This is typically the case. Noisy means loose more often than not. 
454 rebuild Engine noisy
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 98
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From: Oglesby Illinois
454 rebuild Engine noisy
So I got the 70 454 LS5 rebuilt with new Speed-Pro forged pistons as they most closely matched the original piston spec. The engine is however fairly noisy and doesn’t seem to get much better after heating up. I am sure some noise could be from the forged pistons but I am not sure if some isn't from the lifters, but i am not an expert and for me it is hard to tell where the noise is coming from. Is there a way to determine if it is lifter noise or piston noise? Also what is the recommended method of adjusting the lifters once they are filled with oil? I have read so many articles on adjusting the lifters that I am confused.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
You may have the lifters set way too tight. The "spinning the pushrod" method for setting hydraulic lifters is confusing for anyone other than experience mechanics. I much prefer the "shake them up/down" approach to find the Zero Lash point. Use the same process to find the 'off lobe' position on the camshaft for each lifter; back the adjustment nut off to make sure there is excess clearance; now, as you slowly tighten the adjustment nut, shake the pushrod and feel for when the 'slack' is removed from the system. That is Zero Lash. Now continue to turn the nut 1/2 to 3/4 turn CW to set it in the center of travel. (I use the 1/2 turn approach; GM likes 1 full turn, but that doesn't work so well at higher rpms).
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Le Mans Master
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From: Butler Pa
Pro
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From: Stockholm Sweden
Sometimes the original "windige tray" may be just slightly bent resulting in that the pushrod bolts hitting it.
This happened to my engine in the dyno and when listening with a stetoskop one could trace the noise to come from the bottom end/oilpan.
For some reason this was not observed when the engine was put together , propably the phone rang just at that time..
However, it was just to drop the oilpan and straighten out the windagetray and the noise was gone and everyone happy again.
This happened to my engine in the dyno and when listening with a stetoskop one could trace the noise to come from the bottom end/oilpan.
For some reason this was not observed when the engine was put together , propably the phone rang just at that time..
However, it was just to drop the oilpan and straighten out the windagetray and the noise was gone and everyone happy again.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 98
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From: Oglesby Illinois
Well it does not sound like a sharp ticking noise, more like a diesel. And yes i originally did adjust the lifters "too tight" which resulted in no compression as the valves would never seal, which in turn resulted in the engine not running. So i backed them off to where they were which it then fired up again.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 183
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From: Litchfield CT
engine noise
Your engine might be simply pinging. What octane fuel are you using? If pump gas, you might try an octane booster.
Also, advanced timing might cause pinging. Recheck timing, I think it should be 4 degrees BTDC, without vacuum advance.
If you have breaker points in the distributor, check dwell angle.
Do a plug check. Plugs might be too hot. Try going down 1 or 2 heat ranges.
Also, did you change rocker arms? If you went to a longer ratio, your pushrods could be impacting the heads.
Start easy and cheap. Gas and timing.
Also, advanced timing might cause pinging. Recheck timing, I think it should be 4 degrees BTDC, without vacuum advance.
If you have breaker points in the distributor, check dwell angle.
Do a plug check. Plugs might be too hot. Try going down 1 or 2 heat ranges.
Also, did you change rocker arms? If you went to a longer ratio, your pushrods could be impacting the heads.
Start easy and cheap. Gas and timing.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Well it does not sound like a sharp ticking noise, more like a diesel. And yes i originally did adjust the lifters "too tight" which resulted in no compression as the valves would never seal, which in turn resulted in the engine not running. So i backed them off to where they were which it then fired up again.
Get a mechanics stethoscope if you don't have one already .. they're cheap.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
Bashcraft...
If everyone would re-read your "useful" comments in this thread, they will clearly see that you have added nothing of value to the discussion. You just choose to sit on the sidelines and take 'potshots' at others who are trying to be helpful to the poster. This seems to be your 'standard' approach--offer no useful advice or information whatsoever; just throw barbs at others because your views don't agree with their's.
We can all recognize useless contributors when they pop up....
Get a life.
If everyone would re-read your "useful" comments in this thread, they will clearly see that you have added nothing of value to the discussion. You just choose to sit on the sidelines and take 'potshots' at others who are trying to be helpful to the poster. This seems to be your 'standard' approach--offer no useful advice or information whatsoever; just throw barbs at others because your views don't agree with their's.
We can all recognize useless contributors when they pop up....
Get a life.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 52
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From: mckinney tx
Could be piston slap???? How much oil pressure do you have when it's first fired up (engine cold)? How much oil pressure do you have when it warmed up?? Who built the engine? Was it a full blown overhaul by a reputable machine shop or was it a 'ol ball hone job and call it good?? Gotta have Alot more details of the engine before we can get close to diagnosing the problem..
Jeremy
Jeremy
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 102
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From: Livingston TN
Your engine might be simply pinging. What octane fuel are you using? If pump gas, you might try an octane booster.
Also, advanced timing might cause pinging. Recheck timing, I think it should be 4 degrees BTDC, without vacuum advance.
If you have breaker points in the distributor, check dwell angle.
Do a plug check. Plugs might be too hot. Try going down 1 or 2 heat ranges.
Also, did you change rocker arms? If you went to a longer ratio, your pushrods could be impacting the heads.
Start easy and cheap. Gas and timing.
Also, advanced timing might cause pinging. Recheck timing, I think it should be 4 degrees BTDC, without vacuum advance.
If you have breaker points in the distributor, check dwell angle.
Do a plug check. Plugs might be too hot. Try going down 1 or 2 heat ranges.
Also, did you change rocker arms? If you went to a longer ratio, your pushrods could be impacting the heads.
Start easy and cheap. Gas and timing.
i agree with this reply the most. but for my questions:
is this a constant sound, or does it come around under load and heavy acceleration?
what gap do you have your plugs set to?
whats your compression calculated at?
oh, another thing....
is you dont have, cant find, or dont have funds for a mechanics stethoscope, you could try using a 2 to 3 foot length of hose, diameter between 3/8 and 3/4 have always worked great for me. hold one end to one of your ears, and the hold against the valve cover and listen. move that end of the hose around the engine until you get the closest to the sound. a means of eliminating the possibilities
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,505
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From: Butler Pa
Oh, and your welcome.
