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Got my kit a couple of days ago. I'll be doing the swap in the coming weeks. Can't wait to feel the difference! Should help me improve my autocross times!
I've heard of these but don't know much about them. They are direct bolt ins that will give you a better steering ratio and no leaks right? With that better gear ratio does it make the steering easier to turn? Mine is a little harder than it should be but I need an alignment and hope that will fix it. If not and this will I might be doing one of these upgrades too.
I've heard of these but don't know much about them. They are direct bolt ins that will give you a better steering ratio and no leaks right? With that better gear ratio does it make the steering easier to turn? Mine is a little harder than it should be but I need an alignment and hope that will fix it. If not and this will I might be doing one of these upgrades too.
Not sure if you've seen my thread on the Borgeson box, here it is, it should answer some of your questions:
Completed the install and thought I'd post a few pics. A few comments:
1. The job was tougher than I thought it would be.
2. The old parts came out OK but the new ones were a bit of a struggle.
3. The column collapsed easily but I went about 1/2" too far. It isn't too hard to get it back out.
4. The Borgenson box is larger in the "head" than the stock unit making it a tighter squeeze with the Hooker Comp side exhaust.
5. I didn't remove any exhaust (PIA) so I worked around it (PIA!).
6. Had to re-adjust the clutch as the linkage ran into the steering box.
Now, it is time to get an alignment!! Should work great!!!!!!!
6. Had to re-adjust the clutch as the linkage ran into the steering box.
That's the first I've seen or heard of an issue with the clutch z-bar and the Borgenson box. What year is the car and just how much interference did you have?
That's the first I've seen or heard of an issue with the clutch z-bar and the Borgenson box. What year is the car and just how much interference did you have?
Check his first picture. It looks like the clutch linkage is not stock! That could account for the interference. I didn't have that issue at all with my stock clutch linkage.
The clutch linkage is not stock - a Speed Direct replacement. I adjusted the top shaft all the way short and lengthened the bottom shaft.
The threads don't come quite as far thru the nut/washer as the stock unit but it is close. I figured I would re-check after driving for a few miles to be sure the nut is secure. It should be - I torqued on it with my breaker bar quite hard several times.
Looks good Gary...
Also looks tight with the header tube. I would like to have this, but I think I am S.O.L. with a BB. I had to ding the holy hell out of my header tube to get it past the stock steering box.
Try the at home alignment and steering wheel center job, its not that difficult. It is a PIA, but do able.
I've got it on my car with 2-1/8" Hookers and exhaust ports raised .600". Fit pretty nice overall. I did need to use their u-joint instead of the rag joint to clear the #7 header tube but no biggee. I did an article in Corvette Enthusiast on it.
Now that I've driven the car and gotten an alignment I feel a vibration. I'll be re-checking all of the fasteners, including the pitman arm. I spec'd -1 degree on my camber as I want to hit the corners as hard as I can with as much rubber making contact with the pavement.
427Hotrod - I like the u-joint. I may switch to it just so it looks better.
Completed the install and thought I'd post a few pics. A few comments:
3. The column collapsed easily but I went about 1/2" too far. It isn't too hard to get it back out.
This comment worries me-
How did you collapse the column?!
The only way I could see doing that is if you sheared the plastic pins in the shaft to telescope the shaft inward.
This is a safety feature to allow the column to collapse in the event of an accident so that the column doesn't skewer you in a head on.
427Hotrod - I like the u-joint. I may switch to it just so it looks better.
Thx, Gary[/QUOTE]
Gary,
Remember this: The Corvette body is attached to the separate chassis with rubber mounts and there can be movement between the two. This potential movement is why GM used a rag joint in the first place. A uni joint will not allow for any movement here and you could well have alignment issues if you went this way. This would cause excessive wear on the lower steering column bearing, the steering box itself, etc.
This comment worries me-
How did you collapse the column?!
The only way I could see doing that is if you sheared the plastic pins in the shaft to telescope the shaft inward.
This is a safety feature to allow the column to collapse in the event of an accident so that the column doesn't skewer you in a head on.
Is this what Borgeson instructs customers to do?
Elm
Elm,
Yes, the shaft (and column) is designed to collapse in a frontal collision to protect the driver, but there is nothing unsafe going on here. The plastic pins were inserted in order to keep the shaft at a finite length for ease of assembly on the production line.
Shearing them will not affect the shaft's ability to collapse and will not compromise the car's safety in any way. Two inches of "collapse" will only give more contact between the inner and outer steering shafts which could be considered safer than stock.
Granted, there is about two inches less of "collapsibility", but there is still plenty left. Don't worry about it.
To collapse the column, just place a lump of hardwood or aluminum over the splined end and hit it with a big hammer. You might want to place some Vise Grips on the shaft about two inches down from the bearing so that it won't collapse too far if you overhit it.