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I checked mine on the rotor surface that will contact the brake pads. Then I cut shims from a beer can and placed on the wheel studs between the spindle and rotor until I got within spec.
Yes, you can use the "Coke" alum. can cut shims permanently. Mine have been in for years and still do their job. You may have to experiment by moving the shim material between various studs to get the measurement down to where you want it. I've aimed at .003.
Now there's a first. Straightening a wobble with beer.
Ah, yes, beer......the solution to (and the cause of) most of life's problems.........I used the beer can shims, too, thought I was being pretty clever, but I guess it turns out that quite a few folks have done exactly the same thing. I guess great minds DO think alike!!
My 2 cents worth is to make sure you put some sort of an index mark on the rotor and the spindle, so that when you are removing and replacing the rotor, you can be sure you are putting the same five holes on the same 5 studs. And measure the runout as close to the outer edge of the rotor as you can, it'll be more precise that way. See ya,
I can usually tell by just running the car on stands and watching the pads and rotor for movement. You can tell if it moves a lot. But, the axles need to be supported so the u-joints dont bind and cause shafts to jump around.
I am sure it does not make a lot of difference, but I would suggest using steel shim stock, you can buy it in some different thicknesses and I would think steel is a little better for shims than aluminum too. Also agree put the rotors on the same way, lug nuts same way, tighten the same way, all repeatable the same way, otherwise you introduce another variable and you can chase your tail and drive yourself nuts (ask me how I know!!!!)
Good luck and hope this helps!
(speaking of beer, you guys have the greatest Guiness on tap anywhere!!! ..............But hey, why should that be surprising!)
Last edited by 20mercury; Dec 9, 2011 at 09:23 PM.