how do i replace rear spring cushions
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
how do i replace rear spring cushions
whats the procedure to replace the spring cushions on a stock '72?
where is the best place to jack/compress?
from underneath or remove wheel?
any hints/tips?
thanks
where is the best place to jack/compress?
from underneath or remove wheel?
any hints/tips?
thanks
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 5
From: punta gorda florida
cushionc
underneath is probably the easy way put rear on jack stands clamp a block of wood to spring on side your working on about a 6in. piece of 2by4 will work use jack on wood keeps your jack from slipping on spring relieve tension on spring loosen nut replace cushion.
Keep in mind there is alot of pressure on spring so just be carefull when first jacking up on spring not really that hard at all
Keep in mind there is alot of pressure on spring so just be carefull when first jacking up on spring not really that hard at all
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,850
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
In figure 1 if you look hard... you'll see that we've used Channel Loc pliers on the spring to prevent the jack from sliding up the spring while we compress it. We since have changed this to clamping a 3" section of L channel on there but a good set of channel locks will work fine. A bottle jack works best since it affords you more room.
The factory rear spring cushion bolts are a castle nut design with a cotter pin and will only go in one place. If you have the non factory adjustable rear spring bolts then just as Mike said, you'll need to count the turns to remove the nuts and make sure you go back in/or around the same position.
Factory Rear Spring Bolts:
The factory rear spring cushion bolts are a castle nut design with a cotter pin and will only go in one place. If you have the non factory adjustable rear spring bolts then just as Mike said, you'll need to count the turns to remove the nuts and make sure you go back in/or around the same position.
Factory Rear Spring Bolts:
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Aug 26, 2011 at 12:12 PM.
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: Clayton NC
Good luck with your project. I will be doing the same thing in a couple of weeks. Perhaps you could post some before and after photos. We all like pictures.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,360
Likes: 221
From: Beecher Illinois
I've found on my Corvettes that when it's up on stands and the suspension is hanging there's very little pressure on the spring ends. I actually had to push DOWN on the ends to get the bolts in place because of the angle with the suspension relaxed.
Once the bolt and cushions were in place I did jack up the spring ends a little to get the nuts and cotter pins in place.
If you have a rear stabilizer you'll need to remove the bracket on the trailing arm to get the spring bolt out'
edit....this was with gymkhana springs which don't have the big arch like the standard spring.
Once the bolt and cushions were in place I did jack up the spring ends a little to get the nuts and cotter pins in place.
If you have a rear stabilizer you'll need to remove the bracket on the trailing arm to get the spring bolt out'
edit....this was with gymkhana springs which don't have the big arch like the standard spring.
Last edited by KapsSA; Aug 26, 2011 at 09:04 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
Likes: 4,236
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
I've used the same method as show in the Willcox pictures.
Except that I used a floor jack instead of the bottle jack.
You do need to be sure the clamp holds the jack pad or block of wood in place or else the jack wants to slide toward the center of the spring.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I've used the same method as show in the Willcox pictures.
Except that I used a floor jack instead of the bottle jack.
You do need to be sure the clamp holds the jack pad or block of wood in place or else the jack wants to slide toward the center of the spring.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 406
Likes: 46
From: Lebanon OH
I used a C-clamp, piece of 1"x4", and a floor jack. I replaced my old bushings with new rubber ones, but reused the bolt and nut. I replaced the top and bottom, so I took the bolt out completely. The bolt didn't line up completely with the hole in the leaf spring, so I had to lift the trailing arm to get the bolt end through the hole. For me, the bolt didn't stick through enough to put the bushing, nut, and washer on it. What I did was put 5 1/2" washers on the bolt, then the large bushing washer and nut. I drew that up to the end of the threads, adjusted the floor jack, and slowly unscrewed the bolt. After I removed the washers, I was able to get everything on the bolt and draw it up. Good luck.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
thanks everyone for your advice
i was trying with only the jack pushing on the spring and it looked like it was bending
ended up with a piece of wood about a 1-1/2 foot long to spread the load
hardest part was the brake lines were over the top holes hindering the removal of the bolts
i was trying with only the jack pushing on the spring and it looked like it was bending
ended up with a piece of wood about a 1-1/2 foot long to spread the load
hardest part was the brake lines were over the top holes hindering the removal of the bolts
