When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ive had issues with valve cover gaskets for a LONG time - I have some mickey valve covers and aluminum heads that have just a slightly thinner lip than stock and for the last year I have had NOTHING but issues with getting a gasket that wouldnt blow out, leak out easily, or worst of all, get sucked in. Ive tried cork in multiple sizes, rubber in multiple sizes, and have had no luck. I swapped from a standard bolt to a stud setup, tried with and without RTV, etc.. no luck with one lasting more than about a month with light use.
I switched about a month ago to the Moroso 93020's instead of the in store fel-pro/mr gasket/etc, and WOW what a difference. These things were awesome feeling and with the studs instead of bolts I could see how much better they seemed to slide into place. Its been about a month of heavier than normal use and I have not had a SINGLE problem with them. No leaking, no blow out/suck in/etc.
Just thought I would reccomend this to others who have aftermarket valve covers who have also fought with leaking issues (or in my case complete oil spraying everywhere failure a few times..).
You must be generating a lot of (un-vented) crankcase pressure if you're "blowing out" valve cover gaskets! All I have ever done is glue the stock-type Fel-Pro gaskets onto the (Whatever kind of covers I had) with 3M weatherstrip cement and they've never leaked or done anything else wierd...
I agree. Blow-out or sucked-in valve cover gaskets can't happen if the engine's crankcase is vented. A PCV valve system is one way to resolve that concern; or you can just put a breather on one valve cover. The PCV valve will keep any oil mist from gumming up the engine compartment, so I think that is the better option.
Once that issue is resolved, using a cork/synthetic rubber combination gasket (like Fel-Pro) will seal the covers just fine.
I had the same problem and my local Auto Zome parts came up with the same set of gaskets you have. Same result, not one leak for the last 1,000 miles/year.
I agree. Blow-out or sucked-in valve cover gaskets can't happen if the engine's crankcase is vented. A PCV valve system is one way to resolve that concern; or you can just put a breather on one valve cover. The PCV valve will keep any oil mist from gumming up the engine compartment, so I think that is the better option.
Once that issue is resolved, using a cork/synthetic rubber combination gasket (like Fel-Pro) will seal the covers just fine.
I have the PCV hooked up to one cover and a breather on the other and was still having issues with this. I think it was mostly due to the valve covers not being exactly perfect plus the rather small lip on the heads I am using.
And blowing out wasnt nearly as much of a problem as being sucked in. Thats normally what would happen after a few days worth of driving.
Last edited by Kevins77; Jul 19, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
As a side note, a lot of cheap valve cover gaskets work much better if you glue them in place on the valve covers before you fit them.
Any light duty glue will do, I think I've used spray mount, Copydex (I don't know what the equivalent is in America) although the best seems to be kids glue pens (not Pritt Stick).
If you want to put a sealer on your valve cover gaskets, I suggest that you use Permatex #2. It will seal well, but not completely harden so that you can separate the gasket without it getting torn up or making a big mess to clean up. When using it (and anytime you want a gasket to seal), you must first clean all oil/grease/dirt off both of the mating surfaces and wipe them clean/dry with some good solvent like lacquer thinner. Then, put a light wipe of Permatex #2 on one side of the gasket and let dry a bit, then do the same on the other side. Place the gasket on the cylinder head surface and then add the cover. Install retaining bolts [with load spreaders, if it is a sheet metal cover] and tighten finger tight. Further tighten the bolts in a circular pattern, in increments of 1/3 of the specified torque per round until reaching rated torque. DO NOT apply more bolt torque than the manufacture specifies! {This is the #1 reason for leaky valve covers} Let the joint set up overnight before using the engine/car. The valve covers will be leak free.
I think every different valve cover/head combo has its own unique gasket sealing problems. I tried those expensive rubber-over-steel-frame FelPro gaskets and they leaked. I switched to the $12 cork/rubber type and they've been holding in the oil all summer. I have mid 60's double hump heads with GMPP's cast covers using studs and gluing the gasket to the cover using Edelbrock Gasgacinch. So far, so good.
Luckily, I have a hydraulic cam and won't need to frequently pull the covers to re-adjust the tappets.