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I am a new member and a new owner of a 72 corvette. I have been in the process of getting the car in tune and I think I have now found out why it has been so difficult. I think I have solid lifters, I was wondering how I can tell for sure? The motor is a 327 CE stamped motor that i am slowly but sure figuring out. I think the previous owner set the lifters as if it was a hydrolic motor and i think this is why I have not been able to get to the state of tune I am happy with.
the easiest way is to look at the lifter, on top on a hydraulic lifter there will be a clip holding the plunger in like a u shaped wire. loosen a couple rockers and see if it rattles louder. I'm inclined to think it has solid lifters, they were very popular years ago.
The motor is together and so I can not see the lifters. When I went to set the valve lash, I was under the impression is was a hydrolic lifter motor. I took up the lash on the number one cylinder and started to turn it down a half turn and the valve started to go down right away?
Was wondering if anybody has an Idea of where to set the lash at?
Adjusting valve lash on a hydraulic-lifter small block chevy, 1/2 turn (180 degrees) after it stops clattering... (with motor WARM and running) that was what I was taught on my 283 and 350 years ago.
I have never dealt with a solid lifter engine, so I don't have those figures right off the top of my head. But, since you are posting on this forum, you obviously have internet access, so my suggestion is to do a google search, you will have an answer in about ten seconds, as opposed to waiting, and waiting for an answer on this forum.
Setting a hydrolic motor is not the issue i have done that cold several times over the years on rebuilds. I tryied it once with this motor hot. Issue is if the motor is a solid lifter motor. Thanks for all the replys.
Ok i just varified I do have hydrolic lifters. I removed a rocker and push rod and looked down the whole. I have the telltell wire retainers at the top of the lifter. The lifter seam to not be bleeding down or compressing like i am use to in the past?
you really cannot go by looks....some solids have the wire clip, some do not
start the motor with the cover off and with the wooden handle of a hammer, push down on the pushrod side of any rocker firmly, if after a few revolutions you hear clatter or lash, you have hydraulics
you can use the heel of your hand also....good luck....
Well with the rocker off and pushing down as hard as i can on the top of the pushrod it will not go down at all. If i remeber correctly the last chevy I rebuitl with hydrolic lifters even new ones had some compresion. Also this is all on a stone cold engine right now. I have not started it yet this time around.
Well with the rocker off and pushing down as hard as i can on the top of the pushrod it will not go down at all. If i remeber correctly the last chevy I rebuitl with hydrolic lifters even new ones had some compresion. Also this is all on a stone cold engine right now. I have not started it yet this time around.
I'm thinking if you want to post about the issues you're having you'll get better help. Maybe lifters have nothing to do with it all. What are the symptoms you are trying to rectify.
As the car is a 72 with a 327 it is not origanal. I was told the motor had had the valves adjusted but i was suspect. I adjusted the valves warm as if a hydrolic motor. I then removed the crap headers and installed some stock ram horn manifolds and then noticed i had a loose valve. And it did not run like it did with the headers. As a result i am suspect that the motor has solid lifters. I have set timing, dwell, adjusted the carb, gaped the plugs, and changed ignition parts. The car has always seamed to be out of tune. This is my first excperance with a 327.
First thing comes to mind is a vacuum leak. Even a tight valve, especially with a misadjusted solid cam. Just start with basics. Vacuum lines compression and carburetor.
Crank it up and try to slowly adjust one valve. Back off till it clicks and then slowly tighten it. Once you eliminate the clicking as you tighten it down..go the other 1/2 turn or so and it will start to miss and run rough. Let it keep running and if it's a hyd the lifter will bleed down and it will start to idle better. If it coninues to run a few minutes and misses..and only improves when you back it off again..then I would suspect a solid cam.
Many solid and hyd lifters look identical on the outside. The less expensive solids use the little wire clips also instead of c-clips. The better hyd lifters use c-clips instead of the wires too.
You may just have a pretty big hyd cam in there that isn't going to idle too smooth. Does it lope any or does it sound stock?
I adjusted the motor for solid lifters per one of the threads on this site. It started right up and ran better then it has ever. I will not know for sure tell tomorrow when i can take it out. I did notice when i adjusted it last time running as per a hydrolic motor the idle increase as the lash increased a small amount