Ahhh ...poodle skirts

 

I don't understand if this is a joke or you being serious lol, How would you know if I had headers based on looking at my starter? If you're refering to the red tubing those are not headers haha, I believe they connected to my radiator... I don't remember exactly, good thing we're documenting everything we touch haha.

And to Will, thank you I wasn't sure what the system was for POR15, I just see all these different kits and wasn't sure how it worked, it looks all overwhelming when there's 100 different options for things.




Ok on a replacing my engine note, I have been checking out Summit Racing.
I notice some say they have Harmonic Balancers, Some say Engine Balance Internal with no Harmonic Balancer, is it safe to say that if it has an internal balance it doesn't need a harmonic? I don't really know what they do so I want to make sure.

Also, Comparing these 3

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12568758/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499529/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19210007/

What of these would be the better bang for the buck?
Is there really that much of a difference to justify going from $2k to the $3k? Is a grand more really worth it for the 40 more HP? I mean I really like the looks of the Edelbrock Carb/Air Cleaner and that will be something I may splurge on as well, which I'm not so sure I can afford with the $3k, and I'm not really sure I care if it's 330hp over 290. Tho My buddy has a brand new 2011 Ford Mustang I'd love to blow off the road. But if I bought the engine with 290HP and invested in new Headers and new Carbs, how much would that add?
Lastly, what other improvements could/should I do while the engine is out?

I was told I should replace the fuel pump, my drier will need to be replaced eventually because it's not converted to whatever todays AC takes, RJ-something, would Oil Pump be a safe bet with my previous issues haha.

 

If it works that way,I'll take one!!!!


To the OP....I agree with the earlier post stating that you should give your car a good evaluation to determine if it is worth investing a large amount of money. If the frame has rust damage the best engine and gallons of POR-15 will will be wasted.
And prior to that an Assembly Manual would be a wise investment. That way when someone suggests looking at a particular part you'll know what your looking for.
The greatest labor and money saver at your disposal at this time is KNOWLEDGE!!!
So start with some learning and investigating before you spend too much money and time... JMO.

 

I've heard a few people mention the manuals so it seems like I'll be investing in one :P

But on the rust side of things, I had a guy who was working on his own restoration project look over the car, and then a family friend who was telling me how every little thing worked, which I forgotten half of it already, they both checked it out and said it was in good shape for it's year. When I see rust I don't think good shape, so I assumed the worst, but they seem to think its ok.

 

I just looked up floor pans for corvettes, what is underneath them? Are they used as the support? Because when I lifted the carpet, I could knock underneath and see where I was knocking on the inside. Is this the way it should be? It really felt like plastic but I wouldn't think plastic would hold up to much weight at all.

 

GM Performance 12499529 (the 290 hp engine) is a rip-off. It is the EXACT same engine as the 10067353 (260 hp engine) with a different camshaft. So, they are charging you an extra 500 bucks because they put a different camshaft in it. I am sure you can find a camshaft for less than 500 bucks. And it only comes with a 12 month warranty.

As for the 330 hp engine, you can build almost exactly the same engine with the 10067353, just by installing vortec heads and a Summit Racing SUM-1103 camshaft.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1103/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12558060/

$726.00

The first link is intrigueing: one piece rear main seal, and a roller cam, for pretty short money. The only drawback is that I don't think this engine has a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. If you don't mind taking it apart and having it machined for a fuel pump pushrod, it would be a pretty sweet deal.


Scott

 

What year car is it again? '76? Yup, that's fiberglass. It's a Corvette, remember? LOL!!! Chevy went to the sheetmetal floor sometime between your car and my car (1980). Don't worry about it, at least it won't rust.


Scott

 

How do you know about the fuel pump? I don't know anything about fuel pumps. How would I know what type of pump I have

 

Lol very true. It's a 79, but yea... How safe is that lol, I can't imagine it being the best to have a Seat + the weight of a person on fiberglass, is it really that durable lol

 

If your floor is really a 76 it is metal. Metal started during the 75 year.

 

Well, up until around 1982 or so, chevy engines had a fuel pump on the front passenger side of the engine, which is driven by a lobe on the camshaft. With the advent of fuel injection, which requires high fuel pressure, electric fuel pumps in the fuel tank are used.

Yeah, just when you think you are getting a grasp on this whole engine thing........BAM!!!!! Hahah!!!!! Ya didn't know about the fuel pump, didya?!?!?!?!

