1971 LT-1 questions from inspection report
01-12-2012, 07:09 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
1971 LT-1 questions from inspection report
I am interested in purchasing a 1971 LT-1 coupe. In December I had a local NCRS judge inspect the car for me. The report yielded quite a few items that I am not sure are big deals or not. A little about the car; it was restored about 8 years ago by an NCRS judge professionally at the Chevy dealership he owns. The car is complete and sound with AIR system even. Has tank sheet and other documents and owner history. Most worried about the carb choke issue in RED. If something jumps out that would scare you away from buying the car, please let me know and comment on reasons. Thanks!
-Damage of a 1/8” diameter size hole on the driver side above the String Ray front fender emblem.(3 piece replacement nose at some point and on one side there is a bit of mounting hole exposed at Stingray emblem)
-Front bumper is has been replaced the fit on the passenger side stick out too far from the body.
-Windshield has been replaced with Pilkington brand not typical factory production 90% deduction.(appears to be from late 70's)
-Rear window has been damage by a sander scratch mask on the bottom edge. (scratches, not major)
-Rocker moldings are missing hard ware in the front attachment both sides.(simple to add screw back)
-The passenger door has added outside mirror not original to factory build.
-The front fender louver on the driver side is loose needs hardware to install to body.(simple to add screw back or tighten)
-The car has 2 sets of tires and wheels. For street driving has chromed rally wheel with larger size radial tires The show tires are correct size but configuration is not nylon cord they are super belt 30% deduction.
-The drive seat has been damaged showing poor repair in the lower seat back. (1/2" repair from hole wearing through, not major)
-The door panels are reproduction and the door pulls are a different shade of color match.
-The front doors jams are not black out painting is not typical production pattern.
-The door weather stripping has damage on the top edges both passenger and driver sides.(new rubber but appears to have been shaved a bit to fit better on door close)
-The door jambs paint is not the typical factory finish too shinny.
-The blue Vehicle Certification Label is not installed on the drives door. It was removed before repainting the car and has it in a folder for safe keeping.
-The rear storage compartment battery door is removed needs to be reinstalled.
-The battery is Delco currant type replacement 50% deduction.
Mechanical
Engine assembly date V0602 CGZ
V = Flint engine plant
06 = May
02 = 2nd day
CGZ = 330 HP 350 CI Corvette 1971 LT-1 engine manual transmission
Cylinder case part number 3970010
Casting date E 1 1
E = May
1 = 1st day
1 = year 1971
-Air cleaner filter not typical factory brand 100% deduction
-The wing nut to hold down air cleaner to carburetor to stud is missing.
Carburetor type Holley
Part number 3989021
Date code 1 1 2
1 = year 1971
2 = month February
2 = week of the month
-The choke rod in not attached to operate the choke. (sticks open so owner has the rod disconnected and flap taped open. Small amount of oil pooling in one spot on top of intake manifold...could it be from driving with carb flap open? Owner says yes)
-Combined Emissions Control label in missing on the solenoid. It is off the car in a folder.
-The intake manifold and cylinder head has added engine orange paint. This is not typical factory production.
-The hold down bolt for the shielding support bracket has engine orange paint not typical factory production.
-The exhaust manifolds has a grey coating not typical factory production. They have damage of pot marks from previous rusting.
Alternator part number 1100950
42 amp
12 v neg
1 L 22 date code
1 = year 1971
L = month November
This is built after the car was built in May.
-The clutch fan not typical factory production style.
-The radiator cap is a current General Motors service replacement style.
-The radiator rubber air dams rubber seals are missing and torn.
-The heater hose clamps are not typical factory production style.
-The front shock absorber top washer in not typical factory production.
-The front dust shield are damaged with a hole from the shock absorber shaft.
-The brake master cylinder is not typical factory production.
-The wiper door canister is painted gold not typical factory production
-The wiper door stop bracket is painted black should be natural steel not painted.
-The hood support bracket missing long bracket on rain gutter under bolt .
Chassis:
-Head lamp actuators have dull old plating.
-Oil filter not typical factory production.
-The exhaust system is not typical factory production larger size and material 100 % deduct.
-Shock absorber front and rear paint is not typical factory production.
-The front and rear suspension components are painted black this not typical factory production.
-The under body is painted black this is not typical factory production
-The frame had damage on the front cross member under the engine.
