C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Dec 31, 2018 | 01:55 PM
  #401  
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Here is the front of the console gauges lit up. You can see the check engine light(from an 82) and all the gauge lights work. They are all pegged due to no sender being hooked up yet. The bright light will be for the high beam indicator. Might have to tone that one down a bit as it is very bright.


Here you can see the two main gauges and the wiring. New head light switch and oh yea I put in electric headlights also to ditch all the vacuum operated things.


Here is the new console. With the T56 sitting a little further back I elected to not put in a goofy shift arm and just move things back. Also it has the electronic controls for the VA system.


Here is the console gauge back all cleaned up wire wise and ready to install. I'm no electrical engineer but it all works and is an easy plug and play.

Last edited by Gordonm; Dec 31, 2018 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2018 | 09:05 PM
  #402  
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Nice work- good to see you back at it!!!

I did the same thing with my gauges- much better idea than disconnecting 17 wires!!!

Richard
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 05:20 PM
  #403  
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Looking forward to seeing your progress. Enjoy it! I’m really curious about your dislike of the hydroboost. I have manual brakes and don’t have any complaints about them but was thinking maybe hydoboost in the future.
Eddy
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 06:02 PM
  #404  
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Originally Posted by Techoca
Looking forward to seeing your progress. Enjoy it! I’m really curious about your dislike of the hydroboost. I have manual brakes and don’t have any complaints about them but was thinking maybe hydoboost in the future.
Eddy
I’ll send you a PM when I get a chance to sit down and write about it.
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 06:09 PM
  #405  
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This is one of those non glamorous parts that needs to be installed. The LS3 motors and a lot of the LS motors when run hard suck the oil mist out of the motor and into the PCV system. So the cure is a catch can that removes most of the oil. I bought this a few years ago and never got around to installing it. This was for a C6 Corvette and had a bracket to mount it. Well mine not being a C6 was not going to fit at all. The VA compressor is also in the way. So I had to find a spot that was not looking like it was just tossed in the engine and ran the hoses where they are barely visible. Takes time to plan and execute this stuff. I spent probably 4 hours doing this. Nobody will ever notice and it is not a pretty thing but the car will run better without the oil mist blowing around in it. So its the little things like this that take your hours up but it is done right. One more project done and out of the way. It is mounted down low on the passenger side inner fender skirt. Just below the ECM

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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 06:15 PM
  #406  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm

This is one of those non glamorous parts that needs to be installed. The LS3 motors and a lot of the LS motors when run hard suck the oil mist out of the motor and into the PCV system. So the cure is a catch can that removes most of the oil. I bought this a few years ago and never got around to installing it. This was for a C6 Corvette and had a bracket to mount it. Well mine not being a C6 was not going to fit at all. The VA compressor is also in the way. So I had to find a spot that was not looking like it was just tossed in the engine and ran the hoses where they are barely visible. Takes time to plan and execute this stuff. I spent probably 4 hours doing this. Nobody will ever notice and it is not a pretty thing but the car will run better without the oil mist blowing around in it. So its the little things like this that take your hours up but it is done right. One more project done and out of the way. It is mounted down low on the passenger side inner fender skirt. Just below the ECM
I find that those time consuming projects when planned and done right, like you have done here, to be personally satisfying. Looks great.
Eddy
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 08:44 PM
  #407  
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I got mine from a place called Elite Engineering (or something like that). Have it up where I can easily unscrew it. It is beautifully machined and definitely works well, a lot of oil passing through the crankcase ventilation system. Took me a bit to figure out how to plumb it correctly. And I don't know how this got rotated, not worth messing around with it I think.


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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 08:58 PM
  #408  
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Originally Posted by ignatz
I got mine from a place called Elite Engineering (or something like that). Have it up where I can easily unscrew it. It is beautifully machined and definitely works well, a lot of oil passing through the crankcase ventilation system. Took me a bit to figure out how to plumb it correctly. And I don't know how this got rotated, not worth messing around with it I think.


Same unit I have except mine is in black. Yes that is where they want it mounted but I have an AC compressor right there so it was a no go. Had to relocate. I can get to mine pretty easily now that it is installed to drain it. I don’t drive a lot of miles so probably once a year will be enough.

Last edited by Gordonm; Jan 7, 2019 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 06:44 PM
  #409  
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As you can see I got my new Tanks inc tank in. I used the different sending unit for fuel tank level. It uses a ball instead of a float. Supposed to be less fuel needle movement when fuel is sloshing around. Also this is the 4th fuel tank I have gotten from Tanks. Each time I notice the fuel baffling in the tank is better than the previous. This should stop fuel starvation in a long corner.


Last edited by Gordonm; Jan 7, 2019 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 08:20 PM
  #410  
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Fuel pump in. Sender in. Wired up with weatherpack connectors ready to plug and go. Waiting for 3 fuel line fittings then back in it goes.

Last edited by Gordonm; Jan 7, 2019 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2019 | 10:31 PM
  #411  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm

This is one of those non glamorous parts that needs to be installed. The LS3 motors and a lot of the LS motors when run hard suck the oil mist out of the motor and into the PCV system. So the cure is a catch can that removes most of the oil. I bought this a few years ago and never got around to installing it. This was for a C6 Corvette and had a bracket to mount it. Well mine not being a C6 was not going to fit at all. The VA compressor is also in the way. So I had to find a spot that was not looking like it was just tossed in the engine and ran the hoses where they are barely visible. Takes time to plan and execute this stuff. I spent probably 4 hours doing this. Nobody will ever notice and it is not a pretty thing but the car will run better without the oil mist blowing around in it. So its the little things like this that take your hours up but it is done right. One more project done and out of the way. It is mounted down low on the passenger side inner fender skirt. Just below the ECM
Lookin good. Yes time consuming, but rewarding too. Same goes with the ls3 swap!

i bought a catch can recently. How did you plumb yours? I've seen/read so many opinions and options. Some run 2 cans,1 for the clean and 1 for the dirty side. Any thoughts?

