Wow....am I glad I put this transmission in my car. Really all I have left to do before paint is this minor temp problem I have been dealing with(see my other thread if you want) and a minor shifting thing. I'm not a trans mechanic but have learned a lot through these forums. I bought the core on craigslist for $50. It had a TCI sticker on top. The guy said it wouldn't go into 4th. I broke it down and reassembled with a new rebuild kit. Wish I didn't because everything inside was clean, unworn and looked brand new with clean fluid and no metal. Installed TCI L/U circuit with 4th gear and vacuum switch. I think the TV cable is adjusted correctly. Drives and shifts real good under most conditions except slow acceleration. It then seems to shift all the way into 4th by 25mph. If the converter locks that's only 750 rpms and as you can imagine boggs down the engine.

I was told the govenor only affects the WOT shift point while the TV cable can affect the partial throttle shift points.
Is this true and could this be a valve body issue?

I'm not a 100% possitive this is a TCI but I would bet on since it had what appeared to be heavy duty internal improvements and a few non stock changes. And if it is, I don't know what stage.

Thanks for any advice.

 

I know a 700R4 governor does affect the partial throttle shift points. I believe the rule of thumb in B&M's directions state the springs have more affect on the part throttle operation than the weights, but the weights and springs both play a part. I can tell you it doesn't take much to make a big difference.

I bought a B&M governor recalibration kit, and with trial and error got my 700R4 working pretty good in all instances. I also have a BTO linkage on the carburetor which made the part throttle shifting really easy to adjust.

Again I'm not sure if the 2004R is the same as the 700R4... I'm guessing it is, but I could be wrong.

Edit: I just google'd and it looks like the governor in the 200 is different than the 700 so the kit I'm talking about probably won't work.... again that is what some people on another forum stated...

 

http://www.jakesperformance.com/TV_C...etup_Info.html

Try this article


Neal

 

Bowtie overdrives has a lot of TV setup guidance on their site. I think to get it 100% spot on, you have to use a pressure gauge.

 

The governor is the primary controller of the shift point schedule and the WOT rpm shift point. The TV (throttle valve) cable system is how the governor shift points get modified, depending on the amount of throttle that is opened. With these transmission changeovers, the most difficult thing to get correct is the TV cable linkage and adjustment.

There are many descriptions of how to set up the TV system but it really boils down to this: As the TV cable is pulled out from the transmission, that movement causes a proportional increase in TV pressure. TV pressure and Governor pressure are used to manage the valve timing in the valve body. What needs to happen is that at the point where the throttle is just beginning to crack, TV pressure needs to be starting to increase; then, at a 100% throttle position (WOT), TV pressure needs to be at maximum.

So, the only good way to set the system up is to buy an inexpensive 0-300 psi pressure gauge (Harbor Freight, etc.), about 8 feet of #4 high pressure hose, and a fitting which will connect that hose and gauge to the TV pressure tap on the left side of the transmission case.

With the engine running, tranny in Park and the TV cable not connected to the throttle linkage, you can pull on that cable to find 1) at what point TV pressure begins to increase; and 2) at what point the TV pressure is maximized. Using some method of reference between the TV cable itself and the throttle linkage on the carb, those two positions in the movement of the TV cable must be marked so that you can make sure the T-pin you place on the linkage moves at least that distance between those two points.

When you get the cable set up correctly, a 0% throttle setting on the accelerator pedal should find the TV cable set at or just past the starting point of pressure increase, and the 100% throttle setting where the TV pressure has been maximized.

The experience I had with setting my TV cable indicates that setting the cable by any other means than via TV pressure readings is 'risky' and could lead to poor shift quality and/or clutch failures.

 

^ this is how I adjusted mine.

 

The easy way to set throttle link is to measure the extent of the pull the cable has, say 2.5" or so....I forget....and then to make sure the throttle cable is fully back on the large square tab operated end on the engine side....then open the throttle with engine off, pulling that cable tighT and so pulling the cable shroud through the tab....

that is supposedly the factory adjustment procedure.....and on a assy line basis it makes sense.....

I find it works great for my cars 700 and 200 same thing....same cable for that matter....

 

Mrvette does provide the 'generic' approach to TV cable adjustment. But, that doesn't deal with the specifics of how that cable actually functions. At the beginning of travel on the TV cable, there is a constant (baseline) pressure level that exists; and it stays that way for some distance until the TV valve reaches the point where increased pressure actually begins. When you set the cable at 0% throttle on your linkage, you want to be at the start of the increasing pressure...not below that point (in the region of baseline pressure). If you do set the 0% throttle point lower that desired, then the pressure schedule throughout the range of TV valve travel will be lower that required. And that is what causes excessive clutch wear on these transmissions.

 

And the problem most of the time factory adjusting procedures are attempted on a modified intake and or carb set up which generally affects the geometry on which the factory bases there adjustment procedures on.

 

Both correct, sorry, but I forgot to mention to have the cable shroud/outer covering pulled out a bit from the plastic tab housing near the t-body/carb....so to then open the thing wide with engine still and that should get you pretty well within range....you can of course hitch it back to relax t-pressures in the tranny, but if you try to take it up much the next time you floor the engine, it will pull that shroud to the same position it would be in if done the suggested way....

I build my trannies with a TRANS GO shift kit and leave the stuff to Gil Younger, and over some ~40 years his outfit has been correct every time...not that I build trannies for a living .....but have many miles on his stuff and so do things HIS way.....

 

Hey it all good, no toe stepping intended here. We are here to educate the ones who ask.

 

Early 4th gear shift is one of the reasons I install the B&M converter controller. It locks/unlocks the converter by speed through the speedometer cable instead of throttle position or vacuum switch.
I set mine to lock just above 45mph and unlock just under 40mph. No more low rpm chugging, makes it completely hands free. Others have used a toggle switch to do the same thing. Just turn off the switch and the converter will not lock.