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I'm sure this has been discussed many times before, but does anyone mill for added compression, or just to true? My 77 L48 is about to receive a new intake (Edelbrock Performer), cam yet undetermined, and I will pull the heads.
With 68000 miles, compression is good but I thought I would do a mild port and polish, a three-angle valve job, and possibly take 60 thousands off the surface. Do understand, I'm an "old rodder" and this was acceptable practice,
back when.
I know these heads are dogs (76cc?), but I want to keep them since all other numbers match. Obviously, port alignment will change between the intake and head, but are there other considerations?
The 77 is very sound and I've done a lot of repair regarding suspension, steering, etc. but now I would like for it to feel and sound like a Corvette, even though it is one of the doggier years.
Any suggestions regarding cam? It is 4 - speed and will be street driven only.
All advice I've received from the Forum has been most appreciated.
Bill
You probably have 882 heads & you can mill them. Comp Cams 268H will work w/ stock valve springs. XE262 is similar w/ more ex. duration & needs springs.
What's ex.?
Put the stock heads on the bench and buy a set of heads that will flow. By the time you Magna flux (check heads) polish and mill the heads you will have almost bought yourself a new set. Numbers matching is great, but it will have a few draw backs. Such as, can your pistons, rods and crank handle the added compression, higher octane gas prices and you still have poor flowing heads. All the HP comes from the heads. Just my .02
I 2nd or 3rd that ( whichever is politically correct! ) on the Comp Cam 268HE
CAM If you are going to stay with your stock heads. this cam has "GREAT"
low-end torque and good mid-range. Just my 2 cents.
I've got milled heads and larger valves in my engine. Let me reinforce what has been said above. You will have as much in your 882 heads as what a better flowing set will cost.
World Products Sportsman II heads are good bang for the buck.
In aluminum, the AFR heads have been used and enjoyed by a lot of folks on the forum.
If you mill the heads and/or deck the block, make sure to take the same amount off of the bottom of the intake so the ports will match and it will not "bow" when you tighten it. If it bows, it will pull oil from the valley and can have vacuum leaks. :chevy
i'm running an XE 262 in my auto trans(700r4) 79 vette. i did not do the engine work, but the machine shop milled my orig heads to get them flat, they also did 3 angle, and some dish work in conjunction with rebuilding the rest of the engine. I run 87 octane pump gas most of the time, last fall the "winter" blend came out and i got some rattling,so i went with 89 octane. I would like to get some better breathing heads,but money is a factor. when i had my engine rebuilt the machine shop guy said they could get the original heads worked up a lot cheaper than buying new heads, and save me some money. unless you're building a real hot machine or have money to burn I would just re-use the orig heads. JMHO
iron heads can be found much cheaper than shop work per flow number ! many on the forum are running them...around $400-$600 I think for *iron* heads.
if you got the extra money, anywhere from $750--1100 will get you some nice *aluminum* heads...lighter weight (I saved well over 80lbs total in light weight *aluminum* on my engine, heads, intake, pulleys, water pump, etc) and nice flow numbers and blot on performance. :yesnod:
If you mill the heads and/or deck the block, make sure to take the same amount off of the bottom of the intake so the ports will match and it will not "bow" when you tighten it. If it bows, it will pull oil from the valley and can have vacuum leaks. :chevy
A slight correction to what was stated above. If you mill off of the heads and/or deck the block, you do NOT take the SAME off of the intake side. For every .010" you take off the heads/block, you need to take .0123" off of the intake manifold to head mating (either the head side or the intake manifold side) and .0167" off of the intake manifold to block mating (usually from the intake manifold).