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This question may seem silly. You can reuse the bolts on the intake manifold? They are ARP bolts (new when I installed the intake several years ago) and I perfer not to throw them out. Second since the threads have sealant on them what can be used to remove the sealant from them? The reason for the first question is that will the clapming force of the bolts be reduced if reused.
Clean em off and use em. A lot of guys will re use the OE bolts....nothing better than good GM stuff. Just be careful with rod bolts and cap bolts...JMO
You can absolutely reuse them regardless, and ARP specifically you can virtually always reuse. I tend to toss torqued fastners at overhaul - but not for an intake swap.
I use a cleaning die for cleaning threads - it doesn't cut them, it just cleans them out. If you do any work on cars, you'll want a set. This is the set I have, and it's been a great investment!
I'm not suggesting a "die" - but a thread restore/clean set. Anyone that does a fair bit of mechanic work will want them, as there's also typically sealant in the threaded holes you'll want to clean out as well...and you'll find them very useful for a bunch of other jobs
Taking a wire wheel - even a brass one - to an ARP bolt will destroy the anodized finish. Not a problem on a stock or Grade 5-type bolt, but not something you want to do to an ARP bolt IMHO.
I throw all my bolts into the parts washer and let them soak for a day or so, then brush them and blow dry them. Stick them in carburetor cleaner overnight and wash them off with water. Most of them are nice and clean. I run a thread chaser over the bolts before reuse.
I'm not suggesting a "die" - but a thread restore/clean set. Anyone that does a fair bit of mechanic work will want them, as there's also typically sealant in the threaded holes you'll want to clean out as well...and you'll find them very useful for a bunch of other jobs
Taking a wire wheel - even a brass one - to an ARP bolt will destroy the anodized finish. Not a problem on a stock or Grade 5-type bolt, but not something you want to do to an ARP bolt IMHO.
It's black oxide, not anodize. Anodize is used on aluminum and other non-ferrous metals. Black oxide is the corroded surface of the parent metal. Just installing a fastener with black oxide will scrape some of the coating off the threads, though I agree a wire wheel will remove some. Use some common sense with a wire wheel like slow speed, and stop when the RTV or whatever sealer you used is gone.
I'd like to get a thread chaser set though, it's got to be alot cleaner than a wire wheel, without all that crud flying all over your work space from a wire wheel.
Black oxide is a steel conversion coating and so agreed that it's not anodizing - however regular black oxide coating is not hard and leaves a "smutty" finish - take a look at an ARP bolt and you'll find a hard, shiny coating that quite unlike typical black oxide - even though that's what they call it.
FWIW, I do some black oxide at home for restoration parts - here's a great source for this stuff: www.caswellplating.com.
The cleaning taps are nice if for no other reason that there's not just sealant gummed up on the bolts - there's the bolt, and the hole - the wire wheel just cleans one.
I use a wire wheel brush on my drill. I screw the bolts into a piece of wood, clean them up, then spray a good clear coat on top of them. Look great to me.
Black oxide is a steel conversion coating and so agreed that it's not anodizing - however regular black oxide coating is not hard and leaves a "smutty" finish - take a look at an ARP bolt and you'll find a hard, shiny coating that quite unlike typical black oxide - even though that's what they call it.
FWIW, I do some black oxide at home for restoration parts - here's a great source for this stuff: www.caswellplating.com.
The cleaning taps are nice if for no other reason that there's not just sealant gummed up on the bolts - there's the bolt, and the hole - the wire wheel just cleans one.
Look for yourself: http://arp-bolts.com/pages/mfg_process.shtml
ARP uses black oxide, which is significantly harder than the base metal. Normal black oxide application invovles a heated solution. I too use black oxide on steel at work as well as anodizing on aluminum. IDK of any anodizing process for steel.
Look for yourself: http://arp-bolts.com/pages/mfg_process.shtml
ARP uses black oxide, which is significantly harder than the base metal. Normal black oxide application invovles a heated solution. I too use black oxide on steel at work as well as anodizing on aluminum. IDK of any anodizing process for steel.
I use the cold process, since it's at home.
Regardless of the terminology or process, I don't use a wire wheel on ARP bolts
Cleaning RTV or Permatex #2 from bolt threads is almost impossible by soaking is solvent. A mechanical means is required, like wire brushing. A tap will clean the gunk out of the bolt holes.
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