (my paint guy assured me that it would be compatible with the Omni basecoat that I'm using).
As it was, when I shot the primer a couple weeks ago I reduced it about 15-20% with acetone, and in hindsight I should have gone about 50% (no kidding). I managed to get it on the car OK but there was just massive orange peel everywhere except in a few spots where I more or less cleaned the gun against the side of the car by shooting an acetone 'wash' through the gun onto the not-yet-cured primer. This seemed to level out the orange peel some. On the rest of the car, I nearly had to sand completely through the primer to get it 'flat' because the stuff was so thick coming out of the gun that it just kinda 'splattered' onto the car.(I used a 1.8mm tip) I would guess about 70% of it wound up on the floor...
Obviously, before I go and shoot the base/clear on the rest of the car another thorough garage cleaning will be in order!! There is red primer dust absolutely EVERYWHERE....
I've got today off as well, so I'm going to lay out a bunch of the small details (Wiper door, cowl vent grille, gas door, side grilles, headlight surrounds, rear vent grilles, and door jamb trim) and start laying some of the green paint. If anybody feels kind enough to chime in NOW would be the time!!
Thanks for watching!
Last edited by birdsmith; Oct 8, 2012 at 10:56 AM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Green paint, etc. ...
Finally got to shoot some color today, but not before I backed my Corvette into the side of the 'Other Car'. Now, I know that some of you are giggling, but I suddenly found myself with more fiberglass work to do...
.
Nothing TOO tragic there, but I did want to take the Mustang to a track day at the end of this month and now it looks like I've got some 'glass to fix beforehand. Ugh.
I DID manage to get all the small parts sprayed with base and clear, though, and with the exception of a couple light spots everything seems OK. I started on the small parts intentionally because I wanted to get a good feel for my new gun, get air pressures dialed in, etc., and everything seems OK...
.
Really, the worst part (Except for smashing the brake scoop on my track car!) was the lack of indoor lighting. I made sure to get three full coats of base on everything and pretty much did except for a couple thin spots on the headlight surrounds, but when I go to shoot the body, doors, and hood I've got to get some more light set up in there or I'll be asking for trouble. I'm pretty happy with what I've done so far, though. I got four good coats of clear on everything except the side grilles and parts that won't be color sanded and polished; no runs or fisheyes, etc., so all's well.
Don't know yet when I'll get to shoot the rest of the car but I plan on making it as soon as I can. Stay tuned!...
.Nothing TOO tragic there, but I did want to take the Mustang to a track day at the end of this month and now it looks like I've got some 'glass to fix beforehand. Ugh.
I DID manage to get all the small parts sprayed with base and clear, though, and with the exception of a couple light spots everything seems OK. I started on the small parts intentionally because I wanted to get a good feel for my new gun, get air pressures dialed in, etc., and everything seems OK...
.Really, the worst part (Except for smashing the brake scoop on my track car!) was the lack of indoor lighting. I made sure to get three full coats of base on everything and pretty much did except for a couple thin spots on the headlight surrounds, but when I go to shoot the body, doors, and hood I've got to get some more light set up in there or I'll be asking for trouble. I'm pretty happy with what I've done so far, though. I got four good coats of clear on everything except the side grilles and parts that won't be color sanded and polished; no runs or fisheyes, etc., so all's well.
Don't know yet when I'll get to shoot the rest of the car but I plan on making it as soon as I can. Stay tuned!...
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,345
Likes: 1,575
From: los altos hills california
Assuming you have changed tips on the spray gun for the finish coats?
One of the things I wish I had done a little better was to keep a separate test article like an old fender or something to spray first and get things dialed in. It should duplicate everything you spray on the car. I had a piece of flat sheet metal but that was just OK. When color sanding, without a more complex surface, I've not been sure how far to push the sanding without breaking through to the base and have remained a bit conservative. As a result I have a couple of places where the clear slumped and I didn't spot it until the orange peel was sanded off and buffed. So I am unsure how much I can rework those spots.
One of the things I wish I had done a little better was to keep a separate test article like an old fender or something to spray first and get things dialed in. It should duplicate everything you spray on the car. I had a piece of flat sheet metal but that was just OK. When color sanding, without a more complex surface, I've not been sure how far to push the sanding without breaking through to the base and have remained a bit conservative. As a result I have a couple of places where the clear slumped and I didn't spot it until the orange peel was sanded off and buffed. So I am unsure how much I can rework those spots.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Ya...The base/clear gun is a 1.3mm tip. I bought a DeVilbiss 'Starting Line' set awhile back and so far it seems to work OK, but again if I had to do it over again I would've reduced the primer drastically, like about 50%. The kit comes with two guns and three tips, a 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8. Shooting it in 95 degree heat might have helped cause that problem, though.
