problems brushing on por 15 engine enamel
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
problems brushing on por 15 engine enamel
i picked up the chevy orange engine kit (degreaser, metal prep, por15, engine enamel) and while it says it can be brushed on, im getting some pretty crappy results.
i did my bellhousing and oil pan first for a practice run. i stripped them both down to clean metal and washed with lacquer thinner. the first coat of paint had really crappy coverage, brush marks, and runs all over in it. i let it dry for 2-3 days and then sanded all the runs out of it, the 2nd coat covered and flowed a bit better, but theres still brush marks, light spots, and runs in it.
has anyone had this problem while brushing it on? im thinking about spraying it on when i get to the heads and block. does this just spray like normal paint?
thanks
i did my bellhousing and oil pan first for a practice run. i stripped them both down to clean metal and washed with lacquer thinner. the first coat of paint had really crappy coverage, brush marks, and runs all over in it. i let it dry for 2-3 days and then sanded all the runs out of it, the 2nd coat covered and flowed a bit better, but theres still brush marks, light spots, and runs in it.
has anyone had this problem while brushing it on? im thinking about spraying it on when i get to the heads and block. does this just spray like normal paint?
thanks
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I don't know that stuff is pretty much the easiest paint to brush on there is and it is self leveling a trained monkey could do it. Don't get mad I own my own painting business and I have seen it all.
I said on a recent estimate I did " A trained monkey could have painted this room better to which the customer said " I painted that room" to which I replied " I mean he would have to be a well trained monkey" This actually happened we both were laughing about it a few minutes later, didn't get the job though.
I got there black kit for my block and it turned out fantastic
I even used the silver stuff in the kit to coat my master cylinder and it turned out like I had sanded it down.
You might be doing something wrong, I do know one thing about paint once it has started to dry and cure you can't touch it or it will be a mess you have to wait a day or so until completely dry to do any touch-ups
I said on a recent estimate I did " A trained monkey could have painted this room better to which the customer said " I painted that room" to which I replied " I mean he would have to be a well trained monkey" This actually happened we both were laughing about it a few minutes later, didn't get the job though.
I got there black kit for my block and it turned out fantastic
I even used the silver stuff in the kit to coat my master cylinder and it turned out like I had sanded it down.
You might be doing something wrong, I do know one thing about paint once it has started to dry and cure you can't touch it or it will be a mess you have to wait a day or so until completely dry to do any touch-ups
Last edited by MotorHead; May 27, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
i wonder if it has something to do with a smooth vs textured metal. both my oil pan and bellhousing were wire wheeled. when i was brushing it on, you could see large areas where the paint just wasnt adhering to. i dont mean like when painting over oil, but just that the paint couldnt stay on the surface.
and i do fully admit that i screwed up the first coat by not using the metal prep spray (the enamel can just say to paint it right on, advanced directions on pors site said smooth metal needed metal prep first) but theres no excuse for the 2nd coat.
maybe ill email por and find out if theres been any known bad batches of paint lately.
and i do fully admit that i screwed up the first coat by not using the metal prep spray (the enamel can just say to paint it right on, advanced directions on pors site said smooth metal needed metal prep first) but theres no excuse for the 2nd coat.
maybe ill email por and find out if theres been any known bad batches of paint lately.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Yeah I can't say I've used it on a smooth surface, the block and master cylinder are very porous. I know in the world of house painting you have to do something to real smooth surfaces, it just gives the paint something to cling to. If you have high gloss on the trim or whatever it has to be primed with a paint specifically made for this purpose, it will stick to the shiny high gloss paint and when dry you get a flat finish that any paint will stick to.
So they probably have something for this or you could sand them down and I don't mean 300 grit, something like 100 or 150 and after a few coats of the primer and top coat should be smooth as a babies bottom
So they probably have something for this or you could sand them down and I don't mean 300 grit, something like 100 or 150 and after a few coats of the primer and top coat should be smooth as a babies bottom
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
From: Trumbull CT.
I bought the engine paint also.
I spoke to the rep on the phone when ordering the paint. He was a little vague as far as results using anything other than their prep products. I bought the whole ball of wax. I started at the bottom of the engine with the oil pan using all of their products as directed and got the same results as you did.
Go figure. I have gotten better results with rattle cans.
I spoke to the rep on the phone when ordering the paint. He was a little vague as far as results using anything other than their prep products. I bought the whole ball of wax. I started at the bottom of the engine with the oil pan using all of their products as directed and got the same results as you did.
Go figure. I have gotten better results with rattle cans.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I bought the engine paint also.
I spoke to the rep on the phone when ordering the paint. He was a little vague as far as results using anything other than their prep products. I bought the whole ball of wax. I started at the bottom of the engine with the oil pan using all of their products as directed and got the same results as you did. Go figure. I have gotten better results with rattle cans.
I spoke to the rep on the phone when ordering the paint. He was a little vague as far as results using anything other than their prep products. I bought the whole ball of wax. I started at the bottom of the engine with the oil pan using all of their products as directed and got the same results as you did.
