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Hey, I have a corvette 427 tripower l71 (tank sticker), and I need some engine advice. I need a new engine for this car, and I was thinking about putting a new chevy 427 engine inside of it. http://www.automotix.net/engines/196...c_427lb_3.html.
1. Will the tripower intake fit onto this engine, or does it only fit on the original block made for this car?
2. What is the difference between this engine and the original engine. This is a rebuilt chevy 427 engine made for 66-69.
L-71's were 4 bolt main block and rectangular port heads. That engine most likely is a 2 bolt main block and has oval port heads. For that price it's most likely a 390 hp engine.
You need to find out more about it to learn what it actually is. Casting numbers will be a big help.
Why can't your L-71 be rebuilt?
Last edited by 1Fordman; Aug 17, 2011 at 11:49 PM.
L-71's were 4 bolt main block and rectangular port heads. That engine most likely is a 2 bolt main block and has oval port heads. For that price it's most likely a 390 hp engine.
You need to find out more about it to learn what it actually is. Casting numbers will be a big help.
Why can't your L-71 be rebuilt?
How about if I get the oval port tripower intake. Will that fit onto that engine.
That looks like a generic, low cost, possibly low quality long block. At that price I'd be very suspicious. Whether it 'fits' or not might be the least of your worries.
By the nature of your question, I'm guessing you don't have much experience with engines. WHY do you need a complete new engine?
It's not the original engine, but it is the correct engine. Do you think I should rebuild this correct engine or buy a new one. Financially, it is a lot cheaper to buy a new one.
Think I'd be a little suspicious of a BB short block for that kind of money. Since your engines not original anyway, probably go bigger with a 4 bbl. Tri powers look pretty, but a well set up Q-Jet usually spank's em'. Just got an e-mail from Speedway Motors and has they're Blueprint series 496 100% crate motor for $4500 bucks. Look's like a good one, with all the right stuff. Built my share of engines, and believe me, you can burn through lot's of cash doing it right.
You get what you pay for. Yes your tripower will fit. You WANT a Hi-perf Pass engine, it's easily identified by the "Hi Perf Pass" casting on the driver's side rear behind the cylinder head. What's is wrong with yours? Watch out for "Truck" motors, that's not what you want. Let us know why you think you need an engine, and we'll steer you in the right direction...
You get what you pay for. Yes your tripower will fit. You WANT a Hi-perf Pass engine, it's easily identified by the "Hi Perf Pass" casting on the driver's side rear behind the cylinder head. What's is wrong with yours? Watch out for "Truck" motors, that's not what you want. Let us know why you think you need an engine, and we'll steer you in the right direction...
This car is a project car, and according to the tank sticker it is an L71 1968 Corvette 427 Tripower. The engine in it is shot and it is not original. It is correct though. My choices are either to rebuild this one, or buy a new one. I want to keep this car very original, but financially it cost a lot more to rebuild the engine than buy a new one.
This car is a project car, and according to the tank sticker it is an L71 1968 Corvette 427 Tripower. The engine in it is shot and it is not original. It is correct though. My choices are either to rebuild this one, or buy a new one. I want to keep this car very original, but financially it cost a lot more to rebuild the engine than buy a new one.
Found myself in the same situation. 69 tripower L68. The motor is correct but not original. I wanted to go faster which I thought might be hard on the L68 2 bolt. So I had a new short block built and put my heads, intake, and carbs on. Now I have a car to play with and a correct block to rebuild when time and cash allow. Added bonus if your block is really correct enough you can restamp the correct serial and now you have "numbers matching". "HI PERF PASS" stamped block cost me $400 I think thats a good price. The cost of the rest depends on what you want. In the end I spent $6000. Sure wish I could drive it!
My troubles revolve around set up with new comp cam and the tripowers. Making big power but I think its running lean. I am having trouble getting help/knowledge.
My vote, new short and rebuild original to spec and fix the numbers.
This car is a project car, and according to the tank sticker it is an L71 1968 Corvette 427 Tripower. The engine in it is shot and it is not original. It is correct though. My choices are either to rebuild this one, or buy a new one. I want to keep this car very original, but financially it cost a lot more to rebuild the engine than buy a new one.
The reason it costs more to build yours is because it would be done better and most likely with better parts.
You own a very desirable car. Don't cheap out on the engine.
This car is a project car, and according to the tank sticker it is an L71 1968 Corvette 427 Tripower. The engine in it is shot and it is not original. It is correct though. My choices are either to rebuild this one, or buy a new one. I want to keep this car very original, but financially it cost a lot more to rebuild the engine than buy a new one.
A car can only be 'original' once. You are 'restoring' yours. The closer you get to a correct restoration the more it will cost. Buying an unknown engine with unknown numbers contradicts what you claim you want to do.
Originally Posted by AvRog
Added bonus if your block is really correct enough you can restamp the correct serial and now you have "numbers matching".........
My vote, new short and rebuild original to spec and fix the numbers.
Found myself in the same situation. 69 tripower L68. The motor is correct but not original. I wanted to go faster which I thought might be hard on the L68 2 bolt. So I had a new short block built and put my heads, intake, and carbs on. Now I have a car to play with and a correct block to rebuild when time and cash allow. Added bonus if your block is really correct enough you can restamp the correct serial and now you have "numbers matching". "HI PERF PASS" stamped block cost me $400 I think thats a good price. The cost of the rest depends on what you want. In the end I spent $6000. Sure wish I could drive it!
My troubles revolve around set up with new comp cam and the tripowers. Making big power but I think its running lean. I am having trouble getting help/knowledge.
My vote, new short and rebuild original to spec and fix the numbers.
Good Luck, Rog.
If your going to lie about your car anyway, why not go all the way and make another L88. I think that would make number 5446 of the 80, L88's made in 68.