Today it was mid-80's in Temecula, though, so no problems there. Again, as you can see by the pictures, the lighting in my garage leaves something to be desired, so I'm gonna have to do something about that before I move on to the big stuff. When it does come time to start color sanding, I'm gonna put thin strips of tape over the sharp body lines so I don't sand through those. Don't trust my skill level...
Today it was mid-80's in Temecula, though, so no problems there. Again, as you can see by the pictures, the lighting in my garage leaves something to be desired, so I'm gonna have to do something about that before I move on to the big stuff. When it does come time to start color sanding, I'm gonna put thin strips of tape over the sharp body lines so I don't sand through those. Don't trust my skill level...
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I am not a painter but both cars are looking good to me, Birdsmith and Ignatz. Looking forward to seeing more pics. Too bad about the pony car, if its truly a track car, look at it like weight loss. Should be faster now. 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,168
Likes: 4,245
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Bird,
I'm enjoying your pictures and descriptions.
About the taped edges....
I think this is critical! The 2 painters I know well, with probably 70 years of experience between them, still tape the edges EVERY time. Rubbing through may be just one stroke away!
Continued good luck!
Regards,
Alan
I'm enjoying your pictures and descriptions.
About the taped edges....
I think this is critical! The 2 painters I know well, with probably 70 years of experience between them, still tape the edges EVERY time. Rubbing through may be just one stroke away!
Continued good luck!
Regards,
Alan
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: Montgomery TX
Ya...The base/clear gun is a 1.3mm tip. I bought a DeVilbiss 'Starting Line' set awhile back and so far it seems to work OK, but again if I had to do it over again I would've reduced the primer drastically, like about 50%. The kit comes with two guns and three tips, a 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8. Shooting it in 95 degree heat might have helped cause that problem, though.
Today it was mid-80's in Temecula, though, so no problems there. Again, as you can see by the pictures, the lighting in my garage leaves something to be desired, so I'm gonna have to do something about that before I move on to the big stuff. When it does come time to start color sanding, I'm gonna put thin strips of tape over the sharp body lines so I don't sand through those. Don't trust my skill level...
Today it was mid-80's in Temecula, though, so no problems there. Again, as you can see by the pictures, the lighting in my garage leaves something to be desired, so I'm gonna have to do something about that before I move on to the big stuff. When it does come time to start color sanding, I'm gonna put thin strips of tape over the sharp body lines so I don't sand through those. Don't trust my skill level...
I used and old 55 gal drum to test spray and dail in the gun. Worked out well because it is not a flat surface and there are no flat surfaces to spray on a C3.
You can't have enough lighting ion the garage. I had ceiling mounted four tube lights and three 500 watt floods and it still wasnt enough for painting black. If I had to do it over again I would buy several cheap halogen flood lights at Harbor Freight and flood the car with light all around. I couldnt see several runs and orange peel as I was spraying.
Made for a lotof color sanding and respray of one panel.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,345
Likes: 1,575
From: los altos hills california
Absolutely agree on the lighting. My garage door opens to the north and I was able to reflect sunlight off of foil-covered foam-insulation 4x8 sheets into the garage. Looking at the truck in the background in your pictures seems like you might have the same oppurtunity.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Finally got to shoot some color today, but not before I backed my Corvette into the side of the 'Other Car'. Now, I know that some of you are giggling, but I suddenly found myself with more fiberglass work to do...
.
Nothing TOO tragic there, but I did want to take the Mustang to a track day at the end of this month and now it looks like I've got some 'glass to fix beforehand. Ugh.
I DID manage to get all the small parts sprayed with base and clear, though, and with the exception of a couple light spots everything seems OK. I started on the small parts intentionally because I wanted to get a good feel for my new gun, get air pressures dialed in, etc., and everything seems OK...
.
Really, the worst part (Except for smashing the brake scoop on my track car!) was the lack of indoor lighting. I made sure to get three full coats of base on everything and pretty much did except for a couple thin spots on the headlight surrounds, but when I go to shoot the body, doors, and hood I've got to get some more light set up in there or I'll be asking for trouble. I'm pretty happy with what I've done so far, though. I got four good coats of clear on everything except the side grilles and parts that won't be color sanded and polished; no runs or fisheyes, etc., so all's well.
