Several novice engine questions
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 29
From: The Netherlands
Several novice engine questions
Though the 383 assembly is going well (I think), I'm running into some minor things which I could use some help/advice for. They probably are very novice questions, but that's what I am and since there might be some expensive mistakes lurking around the corner... Here goes 
- Using a '80-'85 truck block; does anyone know oil pressure and water temp sensor are a 1:1 transfer?
- Is it wise to mount these sensors before the engine goes in? I want to fill up and prime the block before the intake goes on, but that will get messy if I have to install a sensor afterwards.
- Same question for the starter, waterpump, fuelpump, etc. I'd say yes, but I've been wrong before...
- With sidepipes, what oil filter fits a 383 with Melling HV pump and 7q. oil pan best? ACDelco PF1218, K&N, Wix?
- With the 7q. oil pan how do I best determine proper level on the dipstick? Is 7q. + oil filter capacity the required amount?
- I have a new flywheel and a new convertor; (best) order of installation?
- Paint: I'm about to paint the block with hi-temp VHT. It states it needs to be baked at 160C after an hour of drying. Does anyone do this? Or just paint and let it bake when first starting the engine?
Thanks in advance!
- Using a '80-'85 truck block; does anyone know oil pressure and water temp sensor are a 1:1 transfer?
- Is it wise to mount these sensors before the engine goes in? I want to fill up and prime the block before the intake goes on, but that will get messy if I have to install a sensor afterwards.
- Same question for the starter, waterpump, fuelpump, etc. I'd say yes, but I've been wrong before...
- With sidepipes, what oil filter fits a 383 with Melling HV pump and 7q. oil pan best? ACDelco PF1218, K&N, Wix?
- With the 7q. oil pan how do I best determine proper level on the dipstick? Is 7q. + oil filter capacity the required amount?
- I have a new flywheel and a new convertor; (best) order of installation?
- Paint: I'm about to paint the block with hi-temp VHT. It states it needs to be baked at 160C after an hour of drying. Does anyone do this? Or just paint and let it bake when first starting the engine?
Thanks in advance!
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
Okay, I'll take a run at this.
You also want to familiarize yourself with the correct equipment for priming the lube system. You can use just a pump drive shaft, but you will not build proper pressure without the dist housing in place. The best oil pump drive system is an old dist with the teeth ground off the gear and the upper end disassembled so that you can chuck a drill on it.
Steve g
Though the 383 assembly is going well (I think), I'm running into some minor things which I could use some help/advice for. They probably are very novice questions, but that's what I am and since there might be some expensive mistakes lurking around the corner... Here goes
- Using a '80-'85 truck block; does anyone know oil pressure and water temp sensor are a 1:1 transfer?Temp sensors will mount in the head or intake so the block you are using doesn't matter. Almost all engines use the same thread for oil pressure switches, 1/8" pipe thread, so there will no problem with that either.
- Is it wise to mount these sensors before the engine goes in? I want to fill up and prime the block before the intake goes on, but that will get messy if I have to install a sensor afterwards.I normally install my shop test gauge into the oil pressure sensor hole for the system priming so that I can actually see that I have oil pressure and how much. I install the sending unit (if applicable, meaning an electric gauge and not a mechanical dash gauge) afterwards
- Same question for the starter, waterpump, fuelpump, etc. I'd say yes, but I've been wrong before...
I install absolutely everything I can before install. To make the job simplest and easiest what you want to do is replicate the way the car is assembled at the factory. That is the way they are designed to go together and carefull thought is given as to access of fasteners etc. I actually like to unplug the engine wiring harness from the firewall and do all the engine end connections with the engine out then simply plug the harness back into the firewall when it's in the car. Same with heater hoses, rad hoses etc. If they are awkward to get at on the engine end I will install them to the engine before and connect the other end when the engine is in. Most relevant on air conditioned cars. Starter always goes on before the exhaust manifolds and when you're doing that you will see why I like to connect the wiring at that point. Fuel pump in, dist in and timed, fuel lines run, carb on, ignition wires on, everything but the aircleaner.
- With sidepipes, what oil filter fits a 383 with Melling HV pump and 7q. oil pan best? ACDelco PF1218, K&N, Wix? Can't help with that
- With the 7q. oil pan how do I best determine proper level on the dipstick? Is 7q. + oil filter capacity the required amount?You should ask that question of the pan manufacturer. Anybody's guess. But I would say that if you are unable to find that out I would go with 7 qts total. I would rather be 1/2 qt away from the spinning crank knowing I have a reserve of 7 than risk having the crank hitting the oil. Doesn't the pan manufacturer sell a stick and tube for his pan?
- I have a new flywheel and a new convertor; (best) order of installation? There is only one order of installation. Flexplate (you don't have a flywheel) is bolted to the crank and the converter is fitted onto the frt of the trans. Once the trans is bolted to the engine the converter is slid up to the flex plate and bolted up. If you have never installed a converter you need to know that there are two sets of splines and one set of drive lugs to engage. Failure to have the converter properly seated at installation will take the pump out of the trans in a matter of minutes.
- Paint: I'm about to paint the block with hi-temp VHT. It states it needs to be baked at 160C after an hour of drying. Does anyone do this? Or just paint and let it bake when first starting the engine?Don't know how you would, but first run up will bake it.
Thanks in advance!
- Using a '80-'85 truck block; does anyone know oil pressure and water temp sensor are a 1:1 transfer?Temp sensors will mount in the head or intake so the block you are using doesn't matter. Almost all engines use the same thread for oil pressure switches, 1/8" pipe thread, so there will no problem with that either.
