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Can someone tell me how to test the headlight actuators,need to make sure their working before I put them in.As I remember one of the forum members had a web site, that showed you how to test all of the headlight components,but I can't seem to find it.
Thanks Neil.
When they were out, I just moved the actuator rod back and forth while holding my finger over the vaccum hose connections. If you push the rod all the way in, then hold your finger over the metal tube on the opposite side of the actuator (flat side without the rod), you should not be able to pull the rod back out, because it can't suck air in to allow the rod to move out, indicating your seal is good. On the other side, pull the rod all the way out plug the tube on the rod side and try to push the rod back in. Again, if all your seals are good, it should not go in. If it works for the first test, and not the second, it is probably your rod seal. If it does not work on the first test, it is probably internal.
Mako's test is good way. Another is to get a brake bleeding pump (those cheap plastic vacuum pumps) and hook up a hose between it and the actuator. Start pumping and see if they actuate or if they leak air.
Heck after I changed my seal and boot I just blew in one end and held my finger over the other. Once the rod actuated no more air could be blown in and it held air so I was happy. Give it a quick blow :eek: er I mean test :D
2001 zo6 head light actuator motor leftside test before reassemble
is there a way to test the motor out to see if it moves or not before you out the whole headlight assembly back together again i plugged it up but only the right side move that was still istalled not the left sde that was out of the car, except for the motor plugged up it did not move was it supppose to move
If the vacuum supply line going to the headlight area has adequate vacuum level (12+ "Hg), then just stick that feed line on one of the two fittings on the servo can. The headlight bucket should actuate...either UP or DOWN, depending on which fitting you selected. Then swap line over to the other fitting to test. Do this on both actuators. (This leaves the relays totally out of the system. They're usually the problem with 'weak' system behavior, anyway.)
If everything works as expected, the servo actuators are not your problem. Either the relay(s) are leaky/defective and/or the bucket mechanisms are binding up.