Need help with vacuum accessories
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 23
From: Prescott AZ
Need help with vacuum accessories
I am building a small block 427 with a T56 magnum for my 1970 vette. I'm sure when it is done that I will have very little vacuum. I figure I will have to go to a hydo boost for the brakes but what have others done about the head lights and wiper door. I know I can go to a long hood to eliminate the wiper door. Just curious what others have done to over come this.
Thanks for any input.
Rob
Thanks for any input.
Rob
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Rob
I realize people have many different ideas about dealing with the situation you're facing.
I'll offer just one piece of information.... I believe the contour on the rear of the long hood (73+) doesn't match the contour of the rear of the 68-72 fenders. So some body and paint work may be needed to obtain the appearance you're looking for.
Regards,
Alan
I realize people have many different ideas about dealing with the situation you're facing.
I'll offer just one piece of information.... I believe the contour on the rear of the long hood (73+) doesn't match the contour of the rear of the 68-72 fenders. So some body and paint work may be needed to obtain the appearance you're looking for.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 23
From: Prescott AZ
Thanks Alan,
I understand that the stock 73+ hood will not match but I believe that there are several aftermarket long style hoods designed for the early C3's. I will be running a L88 style for the extra clearance. I am not sure what I will have to do for the head lights. I do not want to go to fixed headlights. What other options do I have to operate my headlights?
Rob
I understand that the stock 73+ hood will not match but I believe that there are several aftermarket long style hoods designed for the early C3's. I will be running a L88 style for the extra clearance. I am not sure what I will have to do for the head lights. I do not want to go to fixed headlights. What other options do I have to operate my headlights?
Rob
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Rob,
I don't know anything about modified engines and the amount of vacuum they generate... doesn't it really have to do with the cam's specs?
Might you still have enough vacuum to operate the lights?
There are electric motor conversions for the head lights which seem pretty nice, but are also pretty $$.
Your post and this one will get you to the top again for some new looks and replies.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I don't know anything about modified engines and the amount of vacuum they generate... doesn't it really have to do with the cam's specs?
Might you still have enough vacuum to operate the lights?
There are electric motor conversions for the head lights which seem pretty nice, but are also pretty $$.
Your post and this one will get you to the top again for some new looks and replies.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 23
From: Prescott AZ
Thanks Alan,
You are correct. It is the cam specs. The cam I will be running will not give me much vacuum to get the 600hp from this motor that I am going for. I don't know exactly what I will have yet, but I'm sure it will be minimal.
Rob
You are correct. It is the cam specs. The cam I will be running will not give me much vacuum to get the 600hp from this motor that I am going for. I don't know exactly what I will have yet, but I'm sure it will be minimal.
Rob
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you have 10" Hg vacuum and no leaks, you may have enough stored energy to work the headlights. You will need a vacuum reservoir tank and a good check valve in the system. Why not check vacuum of the engine on the dyno (if that's what you're doing) or immediately after you start the motor in the car [disconnect all the vacuum 'stuff' to check max vacuum possible]. You may be able to get the job done with the engine.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 5
From: Livonia MI
A few more things to throw in the mix, since you didn't mention much about the build. You can order the cam ground with a bit wider LSA to reduce overlap. Torque peak will move up in the band a bit, but you've got some cubes. If using flat hydraulic tappets, Crane has a Hi-Intensity line that bleed down a bit at low rpms. While a vacuum canisters good idea, keep in mind, will only go deep as the engine build will do. Usually at light cruising with the carb plates mostly closed.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 23
From: Prescott AZ
Yes, I will be dynoing the motor after the build so I can check vacuum then. It would be great if the head lights worked ok. I am using a Dart sportsman block with 350 mains, 4.125 bore and 6" rods. The heads are Dart full CNC aluminum Pro1 w/227 cc intake runners, 2.08 / 1.60 valves. Dart single plane manifold and Quick Fuel 950 cfm carb set up for road race and a steel billet solid roller cam. I should be pushing close to 600 hp and 550 ft of torque. I guess I will have to see if and how much vacuum I get on the dyno. I am just trying to make a plan of attack.
Thanks for the input guys.
Rob
Thanks for the input guys.
Rob
