Guys, I would like to buy basic timing tools in order to tune my motor.
I was looing for a vacuum gauge, a dialback timing light and a dwell meter.
I've found different Actron timing light at Summit Racing (CP7527, CP7528, CP7529). Which one is the good one??? I suppose the CP7528... but I would like to be sure! Thanks!

 

Iron Dog,
I just got a Sears Craftsman Professional series advance timing light for $99.00 at their tool store.
The advancee is nice and it also has a tach feature.
Digital reading makes it nice.
For as infrequently as it gets used I couldn't see spending allot of money on a snap on.
Vacuum guage is also a great idea I'm buying one soon.
Dwell meter makes it easier than setting points with a feeler guage.
A couple nice longer thin screw drivers for carb adjustments lets you reach easier too
Marshal

 

The CP7529 looks about the same as the one marshal135 is talking about. I've never used Actron so I don't know how reliable they are. I'm a Craftsman guy myself so I'd run down to Sears and get one for 99.00. Take shipping plus the wait time and you can have one cheaper today. I think I got my vacuum gauge at Sears as well. Also bought a RPM/Volt/Dwell meter from Sears. That should be all you need. If you havn't seen it, take a look at this paper for tuning.

How to Set Your Timing for Peak Performance
by Lars Grimsrud
Lafayette, CO
“90% of all “carb problems” are ignition timing problems.”
(Lars Grimsrud)
This tech paper will discuss setting the timing on a Chevy V8. This procedure also applies to other GM V8s.
The procedure outlined here differs from the Service Manual, and is based on my years of experience doing this work in the
quickest, least painful, most economical way while keeping the level of quality high. It is recognized that other people will
have different methods of doing things, and may disagree with specific methods and procedures that I use.
How to Set the Timing
When you think about it, setting the timing at idle speed makes no sense at all: You don’t operate your car at idle, and timing
changes as the rpm changes. Fact is, the timing spec at idle speed is provided as a simple way for most people to set the
timing, and is not a good procedure for optimum performance.
Small block Chevys (and most other GM performance V8 engines) perform best when the total timing (full centrifugal
advance plus the initial timing setting with vacuum advance hose disconnected) is all in by 2,500 – 2,800 rpm and is set to
about 36 degrees. If you have an adjustable timing light, this is very easy to check. If you don’t, you need to scribe a 36-
degree mark on your harmonic balancer. Here’s how:
Measure the circumference of your harmonic balancer using a sewing tape measure (or other flexible tape measure). Get it as
accurate as you can. Take this measurement and divide by 10. The number you get is the distance to 36 degrees. Measure
this distance CLOCKWISE from your existing harmonic balancer timing mark as viewed from the front of the engine and
place a clear mark on the balancer.
Remove your distributor cap and rotor. If you have a points-style distributor with the stock, factory, heavy springs in place,
remove one of the springs. Disconnect the vacuum advance. Install the rotor and cap. Loosen the distributor hold-down
clamp bolt just enough so that the distributor can by turned, yet leave it snug enough that the distributor will hold its position.
Start the engine. If you’re using an adjustable timing light, set the light to 36 degrees advanced. Now rev the engine while
observing the timing marks with the light. You will notice that the stock line on the balancer will move up towards the
timing plate as rpm increases. Continue to increase rpm until the line does not move any further (centrifugal advance is
“pegged out”). Once the timing is “pegged out,” the line on the balancer should line up with the “0” mark on the timing tab.
Rotate the distributor to achieve this.
If you’re using a non-adjustable light, perform the same process, but align your new 36-degree mark with “0” mark on the
timing tab.
Shut it down.
Pop the cap and rotor and re-install the spring, if you removed it. Put everything back together, but leave the vacuum
disconnected. Start it up. For future reference, make a note of the timing setting at idle. This is your new curb idle timing
spec. Now give the engine a few quick rev’s past 3,000 rpm and verify that the full timing (36 degrees) is coming in. If it’s
not, you need to change to a softer set of springs until you get full 36-degree advance before 3000 rpm. (NOTE: A stock set
of springs will often not allow full centrifugal advance to come in before redline rpm. If you have heavy stock springs
installed, don’t rev the engine beyond its limits to try to force full advance in.) I suggest obtaining Mr. Gasket kit part
number 927 or 928: Use the gold springs on HEI systems. For points-style systems, use one black spring and one silver
spring – these springs will get your total timing all in by 2500-2800 rpm, providing very good throttle response and power.
The black & silver spring combo can also be used on MSD distributors if you widen out the spring hook ends.
Hook up the vacuum. Re-set your idle speed and idle mixtures if necessary to lower the idle speed. Now do a road test.
The 36-degree 2500 rpm advance curve is optimum for performance, but may require premium fuel. Lug the car around, and
punch the throttle at low rpm while listening for detonation (“engine knock”). If you’re getting any audible knock, you
MUST retard the timing. Retard the timing in 2-degree increments until engine knock stops. Engine knock will seriously
damage engine components if not corrected. If you get no knock, you may see slightly improved performance at 38 degrees
total timing. This is particularly true if you’re running at high altitude.
If you have no engine knock under acceleration, but the car “chugs” or “jerks” at cruising speed (light throttle application),
you are getting too much vacuum advance on top of the mechanical advance. You may need to change out the vacuum
advance diaphragm with a unit producing no more than 16 degrees of vacuum advance. See my paper on “Vacuum Advance
Control Units Facts and Specs” for more info on this.
Your timing is now set for best possible performance. Make note of the new setting, and use this for your future tune-up
work.
Lars’ Suggested Timing Specs for GM V8 Performance Applications:
• 36 degrees total timing (vacuum advance hose disconnected), all “in” by 2500 rpm
• 18 degrees initial timing at idle (vacuum advance hose disconnected). Note that it may not be possible to achieve the
18-degree initial spec with the 36-degree total without modifying the distributor advance stop system. It is more
important to achieve the 36 total than to hit an exact 18 initial. However, if your initial timing is very low (below 12
degrees) with the 36 total, it is important that you repair or modify your distributor in order to achieve correct engine
performance
• 16 degree vacuum advance control unit with a pull-in spec that allows the full range of vacuum advance to be pulled
in at the engine’s idle manifold vacuum level. Connect to manifold vacuum for most applications (this will allow
the engine to idle with actual timing at idle of 34 degrees).