-The rear axle code: AC W 141 E
AC = 4.11 to 1 positraction
W = Warren Assembly Plant
14 = 14th day
1= year 1971
E = Eaton gear manufacture
-The factory documentation is from gas tank build sheet.
It is in a folder for safe keeping.
The overall condition of this Corvette for judging as listed would score a second flight level.
The car is in good sound condition and cosmetic needs to restore back to appear like new.
The above is directly from the NCRS Judges inspection report.
-Damage of a 1/8” diameter size hole on the driver side above the String Ray front fender emblem.(3 piece replacement nose at some point and on one side there is a bit of mounting hole exposed at Stingray emblem)
-Front bumper is has been replaced the fit on the passenger side stick out too far from the body.
-Windshield has been replaced with Pilkington brand not typical factory production 90% deduction.(appears to be from late 70's)
-Rear window has been damage by a sander scratch mask on the bottom edge. (scratches, not major)
-Rocker moldings are missing hard ware in the front attachment both sides.(simple to add screw back)
-The passenger door has added outside mirror not original to factory build.
-The front fender louver on the driver side is loose needs hardware to install to body.(simple to add screw back or tighten)
-The car has 2 sets of tires and wheels. For street driving has chromed rally wheel with larger size radial tires The show tires are correct size but configuration is not nylon cord they are super belt 30% deduction.
-The drive seat has been damaged showing poor repair in the lower seat back. (1/2" repair from hole wearing through, not major)
-The door panels are reproduction and the door pulls are a different shade of color match.
-The front doors jams are not black out painting is not typical production pattern.
-The door weather stripping has damage on the top edges both passenger and driver sides.(new rubber but appears to have been shaved a bit to fit better on door close)
-The door jambs paint is not the typical factory finish too shinny.
-The blue Vehicle Certification Label is not installed on the drives door. It was removed before repainting the car and has it in a folder for safe keeping.
-The rear storage compartment battery door is removed needs to be reinstalled.
-The battery is Delco currant type replacement 50% deduction.
Mechanical
Engine assembly date V0602 CGZ
V = Flint engine plant
06 = May
02 = 2nd day
CGZ = 330 HP 350 CI Corvette 1971 LT-1 engine manual transmission
Cylinder case part number 3970010
Casting date E 1 1
E = May
1 = 1st day
1 = year 1971
-Air cleaner filter not typical factory brand 100% deduction
-The wing nut to hold down air cleaner to carburetor to stud is missing.
Carburetor type Holley
Part number 3989021
Date code 1 1 2
1 = year 1971
2 = month February
2 = week of the month
-The choke rod in not attached to operate the choke. (sticks open so owner has the rod disconnected and flap taped open. Small amount of oil pooling in one spot on top of intake manifold...could it be from driving with carb flap open? Owner says yes)
-Combined Emissions Control label in missing on the solenoid. It is off the car in a folder.
-The intake manifold and cylinder head has added engine orange paint. This is not typical factory production.
-The hold down bolt for the shielding support bracket has engine orange paint not typical factory production.
-The exhaust manifolds has a grey coating not typical factory production. They have damage of pot marks from previous rusting.
Alternator part number 1100950
42 amp
12 v neg
1 L 22 date code
1 = year 1971
L = month November
This is built after the car was built in May.
-The clutch fan not typical factory production style.
-The radiator cap is a current General Motors service replacement style.
-The radiator rubber air dams rubber seals are missing and torn.
-The heater hose clamps are not typical factory production style.
-The front shock absorber top washer in not typical factory production.
-The front dust shield are damaged with a hole from the shock absorber shaft.
-The brake master cylinder is not typical factory production.
-The wiper door canister is painted gold not typical factory production
-The wiper door stop bracket is painted black should be natural steel not painted.
-The hood support bracket missing long bracket on rain gutter under bolt .
Chassis:
-Head lamp actuators have dull old plating.
-Oil filter not typical factory production.
-The exhaust system is not typical factory production larger size and material 100 % deduct.
-Shock absorber front and rear paint is not typical factory production.
-The front and rear suspension components are painted black this not typical factory production.
-The under body is painted black this is not typical factory production
-The frame had damage on the front cross member under the engine.
