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Steering Box Removal?

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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Default Steering Box Removal?

Forum: I want to get my 74 steering box blueprinted. How much work to get it off and more importantly, get it back on properly!
It will not be moved while the box is off.
What do I need to look out for or worry about ?

Thanks for the help as always.

R

Time to have a car that goes where I point it!
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:22 PM
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Check out the Borgeson steering box .It bolts up with no mods,quick and precise steering.Had mine on for 2.5 years.This is a power steering box that eliminates the control valve and steering ram.Great unit and best of all no more constant leaks.If you want to keep your original box drop a line to gtr1999 Gary can rebuild your box to better than new.I wouldn't waste my time on the so called refurbished boxes..Alohas'
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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not hard to get it off. You will need a puller for the pittman arm. You should buy a new rag joint when you put it back on. you will prolly want to check the alignment when you are done. I would also replace or rebuild the rest of the parts at the same time...
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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Reread my post Bra, I'm getting blueprinted, not rebuilt.
I still need an answer to my orignal question?
How much time and trouble to remove/reinstall?

R
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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I just removed my steering box on Sunday and it took about 30 minutes or so. There are 3 bolts mounting the box to the frame. Plus, you will need to disconnect the rag joint to separate the steering box from the steering column.

As for the pitman arm removal, I rented a pitman arm puller from Autozone. The arm did not want to release after cranking pretty hard, so I read that if you hit the center of the pitman arm puller with a little grunt it creates a shock that helps the pitman arm to release. Once I hit the puller with a little finesse the pitman arm came right off. If I were doing a removal again it would probably take about 15 minutes... or less.

Can't comment on reinstalling but would be much the same just in reverse.

Jim
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
Reread my post Bra, I'm getting blueprinted, not rebuilt.
I still need an answer to my orignal question?
How much time and trouble to remove/reinstall?

R
What is the difference between rebuilt and blueprinted???
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Default Fair Question

Do a search and you will see many of us are NOT HAPPY w/stk steering.
There are the choices of replacing old w/stk or rebuilt parts.
Just like a blueprinted engine, the steeringbox parts are carefully measured, modified and reassembled.
Rebuilt parts are usually slammed together in a manner that is acceptable to most of us.
Blueprint means expensive handwork and a higher grade of quality!

This is the theory anyway. LOL

I have a rebuilt box, it is better than the old worn out steering box.
It is not up to the directional changes needed to keep 280 rwhp pointed in the correct direction as far as I am concerned. I need better steering before I can drive it hard.

R
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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Many years ago, when I had the steering gearbox out and apart, I had a machinist friend make new mainshaft bushings for me. The brand new Chevrolet bushings were way too sloppy. They allowed not only excessive play in the steering, but allowed oil to leak out of the bottom seal. I imagine a guy who blueprints the gearbox would do the same.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 12:21 AM
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Easy job. Ensure your tires are straight and your steering wheel centered. Spray the steering shaft rag joint area down with silicone or penetrating oil. Take the upper and lower steering shaft bolts out. Maybe even pound a flat blade screw driver in the opening to make it loose on the steering shaft splines

Take the ball joint off the boxes pitman arm.

Take the three bolts off the box to the frame.

Remove the steering box and remove the pitman arm.

I replaced my rag joint with a new one. But Summit racing sells the correct stainless steel U-joint knuckle replacement. I was in on some posts about the correct part number because one side has bigger spine shaft sizes. The U-joint would not have the flex of a rag joint over the years
Old Dec 14, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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No one is happy with old, worn-out stock steering components. But, for those of us who have driven "New" C3's....there aren't many who would complain about the quality of the steering before it gets worn.

And, a properly rebuilt and serviced stock steering system is just fine, unless you expect handling performance beyond the original design parameters of the car.
Old Dec 14, 2011 | 04:47 PM
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George: Do you think a new u joint would be better than the rag joint, how much better and how much $?
7T1 Vette: You might be happy w/new stk, but many of us are looking for something better!

R
Old Dec 14, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
George: Do you think a new u joint would be better than the rag joint, how much better and how much $?
7T1 Vette: You might be happy w/new stk, but many of us are looking for something better!