Don't worry, you have done well with the major part of it, you have a good grasp of the basics, it's just a few details from here on in. Wait till you take a crack at re-building a carburetor!!!!! Muahahahahaha!!!!!


Scott

 

Noonie is pretty on the ball, I'd take his word over mine, plus, it's a '79, you say? Should be a sheetmetal floor, maybe you have some sort of repair going on there? How about a few pics of the floor, from inside and outside (underneath)?


Scott

 

Yea I managed to find that info, which worries me a little, haha. Then again only reason I say it's a 79 is the previous owner told me haha, maybe I should double check that too :P

I'll get at it tomorrow and post some pics

 

ok sorry bout that, I thought they were rusty metal tubing ie. headers.

As far as por15 goes I used it on my Falcon GT, there are two different paints, one is UV stable (will with stand sunlight) while the other does not. Take your time and do the car properly, if you're like me you will be intending on keeping it for a very long time. If your noy going to get it finished before you redeploy, you will have more money to finish when you get back.


Since I too have just bought that '79 black one I posted earlier, I am following this link and taking note of the problems you find and cringe everytime, hoping mine is not the same. I have not seen it in real life, just pics and not detailed ones either. Those engines are so cheap over there, it cost 4k just to do a standard reco on the cleveland in my GT, standard carb, ignition and exhaust manifolds

 

Heater hoses

 

When you order the AIM, get yourself a 3 ring binder for it, or buy it along with the AIM from mid america. It's, like, 5 bucks, or something.

I didn't figure your car would be bad off with the rust. Even so, getting what isn't currently rusted covered and protected from future rust is NEVER a bad investment. Plus, it looks nice. You have a neighbor working on an old camaro, you say? Time to add beer into your build budget...having a friendly helper is worth it's weight in gold. Head over when you see him working, offer to lend a hand, then invite him over to your car with an enticingly ice cold beer.

As for motor, Scotty is right, the short block really is only 100 bucks less....WOW. Buy that long block, replace the heads and intake, and have a 300hp motor for about 2,500 bucks. Sell the heads, and make about 150 bucks back. Sell the intake, and make another 150 bucks back. Maybe.

As for the UV thing, I wouldn't worry too much about that...the stuff you put POR15 on doesn't see the light of day very much. All it means is that under direct sunlight, it will bake, then crack. Your radiator is good, that's one BIG expense down.

As for headers and true duals...worry about that later, after you have the motor. If it were me, I'd take that first longblock Scotty suggested, ditch the heads and intake for the vortecs, try to sell the heads and intake it came with, to cover the shipping, and that'll be a good, reliable, strong motor.

As for me asking if you want a racer or not, I don't mean on the street. These cars are all kinds of fun on race tracks, and even pretty fun on autoX. Places where you can go fast legally.

 

I might have missed it in reading this thread but, you really should go with the long block version. With that snapped valve, chances are at least one head has alot of damage. Because of that, you'll need to buy heads or get yours re-done anyway. Go with the long block and transfer your distributor, starter, intake, carb and balancer over after giving them a good going over to make sure they're in good shape. I'd replace the water pump and fuel pump if they look like they've been there since 79. This would also be good time for new motor mounts and a set of headers if you can.

Clean everything you can get to. In the engine bay and under it. I'd also clean all the brackets, accessories (power steering pump, a/c comp, brake booster and master cyclinder, etc) pulleys and brackets as much as you can. Do this before you start swapping parts over to the new engine. You don't have to use POR15, but it's a great product and works. Another product that comes in a spray can that's out there is the VHT Suspension epoxy paint. It's not as good as the POR, but it's not as expensive either, and for what you seem to want, may be a good choice.

 

I have an 82 originally from California. I have the same floor as you. Its like a fibreglass or plastic. Its not metal. I know its original.

Jim

 

Yea, I just took a look this morning in the light and it looked like there was rust sooo... I guess whatever metal is there is cheap and thin. I have a bunch of pictures of the project I will post in a few when they load.

Seems like the underside is the fiberglass, and the inside must just have some type of floor pan, not a fan. When I get the insulation later on in life I'll replace that.

 

Here are some pictures from close to the begining to it being ready to be pulled.





No this isn't a picture of the car but I found this huge turtle while working on it, so enjoy the turtle picture :P



I don't know what this peice is called, I cannot remember what my Father said, but this is the top of the engine



Here is where you can see the Valve Stem and the rod up from it is a little bent

Underside of passanger floor

Under carpet

How do I remove that? Looks like it was glued or something down, what would you use?