-The rear axle code: AC W 141 E
AC = 4.11 to 1 positraction
W = Warren Assembly Plant
14 = 14th day
1= year 1971
E = Eaton gear manufacture
-The factory documentation is from gas tank build sheet.
It is in a folder for safe keeping.
The overall condition of this Corvette for judging as listed would score a second flight level.
The car is in good sound condition and cosmetic needs to restore back to appear like new.
The above is directly from the NCRS Judges inspection report.
01-12-2012, 08:44 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi T...,
It looks like a nice car to me.
The list is quite long & detailed. Many of the items wouldn't mean much to someone not interested in having the car Flight Judged.
To some one interested in having it Flight Judged it appears to me that the many of items are things that need a bit of "detail attention". If you do this yourself, we're talking about time and some $. If you're going to pay someone to go through the list, we're talking time and more $$$.
There are some things that may take $$$ to address...such as finding some nylon cord tires.... BUT, YOU may find NO need to do that.
That brings me to my question for you... what is your goal for this car?
And do you like it?
The choke issue is something that needs to be sorted out, but I don't think is cause for alarm.
I see a small pool of oil on many intakes; it would be good to know where it's coming from and how deep it gets.
Regards,
Alan
It appears the clear paint on the body is over the pin stripe too.
It looks like a nice car to me.
The list is quite long & detailed. Many of the items wouldn't mean much to someone not interested in having the car Flight Judged.
To some one interested in having it Flight Judged it appears to me that the many of items are things that need a bit of "detail attention". If you do this yourself, we're talking about time and some $. If you're going to pay someone to go through the list, we're talking time and more $$$.
There are some things that may take $$$ to address...such as finding some nylon cord tires.... BUT, YOU may find NO need to do that.
That brings me to my question for you... what is your goal for this car?
And do you like it?
The choke issue is something that needs to be sorted out, but I don't think is cause for alarm.
I see a small pool of oil on many intakes; it would be good to know where it's coming from and how deep it gets.
Regards,
Alan
It appears the clear paint on the body is over the pin stripe too.
Last edited by Alan 71; 01-12-2012 at 01:47 PM.
01-12-2012, 09:52 AM
#3
Race Director
I agree with Alan,
Is your plan for a toy to take out on "Sunday drives" and maybe enter the occasional parking lot show, or do you plan on having it Flight judged?
If your just looking for a toy, then it's probably a good choice. If your thinking NCRS, then there is a lot more to consider.
A lot of the things noted are easy to fix, but the dollars can add up quickly. The fit of the front bumper is common problem with one of the repros on the market, to replace it your looking at about $400. A correct dated LOF windshield is about $350 and so is a complete new correct exhaust system. You can buy just one section of a seat cover set (such as the seat back cover) for about $100. With just those items, your looking at a quick $1,200, and that doesn't include the cost of freight or installation.
An old set of correct original nylon belt tires, will gain you a couple extra points, but they're just for show. 30-40 year old tires, aren't safe to use on the highway.
The things that are going to get expensive, if you go after a Top Flight, are the paint and undercarriage detailing. Because of the passenger side mirror, the miss-placed hole in the fender, the clear over the striping, and other issues mentioned, the car may need to be painted. You can easily have $8,000-$10,000 (or more!) in an NCRS level paint job.
Of course, all of this is dependent on if the price is fair, and is an amount that your comfortable with spending for the car.
I not trying to talk you out of it, as it looks like a decent car. It's hard to beat an LT-1, and I think it could be a fun car to own, and one you would be proud of. Nothing I saw in the inspection report should be a deal breaker. If your thinking about going after a Top Flight though, with the chassis detailing and paint work needed, you may end up doing a lot more restoration work, than you expected.
If the info in the inspection report is correct, then I agree with the inspector. As it stands now, it sounds like this car would receive a Second Flight.
If your just looking for a toy, then it's probably a good choice. If your thinking NCRS, then there is a lot more to consider.
A lot of the things noted are easy to fix, but the dollars can add up quickly. The fit of the front bumper is common problem with one of the repros on the market, to replace it your looking at about $400. A correct dated LOF windshield is about $350 and so is a complete new correct exhaust system. You can buy just one section of a seat cover set (such as the seat back cover) for about $100. With just those items, your looking at a quick $1,200, and that doesn't include the cost of freight or installation.
An old set of correct original nylon belt tires, will gain you a couple extra points, but they're just for show. 30-40 year old tires, aren't safe to use on the highway.
