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chronic brake SQUEAK... squeak... squeak...

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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #1  
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Default chronic brake SQUEAK... squeak... squeak...

howdy all,

i have been plagued with the brake squeak that won't go away, in my 80 vette. seems to be coming from right front tire. the shop i take it to replaced the rotors, calipers, pads, bled the system... the whole sh'bang. i've taken it back and they replaced the pads (at no charge) and the problem seemed to go away, but then crept back after a few days of driving.

i'm going to list all the related symptoms i've experienced
:
-seems to be coming specifically from right front tire
-no squeak when i start driving in the morning but soon comes back just after a few minutes of driving
-squeak goes away as i press the brake pedal during normal braking
-squeak gets worse/louder as i go driving, especially in stop and go traffic
-when i get the car back from brake service at the shop: brakes feel good, no squeak.
after i drive it for a few days: a bit more pedal travel/softness
-didn't drive the car for a week: none to little squeak the day i drove it. squeak came back the next day. increased the more days i drove.


so, any ideas?

thanks... much appreciated.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteHalen
howdy all,

i have been plagued with the brake squeak that won't go away, in my 80 vette. seems to be coming from right front tire. the shop i take it to replaced the rotors, calipers, pads, bled the system... the whole sh'bang. i've taken it back and they replaced the pads (at no charge) and the problem seemed to go away, but then crept back after a few days of driving.

i'm going to list all the related symptoms i've experienced
:
-seems to be coming specifically from right front tire
-no squeak when i start driving in the morning but soon comes back just after a few minutes of driving
-squeak goes away as i press the brake pedal during normal braking
-squeak gets worse/louder as i go driving, especially in stop and go traffic
-when i get the car back from brake service at the shop: brakes feel good, no squeak.
after i drive it for a few days: a bit more pedal travel/softness
-didn't drive the car for a week: none to little squeak the day i drove it. squeak came back the next day. increased the more days i drove.


so, any ideas?

thanks... much appreciated.
They sell a lubricant to put on after you rebuild the brakes that is supposed to help future squeak. They put it on mine and no more noise. Any Kragen or parts store sells it.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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It has some rotor runnout and the pads are sliding in and out on the retainer pin. That is the squeak, and that also causes the loss of pedal after a drive.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
It has some rotor runnout and the pads are sliding in and out on the retainer pin. That is the squeak, and that also causes the loss of pedal after a drive.
Find a shop that knows vette brakes.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
It has some rotor runnout and the pads are sliding in and out on the retainer pin. That is the squeak, and that also causes the loss of pedal after a drive.
ah, that makes sense. so they're going to have to throw some correct shims on there. thanks, i'll go to them with this info (it's odd that they wouldn't have realized this -they're actually a reputable shop)


Originally Posted by trainor
They sell a lubricant to put on after you rebuild the brakes that is supposed to help future squeak. They put it on mine and no more noise. Any Kragen or parts store sells it.
i'll keep that tip in my back pocket, just in case...
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by VetteHalen
ah, that makes sense. so they're going to have to throw some correct shims on there. thanks, i'll go to them with this info (it's odd that they wouldn't have realized this -they're actually a reputable shop)

In all fairness, the style of brakes on the C3's has not been used since 1982. Most of the brake shops, regardless of their reputation, have never had to deal with full 4 piston calipers that are fixed in position.It's like having the rotors turned- you need to remove the same amount equally from both sides of the rotor so the rotor stays in the middle of the caliper and piston travel is equal.



i'll keep that tip in my back pocket, just in case...
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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Not to sabotage this thread, but how do they turn a drilled & slotted rotor?
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 10:30 AM
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The brake shop should have used something like this:

http://www.eastwood.com/crc-syntheti...-8oz-5332.html

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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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If the squeaking is due to the front/back edges of the brake pad backing plate rubbing on the inside of the caliper casting, you can resolve it by putting some teflon tubing on those ends of the pads. The tubing needs to be teflon due to the potential for brake heat. About 1/4" diameter [thin-wall 1/16" thick or less] tubing would be best. Cut pieces of tubing the same length as the end of the backing plate on the brake pad; then slit it lengthwise from end to end. Remove the wheel, then slide the tubing over one end of the brake pad backing plate and push it all the way down. You may have to use a small screwdriver to pry the pad away from the caliper so that you can slide it in place. Now pry that pad the other direction and put some tubing on the rear end of the pad backing plate. Do this for all of the pads, if you want...or only for those that are squeaking.

