Fried electrical system '79....
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland Wisc
Fried electrical system '79....
very stupid mistake having the battery connected while taking the alternator off, the 2 lug connector grounded itself on the alternator body and smoked something in the area around the distributor, smoke puffed out but I dont think it was from the dist. itself. Now there is no power to the dome lights when the battery is connected and obviously nothing to the ignition. Fusable links???? fuses under the dash??? Melted wires somewhere that I cant see but I can smell. Any help would be appeciated, my electrical skills are minimal but there isnt alot of hi tech stuff on this car. Thanks...
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From: Crossville TN
Those things are "fusible links" and must be replaced with other (properly sized) fusible links...if you want the electrical system to continue to protect itself from "human error". Or, you can just put regular wire in there and fry the whole car doing the same thing next time... 
(Hint: buy the right fusible link to fix the problem)
(Hint: buy the right fusible link to fix the problem)
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From: Dayton, Ohio
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From: Hartland Wisc
"rodger" that Rodger!!!
thanks for the picture too. The 16 ga wire that fried was in fact the "link" from the plastic insulator to the pos battery connection on the starter. I got some 16 ga. fusible link wire this am and will solder it in tonite. I thought that I also had to replace the plastic insulator but since the link burned ahead of it, it should be safe.
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From: Crossville TN
I guess it is possible, but I've never heard of 'fusible link wire' being sold (off the reel) at any auto supply stores. The links come with the insulator ends and their insulation will char but NOT catch fire. The insulators are to keep the heat away from the 'regular' wire so that adjacent wire insulation will not catch fire, either.
I'm not comfortable that the person you bought this wire from knows what he/she's talking about. This is NOT something you want to be unsure of.
Replacement fusible links come with the insulators and 'regular' wire stubs which are then spliced into the existing 'regular' wire.
I'm not comfortable that the person you bought this wire from knows what he/she's talking about. This is NOT something you want to be unsure of.
Replacement fusible links come with the insulators and 'regular' wire stubs which are then spliced into the existing 'regular' wire.
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 16, 2011 at 12:02 PM.
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Cut the original insulator off, then use a copper or brass uninsulated butt connector, solder and use a good heatshrink over the splice. Can even use a couple layers.
The good 3M heatshrink is flame retardant, same as the insulation on the link wire.
Leave the connection exposed, don't tape it up into a harness.
I use the bulk link wire all the time.
The good 3M heatshrink is flame retardant, same as the insulation on the link wire.
Leave the connection exposed, don't tape it up into a harness.
I use the bulk link wire all the time.
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From: Crossville TN
The wire is nothing special, so stock reel wire [of the correct AWG] will do the job. Fusible link wire is usually two AWG sizes smaller than the wire to which it is installed. The important aspects of the fusible link are: flame proof/resistant insulation and inert insulators terminating the 'fuse' wire. If you can build your own with those parameters, it should work just fine.
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From: Hartland Wisc
Fire in the hole!!!!
Just in the cylinders.....I soldered a new section of 16 ga fusible link in and sealed it with heat shrink tube and electric tape. Electrical functions are all fine and it started right up. It all started when I forgot to disconnect the battery when removing the alternator and the leads shorted themselves on the alternator body, so I know there arent any other issues to deal with. Thanks for the input.