Go figure. I have gotten better results with rattle cans.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
with that said, the single coat coverage they advertise is a damn lie.
no kidding. i spray painted my oil pan and block a few years ago and it came out beautiful. too bad the paint started peeling off after a few years.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
I did the opposite to you. I brushed the block and sprayed the pan and valve covers.
Of the two, I think spraying is bettter.
The best results I've found come when you use the recommended products to prep each part. Rather then cleaning with lacquer thinner, use the POR products (marine clean and metal ready) IMO, this is key.
When using the brush, keep working the paint after you put it on until it gets tacky. You'll find it flows well and all the runs/brushmarks go away.
If you use the gun, cut the paint 10% with the POR reducer.
Don't give up, the stuff works very well once it's on correctly.
Of the two, I think spraying is bettter.
The best results I've found come when you use the recommended products to prep each part. Rather then cleaning with lacquer thinner, use the POR products (marine clean and metal ready) IMO, this is key.
When using the brush, keep working the paint after you put it on until it gets tacky. You'll find it flows well and all the runs/brushmarks go away.
If you use the gun, cut the paint 10% with the POR reducer.
Don't give up, the stuff works very well once it's on correctly.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
I wouldn't use the thinner to clean the surface. If you don't use the Marine Clean, I'd at least use Dawn dish soap in its place. The metal ready is a must to have the best results.
I've not had the issues like you have any time I've used it.
It just looks like there must be something still on the surface from something. As it looks like it is running in patches.
I'm going to buy some tomorrow for a block I need painted. I'll try to print your pic and see what the dealer says about it.
I've not had the issues like you have any time I've used it.
It just looks like there must be something still on the surface from something. As it looks like it is running in patches.
I'm going to buy some tomorrow for a block I need painted. I'll try to print your pic and see what the dealer says about it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
From: Trumbull CT.
So how did it look when you got to the rough surface of the block ?
Never got past the pan. I used all the products, the clean, the ready as per the directions.
I used their black on other parts of the car and had good results so the orange was a surprise.
Never got past the pan. I used all the products, the clean, the ready as per the directions.
I used their black on other parts of the car and had good results so the orange was a surprise.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
one of the problems i ran into was, when i did one section, like the top of the oil pan, and then moved to the sides. by the time i got to the sides, i had a small ridge hardening on the top of the i had to paint over.
Last edited by another-user; May 27, 2011 at 09:47 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 5
From: Livonia MI
Haven't used this stuff myself, but know it has a pretty short shelf life, so maybe you got hold of some old stock. I usually just stick with spray Dupli-Color engine enamal for the block, and spray Rust Oleum for the trim.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
The directions say to paint the block or pan with the regular black or silver POR15 and to paint the orange pigment over the original black or silver paint.
NEVER open the cans to use them if you expect shelf life. Get a self tapping screw that has the rubber seal on it and drill it into the side of the can just below the top. Squeeze the amount of paint into your paint can that you need and replace the screw.
I've had some last over 5 years. The clear wrap under the lid doesn't work over time either.
As soon as the lid opens, the moisture in the air begins the hardening process.
NEVER open the cans to use them if you expect shelf life. Get a self tapping screw that has the rubber seal on it and drill it into the side of the can just below the top. Squeeze the amount of paint into your paint can that you need and replace the screw.
I've had some last over 5 years. The clear wrap under the lid doesn't work over time either.
As soon as the lid opens, the moisture in the air begins the hardening process.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
did you just keep working it around in little sections at a time until it got tacky? swirls or just back and forth?
one of the problems i ran into was, when i did one section, like the top of the oil pan, and then moved to the sides. by the time i got to the sides, i had a small ridge hardening on the top of the i had to paint over.
one of the problems i ran into was, when i did one section, like the top of the oil pan, and then moved to the sides. by the time i got to the sides, i had a small ridge hardening on the top of the i had to paint over.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
You did use the POR15 paint before the chevy orange, right?
It is a lot easier painting the rough surfaces, but it will work just fine on smooth surfaces as well. Even if it doesn't seem quite smooth when applied it will level itself.
If it doesn't work it's because you didn't prep it right.
Here are a couple of pics of the pulleys i painted with POR15 during the restoration of my '71, brush painted (actually the first time I used POR15):
BTW: What looks like imperfections in the first picture actually isn't, it's reflections because of the glass like surface
It is a lot easier painting the rough surfaces, but it will work just fine on smooth surfaces as well. Even if it doesn't seem quite smooth when applied it will level itself.
If it doesn't work it's because you didn't prep it right.
Here are a couple of pics of the pulleys i painted with POR15 during the restoration of my '71, brush painted (actually the first time I used POR15):
BTW: What looks like imperfections in the first picture actually isn't, it's reflections because of the glass like surface
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Ian,
As usual different pictures of your work than I've already seen only show to a GREATER degree what a craftsman you are.
"Craftsmanship and attention to detail beyond all reason"
Regards,
Alan
As usual different pictures of your work than I've already seen only show to a GREATER degree what a craftsman you are.
"Craftsmanship and attention to detail beyond all reason"
Regards,
Alan
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: London England
I'm no paint expert but looking at those pics I'd say either there was too much thinner in the color, it wasn't stirred/shaken properly before you started or there was some kind of contaminant on the surface before you put the color on.
