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im gonna hook an air pump up to the back of my heater/ac controls to force air in every hose so i can listen under the hood for a leak.....good idea? bad?
Hi j,
Remember, the vacuum tends to suck the hose connections tighter; it doesn't try to blow them off like air pump will.
Often vacuum hose connections can be improved by cutting about 1/2" off each end of each hose.
Regards,
Alan
Keep in mind, maximum vacuum possible is 30" hg, or minus 15 psi. Start going anywhere close to this positive, and you'll be finding plenty of HVAC system vacuum motor diaphram leaks, as you'll be making them. I normally just take the time diagnosing individual components with a small hand Mity-Vac tool.
ok... i got a mity vac.... i have no vacuum at the heater control on any of the 4 tubes coming out of it... and 1 looks like its missing... im guessing thats not good.....
If you have access to a assembly manual it should have what you need. If not then should get one if you can. I did and it has saved me countless times.
i found one online... i traced all the hoses and there is one hard plastic tube broken running along the firewall towards the drivers side... there is no where to plug it in to.... still stumped why there is no vacuum at all in any of the 4 lines that attach to the heater control..
Bad idea for air pressure...unless the air is very low pressure. Vacuum in the system is less than 20" Hg [about 8psi], so anything much over that in 'positive' pressure might damage some components.
It would be much simpler to buy a vacuum gauge and "T" it into the main vacuum feed line. Start the engine, let it idle, then take a vacuum gauge reading. Now, clamp off the vacuum line just past the T for the gauge. If the reading is significantly higher, there is a leak somewhere downstream of the gauge. Just keep moving the "cut off" clamp farther down the line until you see that the result is lower than before. Between the last two 'clamping' points, there is a vacuum leak.
Continue that process until you've found and fixed all the leaks.
i found one online... i traced all the hoses and there is one hard plastic tube broken running along the firewall towards the drivers side... there is no where to plug it in to.... still stumped why there is no vacuum at all in any of the 4 lines that attach to the heater control..
Well, it's very simple.......there is a leak!!!!! If you test a line for it's ability to hold vacuum, and it won't hold any vacuum, you must inspect visually and manually to find out why. Sorry, but there really isn't any easy way around it.
While really not much to do with the original question, a little primer on vacuum.The atmosphere around us at sea level is about 14.7 psi of gasses weighing down on us. 80% nitrogen/20% oxygen to be close. 350 cu in engines cruising around with the carb plates mostly closed pull lost's of negitave pressure in the intake system, and manufactures take advantage of this energy for driving other components. Another note. Water boils at 212° Fahrenheit at sea level, and about 0° Fahrenheit at zero atmosphere/30” hg vacuum. Water’s an enemy to HVAC systems, so why a vacuums pulled to evacuate/boil out moisture on these systems during service.
thanks... i ordered a whole new hose kit.... i took the connector off the heater controls and tested all 4 lines... not 1 will hold vacuum.... seems like if just that 1 line was broken the others would still hold vacuum...
thanks... i ordered a whole new hose kit.... i took the connector off the heater controls and tested all 4 lines... not 1 will hold vacuum.... seems like if just that 1 line was broken the others would still hold vacuum...
This might sound weird, but........are you testing the lines from inside the car? If so, you are doing it backwards.