Ryan
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Old Jan 9, 2019 | 02:05 AM
  #412  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm


I’ll send you a PM when I get a chance to sit down and write about it.
I was thinking about replacing my vacuum pb’s and going with hydro boost.
Can you include me with a pm or maybe post your concerns on the thread?
Thanks!
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Old Jan 9, 2019 | 07:07 AM
  #413  
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Originally Posted by bluegtp
Lookin good. Yes time consuming, but rewarding too. Same goes with the ls3 swap!

i bought a catch can recently. How did you plumb yours? I've seen/read so many opinions and options. Some run 2 cans,1 for the clean and 1 for the dirty side. Any thoughts?

Ryan
I have seen a few but followed some of the LS builds on C5 and C6 forums. The clean side I draw air in from after the air cleaner and right behind the throttle plate. This is where the nipple for the stock system is. It’s on the drivers side of the throttle body. From there I run a vacuum hose to the right hand valve cover and T it there around the back side of the engine to the driver side valve cover. This is it for the fresh air.

On the dirty side I pull the dirty air from the factory nipple on the plate below the intake on the flat plate that covers the lifter valley. Again the factory draws it from here. From there a vacuum line to the intake side of the oil separator then back to the factory nipple on the passenger side of the throttle body.

Most of the oil I have seen has been on the dirty side of the system in the floor of the intake manifold so this way should separate it before if goes back into the intake. If you want some pictures I can take it.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 11:32 AM
  #414  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm



Here you can see the two main gauges and the wiring. New head light switch and oh yea I put in electric headlights also to ditch all the vacuum operated things.




Here is the console gauge back all cleaned up wire wise and ready to install. I'm no electrical engineer but it all works and is an easy plug and play.
Hi Gordon, I'm new to this thread, but have followed many of your threads with great interest! You do such excellent work!
I'm curious as to where you got the connectors? I've found only a couple of different types, either weatherpack, or Molex style. These look great and seem easy to work with.

TIA!
Paul
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 73sbvert
Hi Gordon, I'm new to this thread, but have followed many of your threads with great interest! You do such excellent work!
I'm curious as to where you got the connectors? I've found only a couple of different types, either weatherpack, or Molex style. These look great and seem easy to work with.

TIA!
Paul
I got these on Amazon. I think these are actually trailer type connectors. I’ll look for the link. Curt 58035. Put that into amazon and you will get the female side. The male side is 58037. I just did this again for David Howards 74 and did a better job on his than mine. I think I still have some pictures on my phone of the harnesses
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Old May 5, 2020 | 11:00 AM
  #416  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I got these on Amazon. I think these are actually trailer type connectors. I’ll look for the link. Curt 58035. Put that into amazon and you will get the female side. The male side is 58037. I just did this again for David Howards 74 and did a better job on his than mine. I think I still have some pictures on my phone of the harnesses
I find that hard to believe! You do great work though, to you!

Those would be nice to see!

Happy Cinco de Mayo all!
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Old May 11, 2020 | 06:35 AM
  #417  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I got these on Amazon. I think these are actually trailer type connectors. I’ll look for the link. Curt 58035. Put that into amazon and you will get the female side. The male side is 58037. I just did this again for David Howards 74 and did a better job on his than mine. I think I still have some pictures on my phone of the harnesses
Great work, as always. With the virus situation I was able to get the LS2 running in my car. Now I have to figure out how to get the info from the ECU into the gauges. I need to make a decision on gauges. I have the cluster from the GTO donor car but can't find a wiring harness so I'm not sure I'll be able to use it.
Can you walk me through where you tied into the harness? I finally got the OBDLinx to work (ground problem) so I can get info from the ECU but it doesn't have oil pressure or temp and those are the things I am most worried about. When my header wraps started smoking/curing I was sure that I was over heated and about to ruin the whole thing!

Thanks,
Mike
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Old May 11, 2020 | 05:20 PM
  #418  
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Depending on your gauge selection the ecm does not need a signal for oil pressure, water temp, gas tank level or volt meter. They can be wired directly from the sender to the gauge. Speedo signal can come from the ecm which is best. If you are running a manual trans you can run the VSS signal from the trans directly to speedo but most tuners would say running the VSS signal thru the ecm will help make the engine tune easier. Auto trans VSS signal have to go thru the ecm controlling shift point and such. Tach signal needs to come from the ecm to the gauge.
Careful on the over heat you may have an air block in the cylinder head.
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Old May 11, 2020 | 09:13 PM
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Here is Davids main harness. You can see the 4 plugs I added. I left more wiring than I did on mine as the main gauges were a little tough to instal so on his I left more wiring. The red green and blue wires that are coiled up will go out into the engine compartment. Red is the main feed for the HEI. Green is the tach lead and blue is the oil temp line. I actually do enjoy the wiring of these. Take your time and it all comes together.
I used the wiring harness from PSI. It is pretty much a stand alone harness. As said above the gauges are run separately from my PSI harness. I did buy the expensive tach harness from summit and run the electronic speedo off a GPS signal. Works well. I got the idea when I did this on my Cobra also. The console gauges use some of the original wiring but things like oil temp have separate wiring. I was fortunate to have the harness out of the car on mine and Davids and was able to lay it out in the basement.. I unwound a lot of the tape and used some of the original and added where needed. Once it was al set I rewrapped the harness so it is neat and looks correct. If you need any more info let me know.

Last edited by Gordonm; May 11, 2020 at 09:21 PM.
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