The things that are going to get expensive, if you go after a Top Flight, are the paint and undercarriage detailing. Because of the passenger side mirror, the miss-placed hole in the fender, the clear over the striping, and other issues mentioned, the car may need to be painted. You can easily have $8,000-$10,000 (or more!) in an NCRS level paint job.
Of course, all of this is dependent on if the price is fair, and is an amount that your comfortable with spending for the car.
I not trying to talk you out of it, as it looks like a decent car. It's hard to beat an LT-1, and I think it could be a fun car to own, and one you would be proud of. Nothing I saw in the inspection report should be a deal breaker. If your thinking about going after a Top Flight though, with the chassis detailing and paint work needed, you may end up doing a lot more restoration work, than you expected.
If the info in the inspection report is correct, then I agree with the inspector. As it stands now, it sounds like this car would receive a Second Flight.
01-12-2012, 10:50 AM
#4
As the other guys have said, the issues are all pretty much chicken sh*t unless you're going for any sort of judging award. The report does NOT express an opinion as to whether the stamp pad is thought to be a factory original. If you're thinking of paying original engine money, I'd want absolute clarity on this point.
The choke discussion confuses me. I don't understand how a disconnected choke can deposit oil on the manifold.
The choke discussion confuses me. I don't understand how a disconnected choke can deposit oil on the manifold.
01-12-2012, 10:59 AM
#5
The choke being disconnected wont deposit oil. The breather tube coming from the valve cover to the air cleaner could if the engine has excessive crankcase pressure from blowby or a bad PCV. The other source is the intake bolts go into the head and if they are loose or have no sealant oil could weep up the thread and end on the intake. The other possibiltiy is that it's not oil but gasoline that has dripped from the throttle shafts onto the manifold and left a residue.
01-12-2012, 11:03 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
As the other guys have said, the issues are all pretty much chicken sh*t unless you're going for any sort of judging award. The report does NOT express an opinion as to whether the stamp pad is thought to be a factory original. If you're thinking of paying original engine money, I'd want absolute clarity on this point.
The choke discussion confuses me. I don't understand how a disconnected choke can deposit oil on the manifold.
The choke discussion confuses me. I don't understand how a disconnected choke can deposit oil on the manifold.
01-12-2012, 11:10 AM
#7
Team Owner
Looks like a nice car that a PO had restored to a high level...and that the most recent owner has used as a "driver" car. It would be a good candidate for someone who wants to preserve the car and bring it back to Top Flite status.
If your intent is to use it as a driver vehicle, my opinion is that you will be paying too much for a driver...with 'originality' that is not needed; and the car will suffer wear 'n tear from use rather quickly.
So, you have to be the judge on what you want and why...but it is still a very nice car, in good condition, and with good credentials.
P.S. I'm surprised that your 'inspector' didn't comment on the 2-stage paint job on the car. Not original type of paint job or paint quality at all! But, NCRS will overlook the obvious, but dock you on the dealer installed mirror....
If your intent is to use it as a driver vehicle, my opinion is that you will be paying too much for a driver...with 'originality' that is not needed; and the car will suffer wear 'n tear from use rather quickly.
So, you have to be the judge on what you want and why...but it is still a very nice car, in good condition, and with good credentials.
P.S. I'm surprised that your 'inspector' didn't comment on the 2-stage paint job on the car. Not original type of paint job or paint quality at all! But, NCRS will overlook the obvious, but dock you on the dealer installed mirror....
Last edited by 7T1vette; 01-12-2012 at 11:13 AM.
01-12-2012, 11:10 AM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Guys, thanks so much for the replies thus far. I will answer a few of the questions.
-I do want and do plan of getting into a car that can be flight judged. i know any car can be flight judged, but i want one with Top Flight potential without alot of work.
-I do not plan on doing any paint work as it is a new paint job form about 8 years ago. I would plan on repairing the chips low on the front valence only to match if it could be done successfully. Is it a major deduction for the paint over the stripes?
-Engine #'s have been verified and all color codes match.