- Is it wise to mount these sensors before the engine goes in? I want to fill up and prime the block before the intake goes on, but that will get messy if I have to install a sensor afterwards.I normally install my shop test gauge into the oil pressure sensor hole for the system priming so that I can actually see that I have oil pressure and how much. I install the sending unit (if applicable, meaning an electric gauge and not a mechanical dash gauge) afterwards
- Same question for the starter, waterpump, fuelpump, etc. I'd say yes, but I've been wrong before...
I install absolutely everything I can before install. To make the job simplest and easiest what you want to do is replicate the way the car is assembled at the factory. That is the way they are designed to go together and carefull thought is given as to access of fasteners etc. I actually like to unplug the engine wiring harness from the firewall and do all the engine end connections with the engine out then simply plug the harness back into the firewall when it's in the car. Same with heater hoses, rad hoses etc. If they are awkward to get at on the engine end I will install them to the engine before and connect the other end when the engine is in. Most relevant on air conditioned cars. Starter always goes on before the exhaust manifolds and when you're doing that you will see why I like to connect the wiring at that point. Fuel pump in, dist in and timed, fuel lines run, carb on, ignition wires on, everything but the aircleaner.
- With sidepipes, what oil filter fits a 383 with Melling HV pump and 7q. oil pan best? ACDelco PF1218, K&N, Wix? Can't help with that
- With the 7q. oil pan how do I best determine proper level on the dipstick? Is 7q. + oil filter capacity the required amount?You should ask that question of the pan manufacturer. Anybody's guess. But I would say that if you are unable to find that out I would go with 7 qts total. I would rather be 1/2 qt away from the spinning crank knowing I have a reserve of 7 than risk having the crank hitting the oil. Doesn't the pan manufacturer sell a stick and tube for his pan?
- I have a new flywheel and a new convertor; (best) order of installation? There is only one order of installation. Flexplate (you don't have a flywheel) is bolted to the crank and the converter is fitted onto the frt of the trans. Once the trans is bolted to the engine the converter is slid up to the flex plate and bolted up. If you have never installed a converter you need to know that there are two sets of splines and one set of drive lugs to engage. Failure to have the converter properly seated at installation will take the pump out of the trans in a matter of minutes.
- Paint: I'm about to paint the block with hi-temp VHT. It states it needs to be baked at 160C after an hour of drying. Does anyone do this? Or just paint and let it bake when first starting the engine?Don't know how you would, but first run up will bake it.
Thanks in advance!
You also want to familiarize yourself with the correct equipment for priming the lube system. You can use just a pump drive shaft, but you will not build proper pressure without the dist housing in place. The best oil pump drive system is an old dist with the teeth ground off the gear and the upper end disassembled so that you can chuck a drill on it.
Steve g
Last edited by Steve2147; Jan 17, 2012 at 01:11 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 1
From: New Albany IN
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'06-'08-'09
Oil filter with side pipes should be the standard long one. The side pipes do not interfere with it like normal long tubes would.
As far as baking the paint, I let mine dry until I was ready to start it, then with water temp around 220 degrees, it should be enough to "bake" or "cure" it.
As far as baking the paint, I let mine dry until I was ready to start it, then with water temp around 220 degrees, it should be enough to "bake" or "cure" it.
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
Got to thinking about a couple of other things I do to make my life easier.
Installing the water pump pulley is easier with the engine out, but the fan would be in the way for install. What I do is mount the pulley only with two bolts across from one another then install and tighten all the belts. Once the engine is in remove the two bolts and mount the fan clutch. The belt tension will hold the pulley lined up with the bolt holes in the hub making the fan clutch install easier.
The ps pump is awkward to install afterwards. Connect and tighten the hoses to the pump and mount the pump to the engine. Adjusting the belt is also much easier with the engine out, so I do that and tighten all fasteners.
Little things like this make the job easier, faster and skins fewer knuckles.
Steve g
Installing the water pump pulley is easier with the engine out, but the fan would be in the way for install. What I do is mount the pulley only with two bolts across from one another then install and tighten all the belts. Once the engine is in remove the two bolts and mount the fan clutch. The belt tension will hold the pulley lined up with the bolt holes in the hub making the fan clutch install easier.
The ps pump is awkward to install afterwards. Connect and tighten the hoses to the pump and mount the pump to the engine. Adjusting the belt is also much easier with the engine out, so I do that and tighten all fasteners.
Little things like this make the job easier, faster and skins fewer knuckles.
Steve g
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 29
From: The Netherlands
Thanks all for the great tips! Looks like I need to do some research on how to install a convertor, I certainly do not want to mess up my transmission. (Though that would be a nice excuse for 200r4... 
)
Steve, you're a life saver
)Steve, you're a life saver
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
There's nothing special to installing a convertor. Spin it and wiggle it a bit as you push it in. You should feel it clunk back a couple of times. The most important thing is ensuring it's there. When the trans is bolted to the engine the converter bolt mount faces should be around 1/8" away from the flexplate and the convertor should spin freely. Make sure your flexplate is facing the right way. It should take very little effort to slide the convertor forward against the flexplate.
Another tip, start all the convertor bolts before you tighten any of them. There's a tendency to want to avoid turning the engine over by hand and guys like to put one bolt in and tighten it fully then move on to the next. Lots of times you get to the last one and can't start it because the hole is not lined up close enough (wiggle room on the bolts).
Steve g
