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The two issues I would see are getting the hole square...and filings
Not sure what I can offer on getting the hole square...it's going to be tough. I wonder if someone makes a jig that would go across all the intake bolts...?
Filings, I guess just be careful. Rags everywhere and a shop vac running.
Honestly...I think you'll have a hard time It's not that big of a deal to remove the head...
To help you drill the hole straight, take a LONG bolt of the same thread pitch and screw it into an adjacent hole. You can use this as a visual alignment guide while drilling. Also, spray some WD40 at the hole while drilling, using slow speed and no more pressure on the drill than absolutely necessary (to prevent the bit from 'grabbing'), and make absolutely sure that ALL the oil drainback holes in the head and valley are covered until the hole has been tapped and the insert installed. Enjoy!
If I was going to try this, I would bolt the intake back on, use it as a guide,(when drilling) depending on the size of the drill) Or try to use a 1-2-3 block as a guide, or even make a guide that can be bolted to the head.
Tap the hole as square as possible, clean the new threads with something like Acetone.
When you insert the heli coil use a hi-temp thread locker. Make sure that a vacuum is used when drilling. Good luck
If I was going to try this, I would bolt the intake back on, use it as a guide,(when drilling) depending on the size of the drill) Or try to use a 1-2-3 block as a guide, or even make a guide that can be bolted to the head.
Tap the hole as square as possible, clean the new threads with something like Acetone.
When you insert the heli coil use a hi-temp thread locker. Make sure that a vacuum is used when drilling. Good luck
M2C Steve
That's a proper way and a lot easier than removing the head.
Best if the little plate was 1" thick or so.
Drill a hole through a piece of wood that it true on both sides Lay it on the intake suface and use it as a guide. You could make it from a 1 inch piece of steel if you wanted to do more work. Drill the hole in the wood/steel on a drill press if you feel you can't drill it at a right angle. Plug all the oil return holes with something, and place several magnets around the area you are working on. Rare earth magnets work well. I use them on the bottom of my oil filters also.
try coating the drill and tap with heavy grease when you do the new hole that heavy grease will hold on to the chips and bits of metal coming out. you still need to cover holes but the grease trick will cut loose metal by a good bit.
I'm gonna try tomorrow. I'm more worried about the tap process than drilling out. The threads are gone now any way....I need a hand tool for holding the tap.
I'm gonna try tomorrow. I'm more worried about the tap process than drilling out. The threads are gone now any way....I need a hand tool for holding the tap.
you need to buy a t-handle made for holding a tap sears has them for less than 20 dollars. you're pretty much guaranteed that you'll send the tap in crooked without using a handle made to be used with a tap.