I may be able to get for well below market which is the only way i would jump on this car. I would plan on detailing up as it is quite dirty now. I have been in contact much with the previous owner from just 3 years ago who had the car in pristine condition so i have a better sense of the cars future glory based on his photos and discussions. I would detail up, fix a few items, and go for a regional judging event to get an actual NCRS baseline. Second Flight would not be my goal, but for the amount of money I plan on for the car, I'd be OK with that before the tweaking begins. The car was professionally restored by a Northeast NCRS guy by his Chevy dealership under his direction in 2005 to NCRS levels it was said. I think it has enough SOLID foundation to take a chance.
Keep the feedback coming!
Thanks.
-I do want and do plan of getting into a car that can be flight judged. i know any car can be flight judged, but i want one with Top Flight potential without alot of work.
-I do not plan on doing any paint work as it is a new paint job form about 8 years ago. I would plan on repairing the chips low on the front valence only to match if it could be done successfully. Is it a major deduction for the paint over the stripes?
-Engine #'s have been verified and all color codes match.
I may be able to get for well below market which is the only way i would jump on this car. I would plan on detailing up as it is quite dirty now. I have been in contact much with the previous owner from just 3 years ago who had the car in pristine condition so i have a better sense of the cars future glory based on his photos and discussions. I would detail up, fix a few items, and go for a regional judging event to get an actual NCRS baseline. Second Flight would not be my goal, but for the amount of money I plan on for the car, I'd be OK with that before the tweaking begins. The car was professionally restored by a Northeast NCRS guy by his Chevy dealership under his direction in 2005 to NCRS levels it was said. I think it has enough SOLID foundation to take a chance.
Keep the feedback coming!
Thanks.
01-12-2012, 11:16 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Looks like a nice car that a PO had restored to a high level...and that the most recent owner has used as a "driver" car. It would be a good candidate for someone who wants to preserve the car and bring it back to Top Flite status.
If your intent is to use it as a driver vehicle, my opinion is that you will be paying too much for a driver...with 'originality' that is not needed; and the car will suffer wear 'n tear from use rather quickly.
So, you have to be the judge on what you want and why...but it is still a very nice car, in good condition, and with good credentials.
If your intent is to use it as a driver vehicle, my opinion is that you will be paying too much for a driver...with 'originality' that is not needed; and the car will suffer wear 'n tear from use rather quickly.
So, you have to be the judge on what you want and why...but it is still a very nice car, in good condition, and with good credentials.
01-12-2012, 11:25 AM
#10
Race Director
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I agree with most of what has been stated. The only thing that jumped out at me was the damage to the frame on the front end. Maybe minor from improper jacking?
Looks like a high quality car, that if purchased at the right price, would leave you plenty of wiggle room to bring it to Top Flight status. Alot of what I read would be easily corrected. Much of it consisted of incorrect paint in some areas.
Good luck
Looks like a high quality car, that if purchased at the right price, would leave you plenty of wiggle room to bring it to Top Flight status. Alot of what I read would be easily corrected. Much of it consisted of incorrect paint in some areas.
Good luck
01-12-2012, 11:31 AM
#11
If you're set on Top Flight, this is the wrong car. Costs to get it 'cosmetically correct' would be excessive. The paint, being an obvious and glaring complete deduct, would kill the deal right there.
A quick glance at the judging flow chart for paint bares this out with two successive NO answers. If you're sure what I'm alluding to, best join NCRS to find out.
A quick glance at the judging flow chart for paint bares this out with two successive NO answers. If you're sure what I'm alluding to, best join NCRS to find out.
01-12-2012, 11:37 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
As has been said here before, ultimately an item is worth whatever somebody is actually willing to pay for it. Don't know what the seller is asking for the car. If the entire paint job is as good as the photos seem to indicate I would have a difficult time justifying stripping it off and repainting the car just so I could put the stripes on the right side of the clearcoat. Typically an NCRS Top Flight-level car would be a body-off where every last detail was made absolutely correct during the restoration, and clearly that wasn't done here. Judging also by the kinds of replacement parts that have found their way onto the car PO's weren't really interested (or likely couldn't afford) in using the best available pieces. Overall it looks and sounds like a pretty decent car that could be a nice acquisition if you're looking for a good driver-quality LT1, assuming the price is right. To get it to concours level would probably take upwards of $20,000 or even more if you paid for the work. If you're looking to buy a show car 'out of the box' you should probably keep looking...
01-12-2012, 11:39 AM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
I agree with most of what has been stated. The only thing that jumped out at me was the damage to the frame on the front end. Maybe minor from improper jacking?
