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Yea that's what we're thinking.
Like I said, radiator removal I understand isn't needed for removing the engine, however, I want to familiarize myself with this vehicle as it is new to me and clearly the previous owner didn't take much care of it like he claimed. I found things like missing bolts, bolts that don't belong, wire ties used to hold the radiator against the mount, the mount is rusted through and will need to be replaced or fixed ect. So I'm just playing it safe and removing what I can, it wasn't a hard thing to do... tho a few bolts broke off removing the mount, but the thing is so corroded I'm surprised they actually held it on in the first place.
The radiator support should probably be replaced. That is a common area for rot on these cars. You will have to replace it at some time so while you have access to that area you might as well fix it right and then it will be one less thing you will have to address later.
You are going to realize that as you take these cars apart you are going to find areas that need attention. That is why these older cars can be costly to work on. It's the nature of the "Beast"
Good Luck. There are many here that will be willing to help.
Sorry for not reading the entire thread, before offering my diagnosis. Good luck with your project....If it's any consolation, you've got a really handsome car there.
I have bought parts from most of the Corvette suppliers with varying prices depending on the part. The internet is your friend...Utilize it to its potential. Check the vendors that advertise here. Dr. Rebuild may be worth a look also.
Also take into consideration sales tax, where applicable and also shipping charges...They can kill ya' You may want to wait to order anything. You may need more parts and consolidating parts on a single order may save you on shipping charges. Thats assuming that the same supplier will have the best price on all the parts you need. It doesn't happen often.
Also if the parts are not Corvette specific you can save some money by getting those parts from your local auto parts store.
Good Luck!
You got a buddy who is good at fabricating? If so, yes, you can "make" a new rad support...but it's not something I would try if you don't have much exp. You need to make it quite similar to the old one, as it does more than just hold in the rad.
Instead of hitting up those stores, hit up the for sale section in this forum, and be patient. A person on a budget HAS to be patient. Don't order ANYTHING, until you are done pulling stuff apart. The larger your order, the less you end up paying for shipping, in the long run. And shipping can give even Donald Trump a nose bleed. Check that rad, as well. Look inside. It should be clean copper. If there is green corosion, I would replace it. I would not trust a NEW engine to an OLD rad.
Since you are removing all of this stuff, this would be a GREAT time to sand done the front frame, and hit it with some POR15. THAT stuff is great, and I would even say you can buy some right away. Hit every piece of frame you can, once the motor is out, with that stuff.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. At this point you may want to take a good look at the frame, birdcage and top of the windshield and check for excessive rot. With this car's history, and the rusted rad support, there may be other serious issues. Sometimes these cars are too far gone to save, and I would do a thorough evaluation before pouring alot of money into a new motor, interior and paint.
I hate to sound negative, and I hope everything works out for you. I have almost 15k invested in my '76 so far, way more than its worth. Considering the satisfaction I got from doing it myself and the time I spent with my dad, I consider it a great investment
@Kevin, Yea I was looking up rust converters and POR15 came up, tho I'm not really sure why people consider that the top dog.
If you put rust converter on something and it covers it with that polymer, is it now rust proof? The thing I don't like is that if there was rust underneath it in years to come I'd never know because it's covered.
@Psycho, I honestly don't know what a bird cage is, is this refering to any area around the inside (can't think of a better way to say it, but pretty much cockpit)? And yea I'm definitly not doing the interior or anything until it runs and is safe. I wish I lived here with my own garage because I'd work on getting the body off the frame and see if I could restore the chassis, I'd hate to put a new engine on something covered in rust
On that last note, does anyone have any good guides to getting to the chassis? What needs to be taken apart? Would I litterally have to remove everything? I don't nearly have enough time for this project now, just inquiring.
A quick check for a rusty frame is to remove the kick panels, those pieces just forward of the doors by your feet. Some rust in there is normal with a car that age, but make sure it is not rusted through.
Good luck!
My own engine died last night, I'm about to start my own thread asking for help!
A quick check for a rusty frame is to remove the kick panels, those pieces just forward of the doors by your feet. Some rust in there is normal with a car that age, but make sure it is not rusted through.
Good luck!
My own engine died last night, I'm about to start my own thread asking for help!
Ah good luck, these guys have been very helpful so you'll have no problem getting info.
That dropped valve could be why your engine is seized. It's probably wedged up against the piston, and if it punched a hole in the cylinder wall, it could explain why there is all that coolant in the oil pan. Good luck with your project.
That dropped valve could be why your engine is seized. It's probably wedged up against the piston, and if it punched a hole in the cylinder wall, it could explain why there is all that coolant in the oil pan. Good luck with your project.
This may be the missing link on this tale. Explains everything.
Does this include any warrentee? Also, it says long block, what I currently have in there is a short block, does this matter?
Comes with a 36 month warantee (I can't spell it right either!) The difference between a long block and short block is just that a short block is the expression used for a block with crank, rods, and pistons. Long block is the same thing, plus cam, valve train, heads, timing chain and cover, oil pan, oil pump, etc. You basically remove your engine, remove the intake, carb, distributor, exhaust, harmonic dampener, and the accessories like alternator, power steering pump, airconditioning, and install them on this new engine in the car. BAM!!!! You're driving again.
Comes with a 36 month warantee (I can't spell it right either!) The difference between a long block and short block is just that a short block is the expression used for a block with crank, rods, and pistons. Long block is the same thing, plus cam, valve train, heads, timing chain and cover, oil pan, oil pump, etc. You basically remove your engine, remove the intake, carb, distributor, exhaust, harmonic dampener, and the accessories like alternator, power steering pump, airconditioning, and install them on this new engine in the car. BAM!!!! You're driving again.
Scott
Thanks I was expecting it to be a bit more then that haha, do you know if you can customize it any more? I was thinking since I had to get something new I might as well treat it to some extra umph if it's within budget :P