global west trailing arm e-brake routing difficulty
#1
Safety Car
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global west trailing arm e-brake routing difficulty
Hi This is my first post. I am hoping my photos will show up, they haven't in the preview but maybe when I post they will upload.
Anyway I've been upgrading my 69 Stingray (frame off) and have installed Global West's lower A-arms and trailing arms. No trouble with the front, but the rear has me concerned that I don't get something. I'd like to find somebody who's installed these and compare notes. The first problem I encountered was the size and location of the hole in the sheet metal between the tubes that is intended to accept the cable. I had to ream out the hole to get the cable sleeve through. And then, looking at where it is, it seemed to me that it should have been placed aft. Here is a picture with a bolt seated square on the flange.
Note that it contacts the sheet metal behind the hole and at an acute angle. So the next step would seem to be to enlarge the hole, which I did.
Now the cable sleeve goes through OK and will seat square on the flange (assuming I get the proper clips). However since it normally routes under the trailing arm, a lot more sleeve is pushed towards the flange on the frame. This results in an S-bend and it takes a considerable amount of muscle to get both ends in place.
This means more sliding friction on the cable itself and I am concerned that this won't release and/or can't be used for trail braking. I haven't yet modified the other trailing arm as , well, who knows, maybe I am doing something wrong.
The installation instructions on the Global West site do not say anything about the emergency brake cable. And there are no pictures nor have I found anything on a general search of the internet. I gave GW a call and while they were mindful, really offered no solution. They suggested that I had a non-standard setup. I have a friend with a 68 so I sent in some pictures of both cars and we have identical stock welds and flanges. The only thing I can think would make them say that is maybe later years are different somehow. Parts catalogs all show one cable only however. Any experience with this situation would be very welcome to me!
Anyway I've been upgrading my 69 Stingray (frame off) and have installed Global West's lower A-arms and trailing arms. No trouble with the front, but the rear has me concerned that I don't get something. I'd like to find somebody who's installed these and compare notes. The first problem I encountered was the size and location of the hole in the sheet metal between the tubes that is intended to accept the cable. I had to ream out the hole to get the cable sleeve through. And then, looking at where it is, it seemed to me that it should have been placed aft. Here is a picture with a bolt seated square on the flange.
Note that it contacts the sheet metal behind the hole and at an acute angle. So the next step would seem to be to enlarge the hole, which I did.
Now the cable sleeve goes through OK and will seat square on the flange (assuming I get the proper clips). However since it normally routes under the trailing arm, a lot more sleeve is pushed towards the flange on the frame. This results in an S-bend and it takes a considerable amount of muscle to get both ends in place.
This means more sliding friction on the cable itself and I am concerned that this won't release and/or can't be used for trail braking. I haven't yet modified the other trailing arm as , well, who knows, maybe I am doing something wrong.
The installation instructions on the Global West site do not say anything about the emergency brake cable. And there are no pictures nor have I found anything on a general search of the internet. I gave GW a call and while they were mindful, really offered no solution. They suggested that I had a non-standard setup. I have a friend with a 68 so I sent in some pictures of both cars and we have identical stock welds and flanges. The only thing I can think would make them say that is maybe later years are different somehow. Parts catalogs all show one cable only however. Any experience with this situation would be very welcome to me!
Last edited by ignatz; 12-30-2011 at 07:58 PM. Reason: add pictures
#2
Hi Cliff,
You need to upload your photos to a hosting site like Photobucket or something similar. Photobucket is free and let's you host a bunch of photos. Then you copy and paste the image tag from the hosting site by using the tools above. Right now you are pulling the image files straight from your computer and that won't work because you aren't serving your files from your computer to the net.
Good luck.
You need to upload your photos to a hosting site like Photobucket or something similar. Photobucket is free and let's you host a bunch of photos. Then you copy and paste the image tag from the hosting site by using the tools above. Right now you are pulling the image files straight from your computer and that won't work because you aren't serving your files from your computer to the net.
Good luck.
#4
Melting Slicks
Don't know the solution but will be following this thread since I am planning to install the GW pieces myself.
#5
Hi ignatz,
Glad you got the photos up!
Those trailing arms look pretty cool. I didn't even know there was an aftermarket rear trailing arm for our cars.
I'm kind of having a hard time seeing a real issue with the set up you've shown. Just because there's a curve in the e-Brake line, by looking at the pics you provided, it's hard to see how it's operation could be negatively affected. Are you experiencing any operational difficulties with the e-Brake in this present scenario?
Thanks
Glad you got the photos up!
Those trailing arms look pretty cool. I didn't even know there was an aftermarket rear trailing arm for our cars.
I'm kind of having a hard time seeing a real issue with the set up you've shown. Just because there's a curve in the e-Brake line, by looking at the pics you provided, it's hard to see how it's operation could be negatively affected. Are you experiencing any operational difficulties with the e-Brake in this present scenario?
Thanks
#6
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Brando1118: The arms are pretty sturdy, both front and rear. The reason I bought these, other than strength is that they have a spherical bearing mount at the front. That eliminates any binding at what would otherwise be a rubber or poly bushing. That's pretty cool. However it bothers me that they haven't engineered this part of the design any better and/or haven't provided clear direction. Why should I have to be spending any time enlarging holes with files and reamers to make things fit? Makes me think I don't know what I'm doing.
