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AC rebuild time again

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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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Default AC rebuild time again

I completely replaced all my AC parts about 14 years ago.
Compressor, condenser, evaporator, VIR valve, and all the hoses.
Well now my compressor has locked up and the clutch came apart so it is time again.
Has anyone replaced an older system with a newer system?
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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Yeah, I'd like to know too. Especially with the new stuff, R-134a?
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:21 AM
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I've heard that a parallel flow condenser works better if you switch to 134a. Are you gonna keep the A6 or move to a Sanden compressor? It seems to me there is a company that makes a back end for the Sanden that allows using existing hoses on our ac systems, I'll have a look tomorrow and post back what I find.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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No insight for your A/C question but at least it's not HOT in Mi. right now!!!
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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I'm listening. My thoughts are to replace my stock system with the Vintage Air unit - hopefully next year.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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As promised, here is the info on the a/c parts:

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/

These guys have the backs for the sanden I was talking about. They also sell the compressors as well, and have kits for older cars.

http://www.ackits.com/c/Parallel/Par...+Aluminum.html

This is where I found the parallel flow condensers.

Last edited by Drawmain; Jul 19, 2011 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Added info
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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As recommended by another '73 owner in this forum - converting to '79 style a/c is the way to go. (Along with the Sanden compressor / parallel condenser, R134). So, all you need to change (in addition to the aforementioned) is the evaporator to '79.

This gets rid of the VIR, etc...

I'm in the middle of doing this to my '73. Here's a pic



my .02

Last edited by udornf4; Jul 19, 2011 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Do you have to change the control panel?
Thanks for the information. I would like to use the Sanden compressor and the parallel condenser. Just want to know a little more about how it will hook up to my stuff.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:17 PM
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saw this at Zip - 73-77 AC VIR Eliminator Kit


Thanks Drawman, didn't realize the link was not working.

Last edited by eagle275; Jul 20, 2011 at 12:01 AM. Reason: add
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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Looks like what Eagle275 posted, plus the sanden and the parallel flow will get you where you want to be. Take some time and get the parts list together, and I bet you'll have exactly what you need to have a great A/C without having to get a kit and change your controls.

Here is that Zip link again, this one should be clickable :

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...HP-CS&CTitle=&
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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From: Waterford Mi
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Just an update.
I ordered the kit without the evaporator from the link above and the VIR eliminator from Zip.
Thanks for the info and I will post pics when I get the parts.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Been working on the install. I have to check the hood clearance for the compressor fittings. The drawings show the fittings mounting on the top of the compressor. Not sure they will clear the under side of the hood. If I turn the compressor sideways I will not be able to attach the charging hoses. The VIR Eliminator has charging ports on the low pressure side which can be used but do I need to have one on the high side?
udornf4, I do not see your hoses in your pic, are they on the bottom?
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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Here are some pictures for now:
New parallel flow condenser, I used the original mounting brackets. (15"x27" painted black)

New 709 compressor and mounts




New VIR Eliminator

Not all the hoses are connected yet. The cycle switch attaches to one of the ports on the top.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 11:21 PM
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Default Just completed!

I am happy to report that I just finished my conversion today using a VIR eliminator! A few notes to pass along:

1. I am truly very happy with the performance of the AC system now. Colder than has ever been!
2. Total cost for me to convert my system was $205. This includes the R134 conversion fittings (high and low side) and the PAG oil and the freon. Also the VIR Eliminator, new hose and a complete set of o rings.
3. Make sure that you check the orientation of the Evap line and the compressor line coming in to the VIR. This is key because the new accumulator will need to have the same set up. ONLY ONE that I have found was the one sold by Nostalgic Air! Please pay attention of the accumulators on line while you are shopping. You'll see that they have different hook up orientations.
4. I am sure you already know this, but I will state the obvious. The pressure switch you currently have is on the high side line and is intended to be a safety switch for the system. The new VIR eliminator will also include a new switch. Both are needed in the new system. The new switch is for the low pressure line and controls the compressor. Both switches are in the same power line to the compressor.

Good luck
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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My current setup had no switches in it.
I will be using the switch supplied with the VIR Eliminator valve.
The Eliminator vale came from Zip Products and is setup for the evaporator so I have the correct orientation. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 09:36 AM
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Note for R134, I would use a smaller orifice tube like the Ford Red .062 in place of the GM White .072.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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"Note for R134, I would use a smaller orifice tube like the Ford Red .062 in place of the GM White .072. "
why ?
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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If its not too late, you might want to add an electric fan in front of the condenser. I have been in a couple of vettes that have done this and to me its worth the time, money, and effort. I bought one for my 76 along with a parallel condenser but have been too busy to install it. Oh well, maybe I'll get it installed for next summer.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
why ?
The factory orifice tube is for R12. The Ford orifice tubes have 2 o-rings which helps w/ R134 so some shops are using them in GM systems.
Some factory a/c systems were converted to R134 by just reducing the orifice tube size.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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I may not understand, what orifice tube are you talking about? Are you talking about the orifice in the eliminator block?

The VIR Eliminator kit says that the switch is adjustable and it needs to be 1/4-1/2 turn for R134. This is to regulate the low pressure for cycling the compressor.
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