 

Thank you guys! As I live in Europe, it's best for me to buy from UK.
Does anybody knows this one:
Timing light with advance

Thanks

 

I don't have any experience with the light you have posted above but I would think it would suit your needs.

 

Looks like you're on the right track with the mentioned light, as looks like it has dial back for checking distributor centrifugal advance. For the vacuum gauge, maybe consider a Mity Vac kit/w gauge, as can be used for for brake bleeding, HVAC vacuum motor testing, ext. Also pumps positve pressure from the top port if needed. I have a Silverline series with all kinds of fittings and brake bleed container. Very handy tool to have.

 

A dial-back timing light is very desirable, and a vacuum gauge is a must (especially if you are going to do any vacuum system diagnostics). You only need a dwell meter if you have a "points" type system. And if you have points, you should first decide if you want to keep them or change out to an electronic ignition system of some type. Many dwell meters also perform as a tachometer, which is useful for setting idle speeds, etc.

I still have points in mine and have no problems with it. So I still need a dwell meter.

 

I have the actron CP7528 and their vacuum gauge. No complaints!

 

Same here, I like the Dual mode. My Tach in the car runs about 350 rpm higher then what the one on the timing light. When I first got the car i thought damn this idles high was idling at 1300 rpm with the timing light in tach mode it is 940.

 

Guys,
I've found this timing light that has advance and also dwell and tach meter. It seems good, but my question is: if I have to check the tachometer while I'm looking for the advance, how can I do it if the measurements come from the same tool?

 

I have a "points" type systems and I would like to keep it (if I will make it work!!!)

 

The MityVac kit you have is beautiful but it costs a lot for me!! Maybe
THIS ONE is better for my wallet... but thank you for the advice!

 

Dont forget a distributor wrench

You know you can always heat/bend up one and make your own.

 

With mine I can just hit a button and it switches between them. Once you get the RPMs were you want them just switch to the timing .

 

The actron CP7528 is only an dial advance timing light. Actron makes an inexpensive tach and dwell meter so you can have tach and timing at the same time.

 

My Bad I have the Actron CP7529 which is dual mode.

 

I was going to buy the CP7529 but the extra display and added electronics scared me off. I guess I'm old school.

 

The problem is that it's hard form me to find an european distributor for Actron stuff. I would not want to order it from the US and then pay shipping costs and taxes....

 

Which one is good for my distributor?

 

Get one for a GM 8 Cylinder. It will be a 9/16.