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Valve Cover Gaskets

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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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Default Valve Cover Gaskets

Just thought I would share this with you guys.

Ive had issues with valve cover gaskets for a LONG time - I have some mickey valve covers and aluminum heads that have just a slightly thinner lip than stock and for the last year I have had NOTHING but issues with getting a gasket that wouldnt blow out, leak out easily, or worst of all, get sucked in. Ive tried cork in multiple sizes, rubber in multiple sizes, and have had no luck. I swapped from a standard bolt to a stud setup, tried with and without RTV, etc.. no luck with one lasting more than about a month with light use.

I switched about a month ago to the Moroso 93020's instead of the in store fel-pro/mr gasket/etc, and WOW what a difference. These things were awesome feeling and with the studs instead of bolts I could see how much better they seemed to slide into place. Its been about a month of heavier than normal use and I have not had a SINGLE problem with them. No leaking, no blow out/suck in/etc.

Just thought I would reccomend this to others who have aftermarket valve covers who have also fought with leaking issues (or in my case complete oil spraying everywhere failure a few times..).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-93020/
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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Thank you for the info.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:50 PM
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You must be generating a lot of (un-vented) crankcase pressure if you're "blowing out" valve cover gaskets! All I have ever done is glue the stock-type Fel-Pro gaskets onto the (Whatever kind of covers I had) with 3M weatherstrip cement and they've never leaked or done anything else wierd...
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:54 AM
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I agree. Blow-out or sucked-in valve cover gaskets can't happen if the engine's crankcase is vented. A PCV valve system is one way to resolve that concern; or you can just put a breather on one valve cover. The PCV valve will keep any oil mist from gumming up the engine compartment, so I think that is the better option.

Once that issue is resolved, using a cork/synthetic rubber combination gasket (like Fel-Pro) will seal the covers just fine.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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I had the same problem and my local Auto Zome parts came up with the same set of gaskets you have. Same result, not one leak for the last 1,000 miles/year.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Mine never blew out, just would start leaking after several 100 miles.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
I agree. Blow-out or sucked-in valve cover gaskets can't happen if the engine's crankcase is vented. A PCV valve system is one way to resolve that concern; or you can just put a breather on one valve cover. The PCV valve will keep any oil mist from gumming up the engine compartment, so I think that is the better option.

Once that issue is resolved, using a cork/synthetic rubber combination gasket (like Fel-Pro) will seal the covers just fine.
I have the PCV hooked up to one cover and a breather on the other and was still having issues with this. I think it was mostly due to the valve covers not being exactly perfect plus the rather small lip on the heads I am using.

And blowing out wasnt nearly as much of a problem as being sucked in. Thats normally what would happen after a few days worth of driving.

Last edited by Kevins77; Jul 19, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 06:16 PM
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As a side note, a lot of cheap valve cover gaskets work much better if you glue them in place on the valve covers before you fit them.

Any light duty glue will do, I think I've used spray mount, Copydex (I don't know what the equivalent is in America) although the best seems to be kids glue pens (not Pritt Stick).
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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If you want to put a sealer on your valve cover gaskets, I suggest that you use Permatex #2. It will seal well, but not completely harden so that you can separate the gasket without it getting torn up or making a big mess to clean up. When using it (and anytime you want a gasket to seal), you must first clean all oil/grease/dirt off both of the mating surfaces and wipe them clean/dry with some good solvent like lacquer thinner. Then, put a light wipe of Permatex #2 on one side of the gasket and let dry a bit, then do the same on the other side. Place the gasket on the cylinder head surface and then add the cover. Install retaining bolts [with load spreaders, if it is a sheet metal cover] and tighten finger tight. Further tighten the bolts in a circular pattern, in increments of 1/3 of the specified torque per round until reaching rated torque. DO NOT apply more bolt torque than the manufacture specifies! {This is the #1 reason for leaky valve covers} Let the joint set up overnight before using the engine/car. The valve covers will be leak free.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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I think every different valve cover/head combo has its own unique gasket sealing problems. I tried those expensive rubber-over-steel-frame FelPro gaskets and they leaked. I switched to the $12 cork/rubber type and they've been holding in the oil all summer. I have mid 60's double hump heads with GMPP's cast covers using studs and gluing the gasket to the cover using Edelbrock Gasgacinch. So far, so good.

Luckily, I have a hydraulic cam and won't need to frequently pull the covers to re-adjust the tappets.
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