Looks like a high quality car, that if purchased at the right price, would leave you plenty of wiggle room to bring it to Top Flight status. Alot of what I read would be easily corrected. Much of it consisted of incorrect paint in some areas.
Good luck
Looks like a high quality car, that if purchased at the right price, would leave you plenty of wiggle room to bring it to Top Flight status. Alot of what I read would be easily corrected. Much of it consisted of incorrect paint in some areas.
Good luck
01-12-2012, 12:49 PM
#14
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V0602 would be June 2nd, not May.
Last edited by Easy Mike; 01-12-2012 at 12:59 PM.
01-12-2012, 01:30 PM
#15
Race Director
There are also Chapter shows held outside DC and on Long Island, each year.
The location of NCRS Regional shows, varies each year (except the winter regional, which is in Kissimmee every Jan.). The Central Jersey Chapter hosted a Regional in Wildwood last May. For 2012, the only Regional in the Northeast, will be in Altoona Pa in September.
Good catch! There was so much to read there, that I never bothered to look at the numbers closely.
A block casting date of May 1, 71 (E-1-1), and an engine assembly date of June 2, 71, though not impossible, does seem out of the norm.
I wonder if the V0602 is a typo in the report or the post?
01-12-2012, 02:02 PM
#16
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Hi T....,
Based on your reply as to "what are your plans for the car
?" I think it would be a good idea to have someone go through the "list" with you to talk about what's involved in getting the car to achieve a Regional (since you mention it) Top Flight Award, item by item.
That way you could determine if it's financially viable based upon what you pay for the car and would additionally want to put in to it.
I see a lot of minor deductions, and a few more major.
I learned something this past October when I had my 71 Flight Judged for the first time.... I started out thinking I'd be happy as long as it earned a Top Flight Award; but then I started thinking, "Boy! a 97% would be nice, then a Duntov Award might be in it's future"; then "what would it take to earn a 98%, and then, "could it ever be a 99% car"?
It's sorta like horsepower... a bit more is always nice.
Regards,
Alan
Based on your reply as to "what are your plans for the car
?" I think it would be a good idea to have someone go through the "list" with you to talk about what's involved in getting the car to achieve a Regional (since you mention it) Top Flight Award, item by item.
That way you could determine if it's financially viable based upon what you pay for the car and would additionally want to put in to it.
I see a lot of minor deductions, and a few more major.
I learned something this past October when I had my 71 Flight Judged for the first time.... I started out thinking I'd be happy as long as it earned a Top Flight Award; but then I started thinking, "Boy! a 97% would be nice, then a Duntov Award might be in it's future"; then "what would it take to earn a 98%, and then, "could it ever be a 99% car"?
It's sorta like horsepower... a bit more is always nice.
Regards,
Alan
01-12-2012, 08:11 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
I take on a few of the items for Top Flite and there was a recent thread on the NCRS Tech Discussion Board that you can Top Flite without a body off type restoration. Not easy but others have done it.
You CAN also Top Flite with a 100% Paint Deduction. There was another thread on the NCRS TDB discussing this as well.
There are very creative ways to dull down down the jambs to get some of the paint points. Again discussed on NCRS website.
To me the tires are Bull crap since no one in there right mind could drive on original tires. Really nice repro Goodyear Speedway tires are available and will get most of the tire points.
Let me state up front that all those little parts that will needed for Top Flite Judging can add up. The Radiator cap alone can be from $125-$300. I did not see anything said about the Distributor Cap, Plug Wires, Ball Joints, U- Joints etc...
If you buy the car right and it is what you want go for it. An LT-1 is a great vette.
While my 70 L46 may never Top Flite it has been a great experience learning what is truly original and what is not correct. Finding correct original parts is part of the fun too.
Bill
You CAN also Top Flite with a 100% Paint Deduction. There was another thread on the NCRS TDB discussing this as well.
There are very creative ways to dull down down the jambs to get some of the paint points. Again discussed on NCRS website.
To me the tires are Bull crap since no one in there right mind could drive on original tires. Really nice repro Goodyear Speedway tires are available and will get most of the tire points.
Let me state up front that all those little parts that will needed for Top Flite Judging can add up. The Radiator cap alone can be from $125-$300. I did not see anything said about the Distributor Cap, Plug Wires, Ball Joints, U- Joints etc...
