Outside Door Handle Replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
Outside Door Handle Replacement
Good evening members.
I recently purchased two outside door handles for my '75 coupe. I'm currently changing out the interior (red to black) and while the door panels are off I would like to replace them now.
I have large hands (not braggin' just sayin'). What is the technique for disconnecting the rod(s) from the handle?
This is one of those times when employing my wife's small hands looks like a good move and I think my gear wrench will handle the two nuts that hold it in place. I just want to make sure I am comfortable with the steps to disconnect everything from the handle.
Thanks...for any guidance. You are all appreciated.
I recently purchased two outside door handles for my '75 coupe. I'm currently changing out the interior (red to black) and while the door panels are off I would like to replace them now.
I have large hands (not braggin' just sayin'). What is the technique for disconnecting the rod(s) from the handle?
This is one of those times when employing my wife's small hands looks like a good move and I think my gear wrench will handle the two nuts that hold it in place. I just want to make sure I am comfortable with the steps to disconnect everything from the handle.
Thanks...for any guidance. You are all appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
First, after you remove the door panel, also remove the access panel cover. The reason for this is because you will probably drop a nut or clip. (Have a magnetic pick-up tool handy.)
Then, unhook the rod and clip that prevents you from getting your hand in there, and move the rod out of the way (I think this is the inside lock rod).
Insert the handle rod into the bottom of the door handle and drop both into place. Finger tighten the nut onto the stud closest to you. Back it out till the nut just holds on- you need to have enough "play" to move the handle up. Then attach the second nut to the second stud- this is the hardest part and is where small hands are helpful. If you leave the first nut barely on and pull on the handle from above, you should be able to slip the nut into place, then push down on the handle and turn the nut once or twice with your fingers. Then you can tighten with a wrench.
Then, slip the handle rod into the hole, and attach the clip with a long needle-nose. Re-attach the inside lock handle and clip and you are done.
Hope this helps.
Then, unhook the rod and clip that prevents you from getting your hand in there, and move the rod out of the way (I think this is the inside lock rod).
Insert the handle rod into the bottom of the door handle and drop both into place. Finger tighten the nut onto the stud closest to you. Back it out till the nut just holds on- you need to have enough "play" to move the handle up. Then attach the second nut to the second stud- this is the hardest part and is where small hands are helpful. If you leave the first nut barely on and pull on the handle from above, you should be able to slip the nut into place, then push down on the handle and turn the nut once or twice with your fingers. Then you can tighten with a wrench.
Then, slip the handle rod into the hole, and attach the clip with a long needle-nose. Re-attach the inside lock handle and clip and you are done.
Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,245
Likes: 470
From: Glen Allen, VA
the real trick is to take the screws out of the latch on the door. removing them will let the latch drop down and give you more room to work with. I've done both of my outside handles and by doing that trick, I don't remember it being a real problem at all. Thanks to this forum for that tip!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 64
From: Kissimmee fl
Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '07
the real trick is to take the screws out of the latch on the door. removing them will let the latch drop down and give you more room to work with. I've done both of my outside handles and by doing that trick, I don't remember it being a real problem at all. Thanks to this forum for that tip!
This also a good time to clean out all of the old grease and dirt from the latch and re-lube it. Makes a big difference. 
One more thing. Do not reinstall the door panel till you have tried closing the door and reopened it a couple of times.
Last edited by c69vete; Jul 23, 2011 at 10:24 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,108
Likes: 4,170
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi k,
I'll suggest that you take a picture or two before/as you disassemble so you have some references as you begin to put the mechanism back together and adjust the linkages.
Having the page from the AIM in the garage would be a help too.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I'll suggest that you take a picture or two before/as you disassemble so you have some references as you begin to put the mechanism back together and adjust the linkages.
Having the page from the AIM in the garage would be a help too.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
C34ME is correct. Take the 3 screws out of the latch mechanism (rear end face of the door), then drop the plate down and use a lower bolt hole to fit one screw back into an upper hole in the plate. That will keep it retained (so no chance of it dropping), but out of the way while you are working on it.
If you still have the plastic anti-theft cover installed over that lock plate (2 screws: one on door end face and one on door inner face), it WILL come out of that little access hole IF you can get those screws out. Those screws are notorious for rusting in place in the little threaded plates which are riveted to that plastic piece. And being plastic, you can't put any real torque to the screws without tearing up the plastic. So, use a lot of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster; let it soak a day or two and give it a try. If they won't break loose, you may just have to drill the screws out. Most folks throw those covers away the first time they need to be removed, anyway. (But not me, of course; I go out of my way to find a missing one and rebuild the other...just so I can be totally frustrated when I have to remove them the next time. But the factory put them on so they must be there!!!)
If you still have the plastic anti-theft cover installed over that lock plate (2 screws: one on door end face and one on door inner face), it WILL come out of that little access hole IF you can get those screws out. Those screws are notorious for rusting in place in the little threaded plates which are riveted to that plastic piece. And being plastic, you can't put any real torque to the screws without tearing up the plastic. So, use a lot of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster; let it soak a day or two and give it a try. If they won't break loose, you may just have to drill the screws out. Most folks throw those covers away the first time they need to be removed, anyway. (But not me, of course; I go out of my way to find a missing one and rebuild the other...just so I can be totally frustrated when I have to remove them the next time. But the factory put them on so they must be there!!!)
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
HELP. I've gotten to the point of removing the handle rod but can't get it disconnected. There is a bent (factory not me) end that goes into the bottom of the handle mechanism. There is what looks like a threaded end that goes into round connection. Which end do I disconnect and how please?
Thanks...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
Just a quick note to tell you how much I appreciate the information.
The 7/8" gear wrench made the removal of the nuts as easy as possible. The nut replacement was equally easy which was pure dumb luck.
My hands are torn up and this is another learning process that I will pay forward.
Thanks to you and everyone for your information.
Kirk
The 7/8" gear wrench made the removal of the nuts as easy as possible. The nut replacement was equally easy which was pure dumb luck.
My hands are torn up and this is another learning process that I will pay forward.
Thanks to you and everyone for your information.
Kirk
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Hoover Alabama
same issue
Guys....
HELP. I've gotten to the point of removing the handle rod but can't get it disconnected. There is a bent (factory not me) end that goes into the bottom of the handle mechanism. There is what looks like a threaded end that goes into round connection. Which end do I disconnect and how please?
Thanks...
HELP. I've gotten to the point of removing the handle rod but can't get it disconnected. There is a bent (factory not me) end that goes into the bottom of the handle mechanism. There is what looks like a threaded end that goes into round connection. Which end do I disconnect and how please?
Thanks...
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,108
Likes: 4,170
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi l,
The rod can't be disconnected from the handle without disconnecting the fitting's clip at the other end of the rod from it's (the fitting's)connection to the latching mechanism. The clip holds the fitting to the latch.
Once the fitting is fee from the latch you can pull the handle, with the rod still connected, up out of the door; put the old rod on the new handle; put it back in the door, hook the fitting to the latch and put the clip in place.
Easy HUH!
Happy New Year!
Regards,
Alan
The rod can't be disconnected from the handle without disconnecting the fitting's clip at the other end of the rod from it's (the fitting's)connection to the latching mechanism. The clip holds the fitting to the latch.
Once the fitting is fee from the latch you can pull the handle, with the rod still connected, up out of the door; put the old rod on the new handle; put it back in the door, hook the fitting to the latch and put the clip in place.
Easy HUH!
Happy New Year!
Regards,
Alan