Some of the aftermarket vendors sell these items...but they cost over $10 for 8 pieces of tubing. They don't even include enough tubing for all of the pad ends (16 needed)!! It's easier to buy 4 feet of teflon tubing and do it yourself.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 4, 2011 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If the squeaking is due to the front/back edges of the brake pad backing plate rubbing on the inside of the caliper casting, you can resolve it by putting some teflon tubing on those ends of the pads. The tubing needs to be teflon due to the potential for brake heat. About 1/4" diameter [thin-wall 1/16" thick or less] tubing would be best. Cut pieces of tubing the same length as the end of the backing plate on the brake pad; then slit it lengthwise from end to end. Remove the wheel, then slide the tubing over one end of the brake pad backing plate and push it all the way down. You may have to use a small screwdriver to pry the pad away from the caliper so that you can slide it in place. Now pry that pad the other direction and put some tubing on the rear end of the pad backing plate. Do this for all of the pads, if you want...or only for those that are squeaking.

Some of the aftermarket vendors sell these items...but they cost over $10 for 8 pieces of tubing. They don't even include enough tubing for all of the pad ends (16 needed)!! It's easier to buy 4 feet of teflon tubing and do it yourself.
But you are really just treating the symptom and not correcting the problem with this and the grease or other treatments. If you fix the run out, the squeak will go away.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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Well, aren't you the guru of brakes?! My runout is fine, thank you. C3 brakes have 'squeaked' since they were taken off the drawing boards and turned into hardware. I've owned new ones....I've owned used ones; but I've never owned one that didn't "squeak"--until I installed the damned little tubing sleeves.

You do it your way and I'll do it mine...thank you very much________
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Well, aren't you the guru of brakes?! My runout is fine, thank you. C3 brakes have 'squeaked' since they were taken off the drawing boards and turned into hardware. I've owned new ones....I've owned used ones; but I've never owned one that didn't "squeak"--until I installed the damned little tubing sleeves.

You do it your way and I'll do it mine...thank you very much________
Touchy Touchy, Do it any way you want to.

But, they dont all squeak.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 03:47 AM
  #13  
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so... what you are all basically saying is i should sell the Vette and buy a Toyota?
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by VetteHalen
so... what you are all basically saying is i should sell the Vette and buy a Toyota?
Just take it to the brake shop and have them remove the hub and rotor. Bolt them together and turn them on a good brake machine. That will get rid of the run out.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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yeah, i was of course kidding about selling my Vette. this beast is MINE, warts and all!

anywho, i'm planning on taking it back to the shop and have them check for run out. (i may print this page out and show it to them).
Thanks all!
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Zero runout -> zero movement -> zero squeak

As the others have said, the runout must be measured on the car. Turning the rotor makes it true/flat but that does not remove runout caused by the hub being out. All you need is a dial gauge and some pop cans to cut up for shims. Try to get it below .005 total runout. Make sure the wheel nuts are all on with some washers under them to ensure they torque down properly without the rim installed.

As per one of the above posters, grease, Teflon... etc are nothing but temporary band aids.

Last edited by Retro78; Jul 7, 2011 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 10:39 AM
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Whatever.... It working for me. And, I didn't have to remove everything and do any shimming or machining. I have no "pulsing" in the brake pedal when stopping, so runout isn't a "problem", even though the brake system design won't tolerate ANY.

"Different strokes for different folks..."
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