The power door locks on my 82 do not work. It hasn't been much of an issue since I can lock the doors for security but now that I'm contemplating selling the car, I'd like to get this fixed. Here's what I know so far:

The driver's side lock mechanism does not work if you try to pull on the the lock to open or close from the inside. You can lock/unlock with the key. There is power to the switch in both the lock and unlock position and you can set the alarm if pressing the power switch to the lock position even though the doors are not locked.

The passenger side can be locked manually from the inside and outside with the key. There is power to the switch but it will not engage the lock. The mechanism moves freely.

I have not tested the actuator. Does each door have one? Which one is most likely the cause? I suspect my issue is with the driver's side since that is the one that's bound up.

Even though I have power at the switches, could the plug in or the pigtail still be bad?

I've had the driver's side door panel off and if you reach in to move the mechanism, it's stiff but can be moved. I've tried lubing it in places but no help.

I'm sure this problem has happened to someone and any and all help, as always, is greatly appreciated.

 

The switches in the power door locks are wired in such a way that BOTH switches must work for either of them to work. Normally, one or both of the switches is corroded or broken.

Buy two new switches -- you can buy cheaper ones without the work LOCK on them if you want to prove that it is the problem.

 

If the switches are old replace both. Its possible one of the switches is leaking voltage and holding your drivers actuator.
Disconnecting both switches and trying to operate manually will rule out the leaking voltage.
When this lock system starts corroding it starts operating very weird.
You might have to replace both pigtails at the switches also.
If you do this pay close attention to wire color and position of each wire on the switch-position meaning the letter designation on the switch.A B C D E
If you have trouble with different colored pigtail wires let me know and I'll see if I can help.

 

I just finished doing exactly this repair about 10 minutes ago. I opened the driver side door panel to replace switch. As it turns out , one of the lock switch wire connector wires had broken off the connector. I very carefully pried the back of the connector off, removed the metal fitting that had become separated. I soldered the fitting back on to the wire, replaced it in the switch housing and fitted the back of the connector on to the switch. I reconnected the battery and checked it with the lock switch and it worked fine. Pretty easy, all in all.

 

You might take a look at the amp gauge with the key on and see if it deflects when you hit the lock button.... This will tell you if the switch is working.

The driver's side lock mechanism does not work if you try to pull on the the lock to open or close from the inside.

This sounds to me as if you have the latch mechinsim in a bind. Even if the actuator is bad or the switch is bad you should still be able to operate the system manually. I think I would take a hard look at the actual door latch and maybe remove it to clean and re-grease. Check all the rods and make sure they are not in bind too!

Willcox

 

I have the exact same issue with my 82, power locks do not work and drivers door **** wont move but the door will lock/unlock with the key. Did you figure out your problem Tally?

 

Have the same problem with my 79. I cut the wires out and poped the rivet on the actuators dont really see the point in electric locks when you can reach both from the drivers seat. haha Now im working on moving the window switch to that ugly hole in the door.

 

The gauge does not deflect with either switch activated in either the lock or unlock position. I did get the mechanism to free up and I can now lock the door manually from the inside. It always worked fine using the key. I do think my lock rod is slightly bent but it is no longer binding.

I have 12V at the pigtail connector on the driver's side. The last time I checked the passenger side I had 12V there as well. The odd thing with the switches is I can activate the alarm if I press lock even though the doors don't lock.

Do you think one or both of my switches are bad? Thanks for everyone's input.

 

I pulled my drivers door switch and the switch and connecter had much corrosion. It left a green residue. I have ordered new switches and I cleaned out the connecter. My lock rod is also slightly bent, I'm guessing from po trying to force it. When the new switch comes in I'll work on the rod. Didnt check the passenger switch yet.

 

I had some green goo corrosion on the driver's side switch as well. I cleaned it and wire brushed the pins to no avail. I guess I'll order some switches myself and see if that fixes it.

 

Fixed mine today. Got the new switches in and installed the drivers side and nothing. Pulled the passenger panel and that switch had a little corrosion but nothing compared to the drivers side. Cleaned the connecter out and noticed the ground was loose. Tightened the ground and put the new switch in and only the drivers door worked. Realized that maybe the old switch might work with the ground tight, tried it and it did but still just the drivers door from both switches. Opened the access panel into the door and the passenger actuator was not connected, plug fell off. Reattached and it all works fine.

 

I received my new switches today. I hope to get them installed tonight. I'll let everyone what happened. Thanks for all of your inputs. That's what makes this forum great.

 

WOOHOO!!!! The switches did the trick. The passenger side switch was the bad guy. I replaced them both anyway. I got the ones with LOCK on the bezel so it would still look factory correct.

Next up is getting the AC converted to 134a and working.

Thanks again to everyone that enlisted their help.

 

Have a 80 vette,,,, adding electric door locks ( not really sure what I was getting myself in to here) and I now have three different wiring diagrams
,, two did nothing but blowing fuses and the third has the drivers door working fine,, now the passengers door,, it will only unlock the door but when you go to lock it blows the fuse.
Yes all wiring gone over for shorts.
anybody got a fourth wiring diagram

 

My 82 door locks didn't work for over 10 years. A little oil on the actuators, worked them back and forth many times and both plugs going to the switches where in bad shape with broken wires! I ordered new pig tails for each side (they are different pass/driver) soldier everything with shrink wrap and good as new!

 

Bare in mind the car never had door locks,, I added them with new buttons, new actuators, new pig tails,, then added the necessary wiring to make it happen. The wiring diagram I first received seemed easy enough to have me pursuing this adventure. But now I am just falling short of my goal.