There are quite a few people running Performer RPM intakes on the forum. May want to do a quick search. I've heard from quite a few posts that it will fit under the factory hood with a low-profile or drop-base air cleaner.

 

shortest aka lowest vortec intake is Professional Products Cyclone p/n 52007. Mounts either QJet or squarebore.

plain EB 2101 A= 3.50" B=4.60" Avg=4.05"

vortec EB 2116 A=3.87" B=5.28" AVG= 4.575"

vortec PP 52007 A = 3.60", B = 4.90", AVG = 4.25"


your combo will easily make 350fwhp, probably +400fwhp ... but with a decent quench it's gonna be just north of 10:1 with iron heads.

suggest OP consider buy & overhaul a complete rebuildable core iron head, iron block Vortec 350 5.7L "L31" ... about '96 thru 2000 GM lite to med pkp truck van suv ... 8th character in VIN is "R" comes with vortec heads & Roller Cam.

Year One freshens those with mild porting and a LT4 hot rollercam & 1.6:1 rockers and includes a dyno sheet ... guaranteed 400fwhp @ 9 1/2:1 ... or you can just have theirs delivered for about $3200.

-add-
OP's overhaul parts + heads, cam & intake + shipping are approaching $2800-$3000 ... then there's $machinework & assembly. Above YearOne CT350PC1 purchase price $2999.

-add-
Blockman points out those H860 pistons chosen by OP.
My oversight. I see they are flattops but they're for a 383 not a 350 build. H860 are wrong for 350; rather than north of 10:1, they'd barely make 8:1. Similar piston but correct for 350 is H631 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H631CP30/

still think yearone likely smarter money here.

 

Hey guys,
I've been thinking....Instead of boring out the I should but an eagle Rebuild kit with new crankshaft, Rods, pistons and bearings?

 

On the pistons they show a CH of 1.425 which if true this will put the pistons .135 in the hole if you have a true 9.025 deck!!!

I would try to acheive a .040 quench and also its a good idea to have the block squared and decked and leave the VIN number on the deck, If they are boring of the decks they should be squared first.

And as always its a good idea to plate hone the block for good ring seal more so as you are increasing the dynamic compression, You better of keeping the compression in the cylinder then bleeding it off in the oil pan.

Also balancing is a must and if this engine is a standard its a good idea to do the flywheel and the pressure plate as well.

Rods chould be resized or at least check for proper sizing and also they need to be check for bend and twist.

Its a good idea on GM blocks with the many heat cycles the have gone through is to have the block line honed.

On GM blocks when we line hone them we have to cutr the caps at least .003 because of alignment issuses and so the caps will clean up every where and in some cases we still end up with shadows at the parting lines. On some blocks we may have to cut the caps more and reline hone to get the housing bores to clean up every where.

If GM main lines were good we should only have to cut the caps .001 and line hone and they should clean up every where but its not happening.

Its a good idea to use a performance cam bearing with your set up!!

Good luck with your build.

 

Hey Guys

Thanks for the great advice so far!!

I believe a complete setup for my engine:
I'm thinking of not boring out the engine and just buying a new rotating assembly from Eagle Specialty Products.

Rotating Assembly:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13202ESTD/

Heads:
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-perfor...parts/25534421

Headers:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9003/

Camshaft:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K12-422-8/
Thrust Button:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-200/
Wear Plate:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-201/

Intake Manifold:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-52007/

Gasket Set:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-5991/
will this gasket set work with the machined out heads?

Im guessing the only parts I need to finish this set up is a new Harmonoic Balancer, flywheel and new Rocker Arms.

For rocker arms I was thinking about these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1418-16/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1417-16/
Which one of these sets work the best?

I feel that I'm right there at the end!!
If you guys could give your opinion on this set up and some suggestions on the balancer and flywheel it could be the end of this long and often stressful month of selecting the right parts!!

Thank you

 

Sinister, you are obviously on a tight budget at your age and you are all over the map with this thing. A high perf engine comes at a big cost.

I'm not sure why you would buy a POS Eagle rotating assembly when you already have a crank and rods. It would be cheaper to polish the crank $100 and rebuild the rods $80, and buy a set of hyper pistons $200 new rings $50 and bearings $100.

The new Eagle crank will more than likely need to be turned since many are out of tolerance new.

As for your block, IF the bore taper is within tolerance and it can simply be honed for new rings you could get away with this approach of using a 4.00 piston. This would be a total budget rebuild and give you time to enjoy the car while saving for a real performance engine like Jackson mentioned above.

I'd skip the whole retro-roller cam thing and run a nice little hydraulic flat tappet for your budget and save $1,000. Do a fresh valve job on your existing heads and call it good for now.

Now if you are planning on paying someone for all this work, it is definately cheaper to buy a new crate engine now and just do a remove and replace because the labor for your rebuild will add up fast.
Just my 2 pesos.

 

Im rebuilding this engine myself...All these parts that I have are below my budget. so i don't have a problem with that.

For anyone who doesn't know, my project is a complete frame off... I rebuilt the front and rear suspension last week and I'm currently mounting the fuel lines and and brake lines.

I want to this engine to be the best it could be the first time around.. i don't care about saving money on something that i know ill regret it later on...

And I refuse to buy a crate because that takes away the satisfaction and pride you achieve of building an engine yourself.

 

Those rods are totally junk as we have seen them in the shop many times to find after retorquing them they go out of round.

That crank is balanced to a spacific bob wight appox. 1900 gram and is not balanced with the parts you are getting.

 

yea, I decided to just rebuild my Rods, and reuse my crankshaft.

 

So what did you end up doing and how did it turn out?