Don't know yet when I'll get to shoot the rest of the car but I plan on making it as soon as I can. Stay tuned!...
.Nothing TOO tragic there, but I did want to take the Mustang to a track day at the end of this month and now it looks like I've got some 'glass to fix beforehand. Ugh.
I DID manage to get all the small parts sprayed with base and clear, though, and with the exception of a couple light spots everything seems OK. I started on the small parts intentionally because I wanted to get a good feel for my new gun, get air pressures dialed in, etc., and everything seems OK...
.Really, the worst part (Except for smashing the brake scoop on my track car!) was the lack of indoor lighting. I made sure to get three full coats of base on everything and pretty much did except for a couple thin spots on the headlight surrounds, but when I go to shoot the body, doors, and hood I've got to get some more light set up in there or I'll be asking for trouble. I'm pretty happy with what I've done so far, though. I got four good coats of clear on everything except the side grilles and parts that won't be color sanded and polished; no runs or fisheyes, etc., so all's well.
Don't know yet when I'll get to shoot the rest of the car but I plan on making it as soon as I can. Stay tuned!...
Those parts look great... Know you have to be really happy so far... Little setbacks like the Stang kiss just help us build a little more character, and boy, working on these vette's helps us build a lot of character!!!
Keep it up and you'll be done in no time... I'm jealous...
Rogman
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Good to hear from you Roger...I'm pretty pleased with the results so far but the parts that I did spray have a kind of 'speckled' appearance, like I painted over some solvent pops or something. The only way that I can really confirm this is to color sand them and see if that flattens them out (fingers crossed). I was using about 15-18 psi at the gun. With these parts I sprayed some leftover Zolatone clear reduced about 15%, but I'm going to have to go and buy a gallon of new stuff for the rest of the car, and I'm inclined to get some of the 'Sears Better' stuff from my paint guy that hopefully sprays a bit better.
As far as the lighting, I'm really not getting much help from the sun. My garage door is on the north side so the sun pretty much just goes across the top. I get some light through the windows in the morning but that's about it, so I'm really going to need to get some "side lighting" going. I think I'm gonna put a pair of 48" tubes on either side of the car, fastening the fixture onto a "T" made from 2x4's. Not fancy, but that should give me the light that I need.
BTW Ignatz, don't worry about bombing my thread, but keep the ideas and suggestions coming, OK? Us old fartz gotta help each other out!! I always liked silver on these cars, and if I wasn't committed to the OE color I would have considered that myself.
IF I REALLY WANTED TO KILL MYSELF...I would shoot the rest of the paint this weekend, but that seems just a little too aggressive. Either next weekend or the one after that would be more realistic.
Stay tuned all, and thanks again for looking in!
As far as the lighting, I'm really not getting much help from the sun. My garage door is on the north side so the sun pretty much just goes across the top. I get some light through the windows in the morning but that's about it, so I'm really going to need to get some "side lighting" going. I think I'm gonna put a pair of 48" tubes on either side of the car, fastening the fixture onto a "T" made from 2x4's. Not fancy, but that should give me the light that I need.
BTW Ignatz, don't worry about bombing my thread, but keep the ideas and suggestions coming, OK? Us old fartz gotta help each other out!! I always liked silver on these cars, and if I wasn't committed to the OE color I would have considered that myself.
IF I REALLY WANTED TO KILL MYSELF...I would shoot the rest of the paint this weekend, but that seems just a little too aggressive. Either next weekend or the one after that would be more realistic.
Stay tuned all, and thanks again for looking in!
Last edited by birdsmith; Oct 11, 2012 at 06:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Couldn't Help Myself...
I just had to see how this stuff was gonna polish up, so I went out to Ye Olde Garage and grabbed some 2000 grit paper and wet-sanded out the gas door to see if those 'speckles' were going to polish out or if they represented something sinister lurking under the surface...
...Looks like everything turned out OK. I just used cheapo 3M rubbing compound for starters with a wool pad and then 3M finishing compound with a foam pad after that. If I can get the whole car this good I'll be elated!
...Looks like everything turned out OK. I just used cheapo 3M rubbing compound for starters with a wool pad and then 3M finishing compound with a foam pad after that. If I can get the whole car this good I'll be elated!