I can definitely feel more drag in the cable by hand. Consider that it will rub in two places along the "S". Car won't be running for months and since everything is so accessible right now I want to get it right the first time.
They must have sold a bunch of these by now. Hope to hear from a happy user.
You're welcome
I can definitely feel more drag in the cable by hand. Consider that it will rub in two places along the "S". Car won't be running for months and since everything is so accessible right now I want to get it right the first time.
They must have sold a bunch of these by now. Hope to hear from a happy user.
You're welcome
#7
Melting Slicks
Brando1118: The arms are pretty sturdy, both front and rear. The reason I bought these, other than strength is that they have a spherical bearing mount at the front. That eliminates any binding at what would otherwise be a rubber or poly bushing. That's pretty cool. However it bothers me that they haven't engineered this part of the design any better and/or haven't provided clear direction. Why should I have to be spending any time enlarging holes with files and reamers to make things fit? Makes me think I don't know what I'm doing.
I can definitely feel more drag in the cable by hand. Consider that it will rub in two places along the "S". Car won't be running for months and since everything is so accessible right now I want to get it right the first time.
They must have sold a bunch of these by now. Hope to hear from a happy user.
You're welcome
I can definitely feel more drag in the cable by hand. Consider that it will rub in two places along the "S". Car won't be running for months and since everything is so accessible right now I want to get it right the first time.
They must have sold a bunch of these by now. Hope to hear from a happy user.
You're welcome
I installed Spherical Bearings in my Stock Trailing Arms in the mid 80's along with the Front A-Arms. Made the Car Corner really well and intant responce. Only problem was You felt every grain of sand You drove over. Making Lane changes on the freeway You get real good at going between the **** cause if You hit them You might loose a filling. I switched to Poly Bushings and I consider them a Happy Medium.
#8
Melting Slicks
I was looking at the pics on the GW site. Is it possible that the cable goes below the TA like the stock TAs? Or through the larger opening in the forward part of the TA?
#9
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Kid Vette: Look at the top TA in the picture you posted, specifically the flange that captures the cable sheath. My photo with the rusty bolt is an enlargement of this area, but in the other direction. If the cable sits square to the flange, it clearly wants to go through the hole. When I first tried to fish the cable through, the hole was too small. So I called GW to be sure and Eric who responded to the call assured me that's where it went. It is simply to rigid to go anywhere else and I've tried. I'll shoot him an e-mail and see if he wants to comment!
#10
Instructor
For what it is worth, I relocated my E-brake cable to the top of the stock TA, have an S-bend in the cable, found it difficult to force the cable into position, but am not finding any problems with the use of the E-brake.
I attempted to attach a pdf that shows what I have done. Since I couldn't attach it, it is called More Bite for Old Sharks - How to Fit Wider Tires on 68-82 Corvettes on a Budget (by Bob Wallace). If you Google this and then look at the pics, you will see the final product has an S-bend much worse than yours. I think this would only be a problem if you were driving as in the Ken Block Gymkhana video.
I attempted to attach a pdf that shows what I have done. Since I couldn't attach it, it is called More Bite for Old Sharks - How to Fit Wider Tires on 68-82 Corvettes on a Budget (by Bob Wallace). If you Google this and then look at the pics, you will see the final product has an S-bend much worse than yours. I think this would only be a problem if you were driving as in the Ken Block Gymkhana video.
#11
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Found it Bob, good article, and yes that bend looks pretty severe. Ken Block I'm not, but this car is being set up to autocross, hence my concern. I'll give this thread a little more time, then if nothing, hog out the other TA and move on.
#13
Melting Slicks
#14
Melting Slicks
I was a little surprised to see somebody new entering the C2-C3 Trailing Arm Market. I thought the Florida Guys had this pretty much cover'd. I don't see any advantage over the ones that have been on the Market for the last 25 Years.
#15
Burning Brakes
This is a interesting read, I've got some of the GW trailing arms coming, with my new upgraded rear end build, they look a lot stronger than the factory vette arms, and look stronger than any other aftermarket option, should be interesting to see how they perform
Dave
Dave
#16
I have those same trailing arms but haven't finished the install yet. From your writeup and pictures, it appears you are using the mounting tab as "ground truth" and making everything else fit the angle of the mounting tab. If the mounting tab was bent slightly, might the cable route through the larger hole and allow a more gradual bend in the cable?
#17
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I'm happy to hear from somebody in the same situation. That tab is 1/8" thick, nicely welded and powder coated and more or less "aimed" at the round, too-small hole. It won't move in the direction you suggest without a fight. And according to GW, the cable is supposed to go through the hole. When I spoke with them, I can directly quote what the rep said, it was "you're on the right track". Not quite how I would have phrased things. Keep us apprised of your progress please!
#19
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yup a picture would help a lot. The second guy I spoke with at GW said that the trailing arms were supposed to have a teardrop shaped hole and promised to send pictures. Hasn't happened yet. If and when I get them I will post.
#20
Racer
How does the angle of the cable look when the trailing arm is sitting up in its normal position (ie wheels on with the weight of the car) and not sitting in the fully down position?