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79 Corvette just died... Need help

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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 11:36 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
It wasnt an hour before I drove it. I did it the day before, then I drove it for a an hour the following afternoon.

I'm not sure how either. But all I did was drain, replace filter, put in new stuff. I don't see how could've screwed it up.
Weird, what is the fluid level in your radiator?
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 11:42 PM
  #102  
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Are you sure you remembered to put the oil in???
Sure did look clear for coolant that had been mixed with oil. I would expect to see a more milky fluid.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Are you sure you remembered to put the oil in???
Sure did look clear for coolant that had been mixed with oil. I would expect to see a more milky fluid.
We filled 2 jugs with coolant before the oil came out, which was infact chocolate milk looking

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...95160055_n.jpg

This pic doesn't do it justice but from left to right is the order we filled them, the first 3 start green and end up more oil colored as we go.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 08:32 PM
  #104  
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wooow keep us posted man....
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 03:36 AM
  #105  
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Hi Guys, just joined this forum after reading this thread, I'm currently importing a '79 model to Australia. Through the entire read I was thinking this was a hydraulic lock as were others. At least that is far less severe than a siezed engine.
Zapawaf, leave your paint alone man, you should see mine

sat in this garage for 20 years I'm told



at the shipping facility





good luck with your car, I have a lot of work ahead of me, keep safe when you re-deploy

Last edited by billet351; Sep 9, 2011 at 03:40 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:15 AM
  #106  
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Junk the motor, and either look for a new block, if you want to build your own, or look into a crate. If you go block and build, make sure it's machined to the way you want it, machine work costs a fortune, and a good machine shop is hard hard HARD to find. If you go crate, check year one. They have, in my opinion, the best deals. Don't do an ebay special, and if you DO, make SURE you run it by these guys here FIRST. Also, if you go to build your own, again, run all of your purchase ideas by these guys first. It'll safe you potential heartache and cash in the long run, trust me. Good luck, and try not to let this get you down.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #107  
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This thread made me more sad as I read on....Chocolate milk in the oil is never good. From my boating experience, usually means a cracked block as a result of sitting over the winter with water in the block and no anti freeze. And driving it around with water in the oil will eventually freeze up the motor, probably sooner rather than later. Good luck man, and look on the bright side, now you can build a motor, and it will be right. You know exactly what is in it. It's a great experience overall, just not a cheap one.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #108  
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HEEEEEELP hahaha
Ok so don't make fun of me I've said time and time again I'm learning as I go.

Well I just learned where the fuel line is, and that it comes out FAST. Right now I've got a kink in the hose so it's not spilling over everything, is there a cut off valve or something on this beast to stop the fuel from wanting to pour out of this hose.

My instructions from my Father while he's working was to dissconnect anything connected to the engine that would stop the engine from being pulled out, and document everything.. Well this was one of those things I happened to find...

If there's no valves anyone got ideas to cap this hose or something???
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #109  
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Undo the gas cap to release the pressure. Plug the line.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #110  
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I plugged it and tightened the clamps back on it, the gas cap was something i did not think of tho thanks
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #111  
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Hey guys, pulled the radiator+ac condensor?+radiator mount.. it's got so much rust in the mount that it has a few good sized holes, mamotorworks has a replacement for 300 bucks ranging from 18.5-27.5'' core support, how do I know which I need, and is there a place I can get cheaper? I can find more espenxice no problem, and autozone wasn't any help.

What type of metal is used on this car because maybe we can weld something together/patch it up. There are other rust spots throughout the car that I'd like to patch up, what type of metal can we use or what would you reccomend? I don't have time or a garage I can do a full body restore. When I move down here and get my own garage I'll seriously consider it but for now I'd like to take care of what I can reach.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #112  
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Some of it is deep some of it is minor, how do you guys feel about rust convertors? What would you reccomened?
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #113  
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Sounds like your car is becoming a project car. Good luck. How much fluid was left in the radiator? What made decide to pull that out?
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:54 PM
  #114  
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Have someone turn the key, and jiggle the red wire that leads to your HEI in the distributor....It could be as simple as a bad connection, or broken wire there....
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #115  
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@ Binster, there was hardly any left in there, and we decided to pull it just to make it easier on the engine removal. I personally was a little curious to take a look at everything anyways, I've been finding lots of rust and things I don't like so I wanted to visually inspect it.

@ Jeff, if you go a page or 2 back you can see a video of us draining the oil pan and radiator fluid comes pouring out.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by jeff79'
Have someone turn the key, and jiggle the red wire that leads to your HEI in the distributor....It could be as simple as a bad connection, or broken wire there....
huh?
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by jeff79'
Have someone turn the key, and jiggle the red wire that leads to your HEI in the distributor....It could be as simple as a bad connection, or broken wire there....
Originally Posted by '75
huh?
Why he dismantled the radiator is beyond me. The red "power" wire that leads to the HEI in a '79, is made of really crappy wire, and is also coated with plastic that gets soft when the engine heats up.I had the same issue that the OP had on a 41k mile '79, and I tracked it down to the red wire....The car was ok cold, but when it heated up, it would sputter, and then quit....I changed out the connection and the length of wire, and have not had the problem since.....Diagnosing it is simple, if that is his problem.....Jiggle the wire, and have someone start the car at the same time....If it sputters, then there's your issue. Try it when the car dies, and see if it then starts...Start with the easy stuff first, and work down to the hard stuff last.

Look at it in the dark and see if it's arcing.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #118  
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The OP found 5 gallons of coolant in his crankcase along with the oil and his engine was locked up, I don't think the HEI wiring is at fault.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
@ Binster, there was hardly any left in there, and we decided to pull it just to make it easier on the engine removal. I personally was a little curious to take a look at everything anyways, I've been finding lots of rust and things I don't like so I wanted to visually inspect it.

@ Jeff, if you go a page or 2 back you can see a video of us draining the oil pan and radiator fluid comes pouring out.
Haha, my problem was a little more severe then a lose wire. Radiator fluid in the oil pan.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
The OP found 5 gallons of coolant in his crankcase along with the oil and his engine was locked up, I don't think the HEI wiring is at fault.
You just may be right then....

Head gasket time.
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