Converter selection help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 29
From: The Netherlands
Converter selection help
As some if you may know I'm building a 383 sbc. It has a XE274H cam so I know I'm looking at a new convertor.
Now, I have the option of buying a 2400 stall B&Mholeshot for a steal locally and that would save me well over $300 vs buying a new one in the US and having it shipped.
Would this be wise? Or would it be best to see how my current, rebuilt one does and go from there?
How bad is being 200 or 400 rpm off? Say I'd need 2000 stall ideally and have this 2400 one in?
I know numbers are not the whole story as stall is also
determined by the engine's output.
Thanks!
Now, I have the option of buying a 2400 stall B&Mholeshot for a steal locally and that would save me well over $300 vs buying a new one in the US and having it shipped.
Would this be wise? Or would it be best to see how my current, rebuilt one does and go from there?
How bad is being 200 or 400 rpm off? Say I'd need 2000 stall ideally and have this 2400 one in?
I know numbers are not the whole story as stall is also
determined by the engine's output.
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
What are you going to do with the car? Is it strictly a drag car? If not, what percentage of the time will you be using it on the street? And, if street use is expected, how much time on the highway? in the city?
The converter you choose should be based on how the car is used and matched to the level of torque produced by the engine and with stall in the area of the torque band where you plan to "launch" the car. If you have the engine performance specs and the other info listed above, you should call a good converter manufacturer, talk with a sales technical person, and let them help you decide what would work best for you.
Going to a local parts store to talk with "Bubba" on what converter you should buy is not a real option. Probably the next worst option is asking a bunch of folks you don't know what you should do. But, thanks for thinking of us.
Good luck with your choice and hope it works well for you.
The converter you choose should be based on how the car is used and matched to the level of torque produced by the engine and with stall in the area of the torque band where you plan to "launch" the car. If you have the engine performance specs and the other info listed above, you should call a good converter manufacturer, talk with a sales technical person, and let them help you decide what would work best for you.
Going to a local parts store to talk with "Bubba" on what converter you should buy is not a real option. Probably the next worst option is asking a bunch of folks you don't know what you should do. But, thanks for thinking of us.
Good luck with your choice and hope it works well for you.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
I always run a 10 inch converter and have it built loose or tight depending on engine torque and weight of car, usually turns into a 3500 tight.
I get all mine from www.ptcrace.com after I call them and talk about my setup at the time.
I have a 4 speed car right now so I really don't have a horse in this race.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 29
From: The Netherlands
What are you going to do with the car? Is it strictly a drag car? If not, what percentage of the time will you be using it on the street? And, if street use is expected, how much time on the highway? in the city?
The converter you choose should be based on how the car is used and matched to the level of torque produced by the engine and with stall in the area of the torque band where you plan to "launch" the car. If you have the engine performance specs and the other info listed above, you should call a good converter manufacturer, talk with a sales technical person, and let them help you decide what would work best for you.
Going to a local parts store to talk with "Bubba" on what converter you should buy is not a real option. Probably the next worst option is asking a bunch of folks you don't know what you should do. But, thanks for thinking of us.
Good luck with your choice and hope it works well for you.
The converter you choose should be based on how the car is used and matched to the level of torque produced by the engine and with stall in the area of the torque band where you plan to "launch" the car. If you have the engine performance specs and the other info listed above, you should call a good converter manufacturer, talk with a sales technical person, and let them help you decide what would work best for you.
Going to a local parts store to talk with "Bubba" on what converter you should buy is not a real option. Probably the next worst option is asking a bunch of folks you don't know what you should do. But, thanks for thinking of us.
Good luck with your choice and hope it works well for you.
The car is street use mainly, with about 50% highway time. Weight about 1500 lbs.
Engine power... Problem is there isn't really a place I can dyno just the engine, so I'm forced to either do it with a car around it, or not at all.
My source is not Bubba by the way, but CompCams stating a 2200+ convertor is advised.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Well, CompCams may know that 2200 rpm is a good power band for the cam they sold you; but, I don't know how much they understand about automatic transmissions, torque converters and the nuances of selecting the right converter based on how the car is being used. 
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 29
From: The Netherlands
