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Working on 72 corvette. Pulled front brakes and having a problem with both spindle nuts. They were replaced before I bought car.
It appears the threads on the spindle need to be chased and it might be 20 TPI. Does anyone know exactly what size the die in diameter and threads / inch are for this car. Working with son, it is his car.
What we are doing is a brake job but the spindle nut is just too tight to get a feel for the bearing play and runout checks.
So if anyone can help with size here and where to buy it would be most appreciated.
This is a strange one. While I've never heard of bad threads on a spindle or nut and can't imagine them being that way since day one, setting front wheel bearing clearance is not dependant on applying torque any way. Once clearance is at 'zero' the nut is backed off to the first available cotter pin slot.
I've seen many that have a 'notchy' feeling from the castellated nut but nothing that required any sort of muscle.
This is a strange one. While I've never heard of bad threads on a spindle or nut and can't imagine them being that way since day one, setting front wheel bearing clearance is not dependant on applying torque any way. Once clearance is at 'zero' the nut is backed off to the first available cotter pin slot.
I've seen many that have a 'notchy' feeling from the castellated nut but nothing that required any sort of muscle.
You are right. But the threads make it difficult to bring the nut up smooth. Normally I finger tighten the nut while turning the hub and then back off to key slot. But this nut is tight and must be turned with wrench. It will go up but difficult to get the 'zero' point feel.
In situations like this I usually take a fine hacksaw blade and chase the thread at an angle on both sides of the thread. I then use a small triangle shaped file for final clean up.
Sounds like someone use the wrong thread nut or got it crossed threaded prior to your purchase.
You are right. But the threads make it difficult to bring the nut up smooth. Normally I finger tighten the nut while turning the hub and then back off to key slot. But this nut is tight and must be turned with wrench. It will go up but difficult to get the 'zero' point feel.
I would bet that 95% of cars need a wrench to get to the zero point. What I've always done is spin the wheel while I tighten the nut. As the zero point is approached, the wheel will slow down rapidly and the nut torque rises dramatically. I back off and repeat this three or four times to ensure the wrench always ends up at the same spot, meaning that everything is seated. Back off to the next slot, install the pin and off we go.