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Rotor Runout check?

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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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Default Rotor Runout check?

Hi

I'm after installing new front rotors and have a couple of questions regarding runout... Did a search but didnt find exactly what i'm looking for.

I have ordered a dial indicator from summit.

Where do I measure the runout from? the very edge of the rotor or the edge where the bolts are?

What amount is acceptable? The calipers have new O-rings installed.

thanks
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 10:42 AM
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I'm surprised that you couldn't buy/borrow a dial indicator locally. Shipping from the US must be a killer, not to mention duty.

Measure the runout on the outer edge of the area swept by the brake pads. Try to get it below .005" although some say that .008" is OK.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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I checked mine on the rotor surface that will contact the brake pads. Then I cut shims from a beer can and placed on the wheel studs between the spindle and rotor until I got within spec.

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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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thanks for the advice

luckily my brother in Boston is coming home for Christmas and bringing my summit order with him... no shipping tax or duty costs!

As in the picture posted: I should measure the run-out from the centre where the pad meets the surface?

Is it ok to use the coke can shims permanently?

thanks
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Yes, you can use the "Coke" alum. can cut shims permanently. Mine have been in for years and still do their job. You may have to experiment by moving the shim material between various studs to get the measurement down to where you want it. I've aimed at .003.

Ralph.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by redman76
Then I cut shims from a beer can and placed on the wheel studs between the spindle and rotor until I got within spec.

Now there's a first. Straightening a wobble with beer.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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I know that is the way Lars does it.

Ralph.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
Now there's a first. Straightening a wobble with beer.
Ah, yes, beer......the solution to (and the cause of) most of life's problems.........I used the beer can shims, too, thought I was being pretty clever, but I guess it turns out that quite a few folks have done exactly the same thing. I guess great minds DO think alike!!

My 2 cents worth is to make sure you put some sort of an index mark on the rotor and the spindle, so that when you are removing and replacing the rotor, you can be sure you are putting the same five holes on the same 5 studs. And measure the runout as close to the outer edge of the rotor as you can, it'll be more precise that way. See ya,


Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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Hey thanks for all the advice:

One last question; when measuring the runout the first time is it ok to have the caliper and pads on the car?
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by briaineo
Hey thanks for all the advice:

One last question; when measuring the runout the first time is it ok to have the caliper and pads on the car?
I suppose so, just on the off chance that the runout will not need to be adjusted. But I'll bet a dollar that it will!!


Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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I can usually tell by just running the car on stands and watching the pads and rotor for movement. You can tell if it moves a lot. But, the axles need to be supported so the u-joints dont bind and cause shafts to jump around.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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Default My 2 cents worth

I am sure it does not make a lot of difference, but I would suggest using steel shim stock, you can buy it in some different thicknesses and I would think steel is a little better for shims than aluminum too. Also agree put the rotors on the same way, lug nuts same way, tighten the same way, all repeatable the same way, otherwise you introduce another variable and you can chase your tail and drive yourself nuts (ask me how I know!!!!)

Good luck and hope this helps!

(speaking of beer, you guys have the greatest Guiness on tap anywhere!!! ..............But hey, why should that be surprising!)

Last edited by 20mercury; Dec 9, 2011 at 09:23 PM.
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