R
Jim Shea has recently made comments on this re frame vs steering column movements: the purpose of the rag joint. Worth a search.
Old Dec 14, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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[QUOTE=

Time to have a car that goes where I point it![/QUOTE]

Taijutsu,

If you're fair dinkum about that statement, then I recommend that you ditch the entire stock steering system and fit a Borgeson #800108 integral power steering box. You will get rid of your power "assisted" MANUAL steering box, leak-prone control valve AND steering ram, along with the factory slow 16:1 steering ratio and replace it with a modern integral power steering box.

The box contains both the control valve, but a 21st. century one, along with the power ram, just like you'll find in a modern car. The ratio is a much more Corvette-friendly 12.7:1 ratio, without losing any of the stock steering lock and without gaining any bump steer, unlike other systems. You retain your stock drag link, tie rods, power steering pump and Pitman arm.

Call Jeff Grantmeyer at Borgeson on 860-482-8283, or www.borgeson.com and bring your car's steering into the 21st. century.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
George: Do you think a new u joint would be better than the rag joint, how much better and how much $?
7T1 Vette: You might be happy w/new stk, but many of us are looking for something better!

R
It seems to me that the SS u-joint was $48 and well worth it. I just already had the new rag. I don't remember the correct spline numbers on each end. Maybe Gary (GRT1999) on digital corrvettes would know or the archives I gave the part number

As to the Borgeson box and 12.7 If you Auto-X and only drive slow a quicker ratio works fine. Once you go up in speed even 16 from the stock box is too fast
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
As to the Borgeson box and 12.7 If you Auto-X and only drive slow a quicker ratio works fine. Once you go up in speed even 16 from the stock box is too fast
I just auto crossed for the first time last year and loved it. Did not love the wondering feel of my steering. I'm rebuilding entire front suspension and "while I'm at it" replacing stock steering with borgeson box. I can't wait to auto cross next year with the updated steering. Should help improve my time.

Jim
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Contrary to all the posters who answered before me, you do not have to remove the pitman arm from the steering box to remove the box from the frame...one ragg joint pinch bolt, one tie rod nut and 3 box to frame bolts...one of which is kind of hidden. Wrenches, ratchet, sockets and a pickle fork. It's not a big project and 30 minutes is enough time.
Old Dec 15, 2011 | 12:07 PM
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Default Steering Universal?

George: I read the paper by Jim Shea and still don't completly understand?
My take is that the rag joing allows flex in our old flexible cars. LOL
Is the advantage of the U joint that it does not flex and will stay solid longer?
I can see that if the shafts are not matched properly, there will be big problems w/steering. I get that.
As usual I'm just looking for the best bang for the buck!
I believe my rag joing was already replaced.
Remember we don't all drive the speeds you do!

R

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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Default Rag Joint

Running the Borgeson box and SS U joint 2 1/2 years now.The rag joint that I received with the Borgeson kit did not have shoulder bolts.The rubber coupling was compressed which I didn't think was a good thing.Went with the u joint instead.Steering is very responsive.compared to what it was before the change.very satisfied with the results....Alohas
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Old Oct 28, 2021 | 07:09 PM
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Default gearbox

Originally Posted by iokepakai
Check out the Borgeson steering box .It bolts up with no mods,quick and precise steering.Had mine on for 2.5 years.This is a power steering box that eliminates the control valve and steering ram.Great unit and best of all no more constant leaks.If you want to keep your original box drop a line to gtr1999 Gary can rebuild your box to better than new.I wouldn't waste my time on the so called refurbished boxes..Alohas'


im looking online currently to replace my gear box now do i have to buy the borgeson steering box conversion kit or will the steering box alone do the job and i can utilize my power-steering lines that i have. i also i have a new rag joint as well. I was told that those to could be the reason that my steering wheel has about 2-3 inches of play in it.

Last edited by stolbert100; Oct 28, 2021 at 07:12 PM.
Old Oct 28, 2021 | 07:23 PM
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Just have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the column / rag joint / steering box - you will see whatever the slop is right away.



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