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Steve C. Thanks for the complement. I acid washed the block, only the surface to be panted, and
then used Dupli Color engine primer, then their High temp ceramic paint.
It does give it a nice look, I couldn't see putting this together with out a little retro color.
Riggs..glad to see your setup moving along nicely.
Good choice going with the Yank converter and stall speed. I went with a Vigilanti 3,200. It was a difficult decision between all the pros and cons on all the forums.
You will definitely have a good time with that setup.
Can't wait to see videos of it doing some burnouts.
Steve C. Thanks for the complement. I acid washed the block, only the surface to be panted, and
then used Dupli Color engine primer, then their High temp ceramic paint.
It does give it a nice look, I couldn't see putting this together with out a little retro color.
Riggs.
Yup, now that I've seen it, the orange definitely wins out over my planned black. I'm at the other end of the performance spectrum with my set up, but it will l still be quicker than the stock setup and I'm building it for my wife to drive so it's got to tolerate city traffic etc., and if we really want to rip around I can drag out the ZO6 and let 'er eat.
Are you going with fuel rail covers or leave them off to show off the hardware??????
No covers, I think those covers look out of place on anything that has detail, and I think it adds
more interest under the hood to see the the mechanicals that the covers normally hide.
Covers are a cheap way to cover up the original ugly setup.
Well it's been a while, but as I said at the start of this thread I get about five minutes every six days to to myself, LOL Or something like that.
The motor and trans is complete with wiring harness and front accessory drive installed, ready to drop in. I had to rework the wiring harness to fit to the Corvette intake, when I had current performance rewire the harness they assumed I would be still running the truck intake so the harness ran across the intake and I thought it looked terrible, So I had to rework it to make it fit the intake a little better along with some other changes.
I hope to remove the old motor out of the car very soon, as I started to pull the hood and drain the fluids a week ago, my wife said she would really like to go for another ride before I dismantle the car, I can't deny her of that pleasure, LOL, although we can't go very fast due to the old trans slips pretty bad in 3rd and 4th but still moves the car as long as you stay out of the throttle. I hope to pull the motor very soon.
Hey Bill, No, other than the car is already an auto and I was to lazy to do the clutch pedal assembly swap, only because it's so hard to find time for the project as it is. Looking back I should have went with a 5 speed manual, for the price I have in the custom built 4L70E I could have done the manual a little cheaper. However, I hope to run a paddle shifting setup to the car after I complete the LS swap, that should add some cool factor back into the fact that the car is running an auto trans, not to mention it should work really well out on the auto cross tracks.
very nice looking set-up. i'm just an old time carb and distributor guy, so could you give me some details as to what the electronic controls are on this engine/trans switch. that is, what are the changes that you'll make in the wiring harness to run this engine, and where are you going to mount the ecu and exhaust line sensors?
jnb5101,
The electronics on the motor are for the Fuel injection and its sensors along with the timing/ignition, and throttle body control.
Trans has electronic solenoid's inside for shifting and electronic speedometer, and it also monitors the gear selector.
Current performance reworked the harness, they deleted the unnecessary wiring that was no longer needed and added in a fuse panel and relays for eclectic fans, fuel pump, and future AC. They also added in a data link cable, accelerator pedal and harness for the drive by wire setup and installed leads to run to the dash for the electric speedometer, tac, check engine light and a few others that I can't recall at the moment.
69 CHEVY,
The clamps That are used for these headers are the ones shown in this link. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-692300/?rtype=10
I am told they are leak free and surpass the old style header collectors, Lets hope they're right, those old style header collectors were prone to leak.
Those band clamps have been used on big rigs for decades (although bigger diameters) and never to butt same diameter pipes together; always a slip fit. There is a little piece of rolled up aluminum foil that lays in the seam where the bolt flanges meet. That's where the leaks occur.
Well I canceled my normal busy weekend schedule to make time for the car today. I pulled the motor and power washed the engine bay today. I also started to sort through the original wiring harness in the engine bay and found the wiring to be in bad shape, with alot of splices and just really messy, also removed the electric fan controls, the old MSD system, and the 700r4 vacuum switch and wiring for the trans lock up. The PO really butchered the old wiring harness, but I can fix it.
I am going to remove the Ac system and install a blank off plate to clean up things a little in the engine bay. I have a few holes in the fire wall I will want to fix before I spray in some fresh paint.
I am now officially starting my LS swap, Do you guys think I should start a new thread or just keep this one running?
Here are some photo's
The old set up, the old 355 was fun to drive but it can stack up to what the new LS is going to deliver.
after a quick pressure wash and some dismantling of the wiring harness
I hope work on this a little more this weekend so I can get the engine bay painted before it gets to cold.
Dont knock your old engine,you can give it to me,also you could have built it to out run that ls motor,for alot less money.stock for stock the ls would win hands down ,but modding them ,it would be a battle.The fuel injection for the street is a plus The setup you have is awesome ,but to stand up for the old engine ,it could have done a awesome job too. Again,i will take that engine if you dont want it.
Bill, I don't disagree with you, I have twice the money in the LS than I would've in setting up the 355 the way I would like it. The problem I couldn't get around was that the 355 is only a two bolt main block and to do the machine work and add the different caps to make the bottom end as strong as I would like to see it, would've taken more money than I would want to put into it. This coupled with the fact that the 700R4 started to slip in 3rd and 4th gear made me just want to abandon the whole setup even more.
I did want to save the motor for a little street rod or retro shop truck project but I'm not sure how long I want to store this motor in my way, I have very little space to work out of.
Bill, I don't disagree with you, I have twice the money in the LS than I would've in setting up the 355 the way I would like it. The problem I couldn't get around was that the 355 is only a two bolt main block and to do the machine work and add the different caps to make the bottom end as strong as I would like to see it, would've taken more money than I would want to put into it. This coupled with the fact that the 700R4 started to slip in 3rd and 4th gear made me just want to abandon the whole setup even more.
I did want to save the motor for a little street rod or retro shop truck project but I'm not sure how long I want to store this motor in my way, I have very little space to work out of.
Riggs
Oh ,i thought the engine was a 4 bolt,never mind you can keep the engine after what you said i can understand your decision.