Differential side yoke play?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
My '71 has 130K miles on it. Diff has original bearings, gears and case. But that's because the yokes and posi clutches were replaced before they were trashed.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
So you opened it up and repaired it, and were able to do so at a reletively inexpensive price. How did you know that the posi clutches and yokes were junk? Play in the sideyokes or a leaky seal? A rebuilt posi from Zip is $1200 plus a $400 core charge. It sucks if your core is no good.
Last edited by 63mako; Jan 27, 2012 at 02:44 PM.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
Differential & Trailing Arm Refurb. - '70 w/110k miles
'70 w/~110K miles: Doing a restore on rear suspension & driveline. Looking for advice on diff. refurb. & trailing arm ***'y replacement. Speciffically, on Trailing Arm ***'ys am considering buying complete (less rotors) from Duntov Motors. Would like any feedback on their products. For differential,want to change out the 3.36 with a 3.70 gear set. Planning on replacing clutch pak and side yokes. Thoughts???
PS: Anyone know the depth of the hardened end on '70 side yokes?
Thanks, Bob C.
PS: Anyone know the depth of the hardened end on '70 side yokes?
Thanks, Bob C.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
You'll find more info in a search, but the short version is that I bought $600 worth of parts from them (diff side yokes, strut rods and T/A spindles) and every single part was dangerously inferior.
The spindles twisted (junk steel), the yokes wore their ends 0.055" in a few thousand miles as well as twisted (junk steel + not hardened) and the strut rod bushings disintegrated.
Duntov ignored me when I tried contacting them. So I lost $600 plus all the work to redo both diff and T/A.
Here's what their yoke looked like. Notice the twist in the splines and the end worn down.
The spindles twisted (junk steel), the yokes wore their ends 0.055" in a few thousand miles as well as twisted (junk steel + not hardened) and the strut rod bushings disintegrated.
Duntov ignored me when I tried contacting them. So I lost $600 plus all the work to redo both diff and T/A.
Here's what their yoke looked like. Notice the twist in the splines and the end worn down.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 110
From: Garland Texas
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 110
From: Garland Texas
This is good advice. But you still need to ask specific questions. I know of at least 4 versions of spindles being called "the best you can buy" with only one of them being quality and the others being quite inferior. Zwede paid top money for 2 of the inferior ones. One particular companies' quality has severly gone downhill in the past year. (Not Vansteel)
Mike
Mike
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
resdoggie, Next time I get up there I'll be glad to stop by. But for now I'll be happy with pictures. Jack up the vette with the rear wheels hanging and take a few pictures where the stub axles goes into the diff.
I will do the same showing pictures of bearing races with metal shavings imbedded in them and trash in the pinion bearing cavity.
Mike
I will do the same showing pictures of bearing races with metal shavings imbedded in them and trash in the pinion bearing cavity.
Mike
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 110
From: Garland Texas
Looking at the left pic I would agree with +.200 end play. But the problem is not the stub axle. As far as it is sticking out you have a clutch problem or the snap ring itself. The lip for the seal is still there so there is still metal on the end of the stub axle. Same thing for the lip on the right pic. Are you sure about the .200 end play on that axle? If you would take a couple more pics with the axles loaded.
Mike
Mike
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
tracdogg2, I did a quick measurement with feeler gauges and it was ~0.110" not 0.200-ish as I had previously stated - my bad. The other side is less as you can see from the pics. I will need to get inside the diff at some point soon. I'm not aware of any problems with the clutches. Lays down two even strips and no chatter going around corners. I use two bottles of the posi conditioner when I changed the gear oil 15K miles ago.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hi all,
i know this is an old tread, but i also have a question about how much play is still ok. Yokes and Differential is nearly new, but another workshop mentioned that the play is too much
They didn't meassure it, but i have videos from left and right side. Maybe you can let me know your opinion...
Here the Videos:
FYI: I have a 71 C3 Automatic. And i'm a noob regarding technical stuff ;-)
Thanks a lot in advance!
i know this is an old tread, but i also have a question about how much play is still ok. Yokes and Differential is nearly new, but another workshop mentioned that the play is too much
They didn't meassure it, but i have videos from left and right side. Maybe you can let me know your opinion...
Here the Videos:
- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i4R...ew?usp=sharing
- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RMP...ew?usp=sharing
FYI: I have a 71 C3 Automatic. And i'm a noob regarding technical stuff ;-)
Thanks a lot in advance!
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 440
Likes: 9
From: Chicago
Hi, just ran across your videos of axle end play, did you get a response from people in the know telling you ok or not.
thanks
Frank
Frankgv@yahoo.com
thanks
Frank
Frankgv@yahoo.com