If you buy the car right and it is what you want go for it. An LT-1 is a great vette.
While my 70 L46 may never Top Flite it has been a great experience learning what is truly original and what is not correct. Finding correct original parts is part of the fun too.
Bill
01-12-2012, 09:19 PM
#18
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TSAGG
Can you confirm the motor pad assembly date? As another member has stated, the 06 is June not May, and another member states not impossible that the bare block sat for a month before Flint assembled the finished motor. But the car was assembled in May, therefore the 0602 date code on the pad should read 0502, or assembled the following day after casting. And if it is 0502, I would like to know if GM allowed the raw castings to cure for more than 24 hours before assembling. My motor was cast 08-14 and assembled 08-19
Also, can you share the transmission type M20 or M21?
And the sequence # portion of the VIN, if you rather not share , I would suggest that you compare that with the May assembly date.
Lastly, you sent me a note on my car that I have for sale, and I could tell right a way, that the car you want is not mine.
You may be chasing a tough standard based on the extrem details you are listing that you are focusing on.
I would not think you will need advice on something like a missing wing nut or wrong airfilter, worry about the big stuff.
But if you want a turn key Top Flight documented LT-1, then in my estimation, you are in the high 40k starting range, and some of these cars may even be closer to mid to high 50k range.
If you find a 70 LT-1, the add some more $$$$
Then ask yourself, would you really want to drive a 50k LT-1 to a local parking lot car show, where anybody and their kids may stop and look and use less than proper care while looking at it.
Good Luck, hope you find what you looking for.
David
Can you confirm the motor pad assembly date? As another member has stated, the 06 is June not May, and another member states not impossible that the bare block sat for a month before Flint assembled the finished motor. But the car was assembled in May, therefore the 0602 date code on the pad should read 0502, or assembled the following day after casting. And if it is 0502, I would like to know if GM allowed the raw castings to cure for more than 24 hours before assembling. My motor was cast 08-14 and assembled 08-19
Also, can you share the transmission type M20 or M21?
And the sequence # portion of the VIN, if you rather not share , I would suggest that you compare that with the May assembly date.
Lastly, you sent me a note on my car that I have for sale, and I could tell right a way, that the car you want is not mine.
You may be chasing a tough standard based on the extrem details you are listing that you are focusing on.
I would not think you will need advice on something like a missing wing nut or wrong airfilter, worry about the big stuff.
But if you want a turn key Top Flight documented LT-1, then in my estimation, you are in the high 40k starting range, and some of these cars may even be closer to mid to high 50k range.
If you find a 70 LT-1, the add some more $$$$
Then ask yourself, would you really want to drive a 50k LT-1 to a local parking lot car show, where anybody and their kids may stop and look and use less than proper care while looking at it.
Good Luck, hope you find what you looking for.
David
01-13-2012, 11:21 AM
#19
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June 2 works. Give the engine a week or so to get shipped to St. Louis and stock piled and assembly would have begun shortly thereafter. I'd bet the farm on a Time/Build code in the K14-K18 week.
01-13-2012, 11:38 AM
#20
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[QUOTE=Easy Mike;1579724865]Can't be May, gents. May 2, 1971 was a Sunday.
June 2 works. Give the engine a week or so to get shipped to St. Louis and stock piled and assembly would have begun shortly thereafter. I'd bet the farm on a Time/Build code in the K14-K18 week.
[/QUOT
EASY MIKE
Thanks for the note, I was not aware that no work was done on Sundays.
As for the assumption that the motor pad may be a June date, which is what was wrote above, that becomes an issue, inthat below the Alternator date above it is stated the car was assembled in May.
That is why I was asking if he would share the VIN sequence #.
All may be well with the car, but there seems to be a date error somewhere.
David
June 2 works. Give the engine a week or so to get shipped to St. Louis and stock piled and assembly would have begun shortly thereafter. I'd bet the farm on a Time/Build code in the K14-K18 week.
[/QUOT EASY MIKE
Thanks for the note, I was not aware that no work was done on Sundays.
As for the assumption that the motor pad may be a June date, which is what was wrote above, that becomes an issue, inthat below the Alternator date above it is stated the car was assembled in May.
That is why I was asking if he would share the VIN sequence #.
All may be well with the car, but there seems to be a date error somewhere.
David